Pretty loud I guess, causing there are times I roll back the volume to clean up the sound. But that was before I loosened the screws. I won't get much time to spend with these till later tonight.
Speaking of excursion, is 180 to 140 a good place to be crossing these over?
I'm probably going to be getting lumber for the lenny's today.
Tip?
I use a painbrush slightly narrower than the part of the surround i am covering... small in the case of the FF85, without measuring, 2-3mm.
dave
I use a painbrush slightly narrower than the part of the surround i am covering... small in the case of the FF85, without measuring, 2-3mm.
dave
That could also be related to the amplifier starting to stress. It is only 5-6 watts max into an 86 dB driver.
dave
If they don't work for you, that's totally OK. 🙂
Find something that does. Everybody has a taste. There's likely nothing wrong with the speakers other than they are not your cup of tea.
If after trying the new amp and it still doesn't work, you might try other drivers in this size range - take a look at Faital Pro 4FE35 and Vifa TC9FD. Both are very smooth (fatigue free and not forward) and versatile performers in many different kinds of cabinets. If using a helper woofer I can suggest the Nautaloss cabinet with a 175Hz XO on the TC9FD or 4FE35. These drivers work well in an open baffle too. More info in the Nautaloss thread and the Cheap and FAST OB thread.
I skimmed the thread (apologies if this was already said), but I think they need a higher cross over point than that. I'm using them with a passive sub that's in the 250hz crossover range and it seems to be the ticket (though mine are in sealed cabinets right now). I'm really digging the FF85wk.
BTW, I'm using a Topping TP-22 which I'm really happy with.
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Totally agree. It was my first good desktop speaker, so I had to jump in somewhere. Now there is a point of reference for moving forward.
I kept saying Lenny above but it's the Lance enclosures I'm building, and I got the wood for it today.
Meanwhile I'm having fun tweaking the 85's now that they sound better after loosening the screws.
I'll see where that goes. But I see myself ending up with 4" drivers.
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Yeah that's why I asked because I'd seen some things that made that seem the case but 180 is as high as my sub plate goes.
But a different sub is in the works, possibly a Voxel and I'll make any changes I need then.
Now I have to try and talk myself out of the 5 1/4" circular saw I want when I go to HD tonight.
Get the high tooth count Diablo blade while you're at it. 😎 If you have the space to work then get the tools. You get them once and you have them for future projects. The old expression, "The right tool for the job" is appropriate for this hobby.
Yeah I'm going to get it. Ryobi 5.5" circular saw, drill, 2 batteries and charger for $79. The only fine tooth saw they had was 100 teeth. I think the next was 24t which was labelled as framing.
Were you going off this?: TOPPING VX1
The VX1 has more power than some of the popular toppings like the TP30/31 which are 15 watts.
My volume rarely gets above 12:00. If I max the volume in the software media player and in windows 10:00 is plenty loud (close to as loud as I ever get).
13.9W (RL=8Ω, THD+N=10%)
So something like less than half that at more reasonable distortion based on Tripath amps that have ratings at both 1% and 10% ratings.
dave
Ok Thanks.
The TPA 3116 amp will be here Tuesday so topping will be going away anyway.
Speakers are sounding SO much better just from loosening those screws. I'm listening to a source with no EQ, not particularly good bit rate (streaming) of speaker test songs and I'm really enjoying it. I do a lot less tweaking of EQ, volume and sub level. More just listening.
The TPA 3116 amp will be here Tuesday so topping will be going away anyway.
Speakers are sounding SO much better just from loosening those screws. I'm listening to a source with no EQ, not particularly good bit rate (streaming) of speaker test songs and I'm really enjoying it. I do a lot less tweaking of EQ, volume and sub level. More just listening.
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I think this is the right stuff but I can only find it in pens. This one is 2mm.
2mm Fine Tip Glue Pen, creates a permanent or temporary bond
That's the stuff.
I break the application bits off and pour it into another container, Bud has a trick to get the glue out without breaking the container, i found it too tedious.
dave
I break the application bits off and pour it into another container, Bud has a trick to get the glue out without breaking the container, i found it too tedious.
dave
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
I've used silicone glue on a finger tip and thinly spread on the back of a cone before - it doesn't dry out so retains it's viscoelastic properties.
Be aware that you may find that glue doesn't fix the problem completely and perhaps the 'magic' is gone after treatment because you are no longer hearing the same 'forwardness' so it can take time to readjust to the sound.
I started with a Fostex FE127E many years ago and found it was, in the end, too forward for extended listening but what it did for voices was amazing.
Another small driver I've had luck with (can listen for extended periods) is the Fountek FR88EX
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/175056-martello-enclosure-fr88ex.html
Be aware that you may find that glue doesn't fix the problem completely and perhaps the 'magic' is gone after treatment because you are no longer hearing the same 'forwardness' so it can take time to readjust to the sound.
I started with a Fostex FE127E many years ago and found it was, in the end, too forward for extended listening but what it did for voices was amazing.
Another small driver I've had luck with (can listen for extended periods) is the Fountek FR88EX
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/175056-martello-enclosure-fr88ex.html
I tried the EQ and it's interesting. Brings out the punch a bit which I like. A little muted in places but I'd like to play with. And I'm comfortable with a soldering iron. Starting the slope (1 db at 880) sounded the best to me with a little sub rolled in.
I was using a simple online tool to calculate BSC values (later I'm going to use Tolvan edge). Not that I don't trust your values but I'm trying to learn.
The simple calculator gave me
5" baffle - full width of cabinet including bevels on uFonken
912hz
.6mh
3.3 ohms
4" baffle (not including bevels on uFonken)
1140hz
.5mh
3.3 ohms
Kinda different from yours. I'm guessing (did I mention the guessing part?) that 'we' are attacking two different problems? Seem when I read about BSC it is for larger speakers that are somewhat of a distance. Where perhaps here 'we' are going after 'forwardness' in the near field?
Anyone else on the Xover question? If I need to cross over higher than 180hz than I'll get the 2.1 version of the 3116 amp.
I guess I got to start doing my own measurements . . .
Look what sandy claws brought me (well my credit card). Very nice for what it cost. I have a guitar work area, which is buried under guitar stuff, so this will be my speaker work area.
I guess I got to start doing my own measurements . . .
Look what sandy claws brought me (well my credit card). Very nice for what it cost. I have a guitar work area, which is buried under guitar stuff, so this will be my speaker work area.
Attachments
No problem at all. That's the fun of diy.
I usually use 1mH~1.5mH because I prefer to start lower, at about 500Hz. There's no hard and fast rule as far as I'm concern. The speakers are for your enjoyment. Shape the response to suite your ears and your listening room.