What the heck? It's less than lunch!

@Destroyer OS: I'm curious about the cap bank, do you think they could be that bad and did something to the current that fried the chip? I started making it when I read your thread in audiocircle and when I used proper caps, it works well. Out of curiosity, I put a new chip in, and ran it with the cap bank. Only played music for 30seconds, then nothing. The heatsink get about as warm as if it had been playing for hours.
Could it be the crappy caps? :$ :$
 
Saw someone having trouble finding a PSU.

I am using a 12v PSU from an XBox 360. Works great as a 12v PSU, plenty of amps and such. There are two versions, one is a higher wattage PSU but I have had no issues with the lower wattage unit. The best part is if you know enough gamers, you know someone with a dead XBox 360 and a PSU collecting dust. Mine was free. Works great on my TPA based amp boards and other projects needing a 12v supply.
 
Excellent thread !

I just received mine two days ago did the mods,running two 4ohm drivers, with a 20v linear supply feeding a buck/boost converter to output 16V, and boy Class AB rocks (no harsh highs like in the Class D stuff).

But, today it stopped working when I touched it (can't recall where). It didn't run warm, it was cold and no sound, so I thought it might be something to do with the mute circuit. I tested the voltage between the mute pin and GND, and bingo it was 0.43v.

Now I couldn't find a reason why it's that low, and then it hit me, I noticed that the two VCC pins 3 and 13 aren't connected in the PCB, so I hacked quick wire to join them, and damn it was running, such a joyous moment.
Now I have no idea why it was working without the VCC pins joined. Maybe a failed part (or maybe I fried the chip's internal VCC pins connexion), I'll do some checking and see what I can find.

Another surprise is that there's no voltage divider for the mute and standby pins, just a 47k resistor to limit current going to the mute standby pins. The 1k resistor is for the LED. And I thought it was for voltage divider.

Here's the one I ordered :
AC/DC 12V TDA7297 Version B 15W Digital Audio Amplifier Board Dual-Channel 2016 | eBay

Images (excuse the low light, photo quality and the messy soldering):

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It looks like you have some cold solder joints. One big DC cap, and maybe some chip pins.

SG to PG is just fine where it's at.

Wires under POT are safely not touching?

That makes perfect sense. I will actually desolder the parts and build another board of the same. Wires under pot are individually shrink wrapped, but I'll recheck just to be sure. Thanks J.
 
It looks like you have some cold solder joints. One big DC cap, and maybe some chip pins.
You were right, moving all the parts into a new board did it. It's now working well, just as it was before. I also ended up using the eBay caps cap bank. At some point I thought it funked up the current, but after some comparison, it gives a little 'air' that I like. Without the caps, it was a bit on the 'dark' side. Thanks so much for taking the time to help me.