Hello friends, has any of you experienced malfunction with eBay chip fed with ~15V? I think mine stopped working after I hooked it up with an SMPS that's supplying 15V. When I turned it on, there is random pop and noise from the speaker, and a little burn smell, also the heatsink got really warm within that 4-5 seconds, warmer than if I had it playing for a day. I let it sit for about an hour and tried again, LED is still on, I can confirm signal and power is coming to the board and polarity is correct, but no sound and the heatsink is dead cold. As if the chip is not working. It may be obvious but is it really the chip that has gone kaput or should I look elsewhere?
Thanks!! ��
Thanks!! ��
So those symptoms, combined with the fact that they are rejects, concluded the chip needs to be replaced? Is there anything else I need to check in the circuit? Thanks.
So it's dead? No protection mode or something that mutes it temporarily? I was wondering.
Also is there a measuring I can do to check if the chip is still working?
https://www.tokopedia.com/suryaelectronics/tda7297
Does that look legit? The packing is different. Thanks so much for your kind assistance.
Come to think about it, it could be this: I made a capacitor bank, one from brand new original Panasonic caps, one from removed caps off eBay boards. All 1000uF/35V. I thought it wouldn't hurt to compare if there is any difference in sound among the two. My SMPS is fairly good, I have been using it for 6 months or so, solid performance, with only few mV of AC in the ouput, so the eBay caps in parallel should help, that was my logic. Could it be 7 of them in parallel messed up the power so bad that it fried the chip?
What I have found with all three of the boards I purchased is varying levels of soldering quality.
Two of them had the electrolytic capacitor so badly soldered that they all but fell out with little effort on my part and the connectors were the same on one board.
Having discovered that I simply resoldered everything, if I'm honest I thought I detected lower noise levels after and as said before none have failed yet.
Two of them had the electrolytic capacitor so badly soldered that they all but fell out with little effort on my part and the connectors were the same on one board.
Having discovered that I simply resoldered everything, if I'm honest I thought I detected lower noise levels after and as said before none have failed yet.
I have bought several of the green boards with larger plain aluminum heatsinks. They have all worked well and seemed decently made - for $5 cannot complain. They work at 19v but mine are extremely hot to touch if using 19v so I use 12v and don't have any problem with that. When using the OS Destroyer PCB though, the regulator is set for about 18v and the thing definitely needs a bigger heatsink. I do not understand why quality level of board would make it run cooler or hotter? Waste heat is simply current x voltage drop. Could some boards have a higher quiescent bias setting?