I tried searching for this in the US based EBay and couldn’t find it..dang
To clarify, I meant I may have had a a bad experience with the same model # board but it was the previous version with the op-amps soldered in place.
The new 3e amp version 2ch 260W
I am really pleased with the sound of this new version; much more spacious sounding right out of the box. I’ve rolled thru OPA 1602, 1612, 1656, 4458 (the cans) and Muses8820. The DAC driving the amp is the AMB.org gamma1+gamma2 (uses the OPA2365 op amp).
My top two are the Muses8820, which gives a beautifully wide soundstage and effortless listening, and the 1656 which is smooth and has wonderful fullness.
Being driven with 3e’s 36V SMPS. I’ve used his old 48V SMPS but it just generated too much heat from the amp, especially in the coils, and my ears couldn’t hear a sound difference.
I am really pleased with the sound of this new version; much more spacious sounding right out of the box. I’ve rolled thru OPA 1602, 1612, 1656, 4458 (the cans) and Muses8820. The DAC driving the amp is the AMB.org gamma1+gamma2 (uses the OPA2365 op amp).
My top two are the Muses8820, which gives a beautifully wide soundstage and effortless listening, and the 1656 which is smooth and has wonderful fullness.
Being driven with 3e’s 36V SMPS. I’ve used his old 48V SMPS but it just generated too much heat from the amp, especially in the coils, and my ears couldn’t hear a sound difference.
I did another late night impulse buy and ordered from 3E the 2x260w tpa3255 and the 1x480w, and the DSP Board to match.
I'll be testing them as a single 3-way speaker setup - 2 channel amp for mids and highs, single channel for the (sub)woofer driver, using the DSP for crossover / filtering duties.
Power will be a Connex 600w @ 38v smps I have lying around.
Fingers crossed, I'll let you guys know how it goes once it arrives
If this doesn't work out I might go for DrMordor's board with PFFB..
I'll be testing them as a single 3-way speaker setup - 2 channel amp for mids and highs, single channel for the (sub)woofer driver, using the DSP for crossover / filtering duties.
Power will be a Connex 600w @ 38v smps I have lying around.
Fingers crossed, I'll let you guys know how it goes once it arrives
If this doesn't work out I might go for DrMordor's board with PFFB..
"Finally got my music streamer finished with the 3e 3255 board. Sound quality is great. I am getting a very loud off pop through the speakers. Is there an easy way to stop this?"
Either get a speaker protect circuit (hopefully one that can be driven by an extra lower voltage output output from your PS; do not get a soft start circuit) or...
turn the volume down before you turn the amp off? I’m not being flippant here..
Pete
Either get a speaker protect circuit (hopefully one that can be driven by an extra lower voltage output output from your PS; do not get a soft start circuit) or...
turn the volume down before you turn the amp off? I’m not being flippant here..
Pete
I run my sources into my DAC which then feeds a pre-amp before the amp (no speaker protect circuit in place in the amp case). I have the 3e 36V board PS. I can keep the volume up on the pre-amp while just shutting down the amp. I get no off pop and only a mild "on" pop.
Which PS are you using? My understanding a Class D amp is not always "on" (like a Class A), or partially on (like a Class AB) but needs some signal coming into it to actually to turn the amplification system on to sending something out to the speakers. That’s not an eloquent electronics description I’m sure..
Asuslover...I email Lester about the availability of this new amp and here’s what he said:
3255 amp is not yet available. We can't send outside the country using our postal office due to the pandemic. So we delayed its production.
It will be available by Mid October.
Thank you,
JLester
Yes you are taking a very high risk there. There should always be some means to control/limit volume to an "open" amplifier.
After some burnt woofers wisdom comes automatically
"I assume this is also a 3e board? I wonder why you do not get a pop and I do. I am using a Meanwell LRS 48V 350W."
Yes, I’m using the both the 3e amp & the 3e PS board.
Could be your Meanwell causing the issue. Rig up a temporary SPST switch from the Meanwell’s voltage output going to the 3e amp’s power input. You can then be determine if it’s purely the amp’s fault or the Meanwell powering the amp.
I know from measurements on the 3e SMPS that when the mains power is cut (to the SMPS) there is still enough voltage supplied to the amp to keep it powering the speakers because of the capacitors. So there isn’t a immediate shut off of the amp.
Cheers,
Pete
Yes, I’m using the both the 3e amp & the 3e PS board.
Could be your Meanwell causing the issue. Rig up a temporary SPST switch from the Meanwell’s voltage output going to the 3e amp’s power input. You can then be determine if it’s purely the amp’s fault or the Meanwell powering the amp.
I know from measurements on the 3e SMPS that when the mains power is cut (to the SMPS) there is still enough voltage supplied to the amp to keep it powering the speakers because of the capacitors. So there isn’t a immediate shut off of the amp.
Cheers,
Pete
Thanks,
I didn’t mean to make u repeat yourself , but from the moment I read daniboun post to the moment I posted mine somebody else asked same/my question .
I just got the new Rev B 3e TPA3255 2 channel board last week. Total silent when I switch off PSU (MEANWELL 36V 200W). Slight, quiet, click on power on, but have to listen to hear it.
Amp is driven directly from output of Asus Xonar USB DAC. Like Gilera I just use the DAC volume control, so far so good and very happy with the sound.
Amp is driven directly from output of Asus Xonar USB DAC. Like Gilera I just use the DAC volume control, so far so good and very happy with the sound.
If you trust software you might be unpleasantly surprised one day. Like RogerMont says:"so far so good"
An "open" power amplifier will do its duty whatever the reason is and whatever the input signal is. It has no clever brain trying to limit the volume you set by clever software. Clever software might hang one day or an error occurs. Switching on a source connected to an "open" amplifier sure is playing with fire certainly when that source lacks any muting circuit as often seen today in cheap devices. The solution for that is hardware volume control which I would advise to use.
I think you already noticed the loud plops. Please compare prices of quality hardware volume control to prices of new woofers.
Last edited: