First sentence read: "quasi infinite baffle". How relevant is that bass test result going to be? Seriously asking.Timothy Feleppa's pages have lots of useful info, besides the fr plots, on and off axis, there are distortion measurements.
Most small full range drivers approach 10% distortion at low frequencies.
https://feleppa.com.au/speakermeasmid.html
I recently gathered 9 different used 15" (plus my original putative Echo) and 2 different 12" Rola USA alnico (average cost just over $100/pr). Yeah, generally speaking an order more bass detail than all my "babies" including Satori MW19TX-8/TW29R-4 (~$700), MAOP10 ($400), FE108/168eΣ etc. But the 15s actually did not play lower/deeper for me due to lack of "cab" volume. Sealed or BR they would need maybe 350L (twice Vas) to reach 40hz -- which is a requirement for any of my "audiophile-purist" systems (including 3.75L Maevan TLonken), at 3m mid-field and placed well away from walls, very loud (not deafening) on piano/organ/orchestral closing climax. The most air I can give them is probably 90L sealed isobaric (Peaveys). Such are the realities of 15" bass....
I'm not a fan of ported speakers
There are a lot more ways to screw up a reflex than a sealed box …
dave
Any small fullrange, any, will have significant rise in distortion below 200Hz.
I was going to suggest raising he XO as well.
In Tysen V2 (1 FF85wKeN 3” with 2 Silerflute W14 5.25” helper woofers) we started with a 180 Hz PLLXO. Movedit up to 240, sounded better, played louder, XO eventually ended up at 450 Hz.
dave
approach 10% distortion
Geddes research suggests it needs to be twice that plus to start being corolated with sonics (at least as it is typically measured)..
dave
For a moderator you have rather weird comments.
No policeman emoji so he is speaking as a member. Moderator has nothing to do with things (except they tend to have to be better behaved).
dave

diyAudio moderation team
other 3-4" fullranges, will distort significantly more below 200Hz when compared with proper woofer.
As waxx suggests many FR are capable of bass equal or better to many mid basses, but pick a number and at lower frequencies a generalization is that a larger loudspeaker will distort less at low frequencies than a smaller driver. (Scott said it much better than i did)
It is all about the compromises you can best live with given the application.
The lower you cross the more FR goodness you retain, and the less “evill” the XO tends to be. Higher means less distortion and greater potential SPL levels.
dave
Im gonna go ahead and say if your looking for cost effectiveness or diy simplicity, There really is no substitute for markaudio speakers. The only drawbacks are spl capability and cone breakup in the treble. In reality the distortion is exactly the same as ANY pair of high end headphones, so to me this is less of a problem than some like to think. And for spl, I would reserve these for bedroom and office setups and you will see they are satisfying. My bedroom setup is chr-120 in decware dna horns (too small for these drivers but work exceptionally well) with fx audio l07 and ifi zen air dac. I love it. The reality is the acoustic space should be bedroom size. That is all.
cone breakup in the treble
Can be fairrly easily be made much less noticable improvement (to me).
Except for A7p, the paper cones with the “vintage” top do not suffer.
Your eagerness to make personal comments makes your argument appear weak.For a moderator you have rather weird comments.
Every speaker will distort near its limit. What an observation...wow, you must be smart one.
How logically do you attach a frequency to the distortion without specifying a level, since distortion depends on the level.
Is there data?Please see data.
The different sizes all seem to have a different 'vibe', in the sense of a headspace. Boxes witg 3" drivers are great for casual streaming or gaming gadgets for kids. The lack of bass frankly saves on headaches. Though I can see 4 or 5" sealed setups as still family friendly, while preventing the opposite problem where phone or laptop speakers often have a horrendous band-pass response that makes my ears bleed.And for spl, I would reserve these for bedroom and office setups and you will see they are satisfying.
A far bigger problem is when speakers start being capable of replicating a cinema experience.
Yea, not even getting into a lower f3 of a bigger driver vs a smaller driver, I preferred a 12" over 9 x 4".
Could also be something about coupling, moving air, idk.
Could also be something about coupling, moving air, idk.
Everything considered, to me it looks like a big loop, and then I seem to come to the departing point:
8" fullrange in the horn or TQWT-like box.
Why: In such box, it can manage to do something that may bw called "bass". And the treble too.
Yes, as we have discuassed in the thread, many other possibilities are open. But in the end, if I'd like to preserve a true fullrange speaker, i.e. no subwoofer, no added woofer, no tweeer, no multiple small fullrangers, then... I'd choose an 8" one.
Then it rests a question of finding the least offending one, which is still not exorbitantly priced. They do exists.
Then, a few notches here and there to tame the peaks in the highs. Then, a suitable amp which can make the most out of it (not most power). For me, these are more often than not, Pass Firstwatt variations...
So, compromises all over the place. But, in the end, what counts is, a smile on the face 🙂
8" fullrange in the horn or TQWT-like box.
Why: In such box, it can manage to do something that may bw called "bass". And the treble too.
Yes, as we have discuassed in the thread, many other possibilities are open. But in the end, if I'd like to preserve a true fullrange speaker, i.e. no subwoofer, no added woofer, no tweeer, no multiple small fullrangers, then... I'd choose an 8" one.
Then it rests a question of finding the least offending one, which is still not exorbitantly priced. They do exists.
Then, a few notches here and there to tame the peaks in the highs. Then, a suitable amp which can make the most out of it (not most power). For me, these are more often than not, Pass Firstwatt variations...
So, compromises all over the place. But, in the end, what counts is, a smile on the face 🙂
With careful negotiation and hard work, I once got away with 12” mid-woofer monkey-coffins in the living room... So, a pair of blue telephone boxes with 8" FRs seem almost feasible.😆
But there is something to be said for a nice finish: satin / semi-gloss on plywood with quality woodwork and smooth edges. They can't "get in the way" when when they're not playing.
But there is something to be said for a nice finish: satin / semi-gloss on plywood with quality woodwork and smooth edges. They can't "get in the way" when when they're not playing.
The lack of bass frankly saves on headaches.
phone or laptop speakers often have a horrendous band-pass response that makes my ears bleed.
Sounds like an auditory sensitivity. I would avoid high spl and distortion altogether. You dont listen to heavy metal do you?
With heavy metal, the distortion ís the music 😆You dont listen to heavy metal do you?
With heavy metal, the distortion ís the music 😆
DUNDUNDUN WEEEEEOOOEOEWEEEEECHHHHHH DUNDUNDUN WEEEEEEEOOOOOOOOO.
Thank you cleveland! Goodnight! 😛🤟
Yer know , those Audio Note $20k HFE boxes claiming 98db ( or 105 dB whatever ) with 8" blue conned drivers have ZERO bass if positioned out in the sizeable room . Half of the success ( or more ) is telling yourself and reading elsewhere that "IT SOUNDS Great! "
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