Paradigm?
lol
do you like the sound of aluminum drivers? or paper?
OP, please read this comment.
again and again, until you understand
you are clearly a beginner. you need to build something simple first. you will fail otherwise
Not all aluminum and paper drivers are made same right. So won't be picking it based on material. But based on which gonna perform better in detail retrieval and accuracy. Not all drivers are good at doing that. But heard positive of those SB Acoustic and Peerless Tymphany drivers.
But now am also considering a bit different route with BMD coaxial driver for high and midrange and possibly 8" or 10" woofer. Have to decide that yet.
you should at least get a known desing.
going blind, without experience, is uselessly complicated when you dont have a ton of experience under your belt.
why not use a DIY design of a proven diy designer?
Because the 3-way designs the drivers from proven and tested sources are not easy to get or are very expensive. So in either case it is not working out unless you can help me find a 3-way speaker design for which I can source in drivers or at a very reasonable price. I am unable to find such designs.
Please if you have some good design sources you wanna share. That would be really helpful.
cant you have the drivers shipped to you?
if not, what manufacturer you have access to?
edit: you can buy Faital from india. problem solved for bass! get a faital 15" pro driver in a BR 150L cabs.
now you just need to find a midrange driver you like, then find the type of tweeter you want
i wouldnt get a coaxial if I were you. they often need modifications both physical and xo wise to sound the best. they require a bit of experience. generally, for a noob, i dont think going coaxial is a good suggestion.
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The price with shipping and taxes takes it way up. Like almost double of what it costs. So hard to consider it.
I do plan to pair them with SUBs. So is that big woofer really needed. That will take up hie lot space with wide enclosure design.
if your asking if a 15" is necessary for excellent bass if you ask me, id say yes. you either need dual 12" or a 15" at the very least. if you ask 10 others here, youll likely get vastly different answers
imo, if you want real bass with real dynamics, you need a minimum of a cone area. Adding subs is adding another layer of complexity.
since your a noob, you want simplicity. id go classic 3-way (big bass driver, with 5 or 6 '' mids and tweeter). id avoid coaxial, subs, ect
Going digital XO is probably your best solution here since it will give you a good understanding of different type of filtrs, how they affect the sound, ect. you could fail completely going passive, while going digital will assure you to finish with a well measuring speaker.
Let us know exactly which manufacturer is affordable for you? someone suggested you can get Faital in india...
Why is it that you "must" have 3-way and "can't" go back to 2-way, not even to learn ?
cause he's convinced himself he needs a 3 way. with subs to boost.
going with a big 2 way, say JBL 2226h with a horn crossed at 1khz with a passive xo in a 150L cab would be the simplest most proven design.
I am kinda stubborn with a reason. Reason being there are many really good 2-way speakers for really low budget. No point me working on one even to learn as that will end up being not much better than really cheap ones. So. Would rather work on what I actually plan to have. And am bit not much by any means stubborn.
Oh, so theres many speakers that can beat Tannoy westminster or Canterburry for cheap? please let me know which exactly 😉
Hey if not going for 3-way and stuff. Would have actually avoided the DIY route completely. Would have settled for 2-way speakers and towers. But if you think 3-way have no pros over even a really good 2-way then you are mistaken. See poor 3-way design will suffer against a decent 2-way. But a decent 3-way gonna be even better than really good 2-way. Let it be in dispersion, sound stage or even imaging.
where did I said that 3 way is not better?
Ive mentionned many times already that going 2 way is beneficial in your situation since you are a noob.
3 way adds a complexity that you seem to dismiss for their supposed theoritical superioirty. in practice, often 2 way or even fullrange, for noobs is recommended cause they are much simpler to design succesfully. sucessfully... anyone can build a 3 way speaker. very few can build a successful one. hence going with a proven design in your case is the ONLY way if you want to go big for the first try and not fail. if you cant due to cost, many here recommend to you simpler design to get your feet wet. the experience youll learn after building your first speaker is invaluable. it might make you learn things about speakers youve never thought before, ect.
Of all the speakers I have heard till now Arendal THX speakers are the only 2-way speakers that manage to come a bit close to Paradigm Premier in department of imaging. But then they lack the sound stage. And yeah bit down on dispersion as well.
Yes. But forget the complexity part. I will have to deal with it. It is tough but it is worth the effort.
As I said I am ready to taken on a proven design but needs to be 3-way. I never said I will not take on a proven and tested design did I.
I will list the brands of drivers which I can source in. But have to say that not all drivers from the brands may be available. But yes will provide you with the list.
yes, a list would be great!
if you absolutely will not defer from going 3 way. fine. then, i recommend not going passive crossover for your first attempt. get a good digital crossover.
what is your room size and intended SPL?
I disagree. Filter types mean little if you don't get the other side together with them, you'll just hear differences and unfairly blame the filter type for it. If you have to use a digital filter to even get this far then it's too early to start wanting to know things like that.
Yes was definitely planning to go Active route as I know the complexity of building a passive 3-way crossover. That is what my title describes right.
18' x 20' x 10' seating will be 12' from front wall so rear wall will be 6' away.