Playing with screws and music now, will report back later.
And later I'm going to hook them up to the front room system to remove this amp from the equation.
Thanks everybody for giving input. It's all appreciated. Knowledge is good, and I appreciate you guys sharing yours.
And later I'm going to hook them up to the front room system to remove this amp from the equation.
Thanks everybody for giving input. It's all appreciated. Knowledge is good, and I appreciate you guys sharing yours.
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Warm is the opposite of bright. A warm speaker is heavy on the bottom and weak at the top. Perhaps we really listening in different universes. One buys a detailed driver to hear all that is in the recording. You bought a detailed driver and complain that it is bright. Well, yea!
Topping amps are about as good as you are going to get with Tripath chips. They are old technology and have their problems. A bit of glassiness is one of them. The much newer Texas Instruments chip sound very much like a PP tube amp. Time to move on.
I beg to differ on source material. 320k MP3 is so close to 44.1k WAV that you have to know what you are listening for to tell the difference. Or, you are listening to the electronic and not the music. 256kMP3 (Amazon) is rather easy to pick up, but 256k AAC (iTunes) is very close to 320MP3. I am not convinced that anyone can hear the difference between 44.1k and 96k, although if you are doing any DSP, there is good reason to go for 24-bit.
Bob
Topping amps are about as good as you are going to get with Tripath chips. They are old technology and have their problems. A bit of glassiness is one of them. The much newer Texas Instruments chip sound very much like a PP tube amp. Time to move on.
I beg to differ on source material. 320k MP3 is so close to 44.1k WAV that you have to know what you are listening for to tell the difference. Or, you are listening to the electronic and not the music. 256kMP3 (Amazon) is rather easy to pick up, but 256k AAC (iTunes) is very close to 320MP3. I am not convinced that anyone can hear the difference between 44.1k and 96k, although if you are doing any DSP, there is good reason to go for 24-bit.
Bob
I agree totally with Chris...the speaker is special...no need for any compensation "if" the right gear is backing it...tripath not being it...sorry folks...
I've owned a Virtue Audio TWO.2 and this little 3116 hands down beats it...not saying the Virtue was bad...by no means...but the 3116 plays nicer 🙂
As well...I've also played around with an Electrocompaniet amp...plays extremely well with the Fostex's but cannot justify keeping it when the 3116 does almost as well right across the board for a lot less!!
My ears are very sensitive to nasty's...I don't find that at all with the 85's...very very natural in its presentation I find...it just has to be matched up right...I totally believe in synergy amongst gear...btw...here's my dac:
HiFimeDIY Sabre SPDIF DAC 115V
Not expensive...
BTW...how many hours do you have on these again??
I've owned a Virtue Audio TWO.2 and this little 3116 hands down beats it...not saying the Virtue was bad...by no means...but the 3116 plays nicer 🙂
As well...I've also played around with an Electrocompaniet amp...plays extremely well with the Fostex's but cannot justify keeping it when the 3116 does almost as well right across the board for a lot less!!
My ears are very sensitive to nasty's...I don't find that at all with the 85's...very very natural in its presentation I find...it just has to be matched up right...I totally believe in synergy amongst gear...btw...here's my dac:
HiFimeDIY Sabre SPDIF DAC 115V
Not expensive...
BTW...how many hours do you have on these again??
Oh and Dave is right too...you have to match...
Single drivers are different...no xovers and they do require some "tuning"...there is a learning curve to them...boxes play a big roll...and really...so does the amp...damping factor is something that needs to be addressed when matching an amp to a single driver...
It's almost like compliance matching a cartridge to the mass of a tone arm...
I hope I'm actually putting this out there with the right terminology LOL!!!
Single drivers are different...no xovers and they do require some "tuning"...there is a learning curve to them...boxes play a big roll...and really...so does the amp...damping factor is something that needs to be addressed when matching an amp to a single driver...
It's almost like compliance matching a cartridge to the mass of a tone arm...
I hope I'm actually putting this out there with the right terminology LOL!!!
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It should be noted that on the Lepai & Topping at least these filters are designed optimally for 4 ohm load and are not as effective on 8 ohms.
dave
On the TPA3116D2 amps, if you are using 8 ohm speakers, look for units with 22uH filter inductors and 10uH inductors if you are using 4ohm speakers. However, I have used 4ohm speakers on 22uH and 8ohm speakers on 10uH, and they still sound quite good. Adding a 330pF and 10R snubber between bootstrap cap and inductor seems to clean up a lot of HF (this is the optional circuit that is implemented in the TI Eval module but not shown in standard diag so most manufacturers did not implement it). Changing bootstrap caps to ceramic has also been reported to make a big difference. The single most important upgrade is to use a quality low ESR power rail cap like Panasonic or Nichicon. The new organic semiconductor (OSCON) caps are the best with ~10 mOhm ESR. For those of you who don't want to mess with it and buy a unit that is similar to a Topping in terms of quality components and circuit layout, the SMSL 36A which uses the TPA3118D2 (same as 3116 but cooled via conduction to PCB so only 25 watts/ch) is about $50 prebuilt with PSU, case, etc. For example here: Amazon.com: SMSL SA-36A PRO 2* 20W TPA3118D2DAP Amp Stereo Digital Amplifier + Power Adapter, by Gemini Doctor: Electronics
Reports are that this sounds really good out of the box...
Reports are that this sounds really good out of the box...
Bob, no offense but you are bordering on being condescending. Maybe even over the line a bit.
Warm is the opposite of Bright? Are you sure? Can you provide a source for that claim?
I could run you down my 'resume' for audio, but lets just leave it at I did live sound for 10 years, and at one point owned a very nice, very solidly in hifi land system, and agree that I don't need to be talked down to.
For those reasons and others, I assure you I know what accurate sound is, and about it's recording and playback. Ok?
And I'm just a guy trying to enjoy budget desktop audio if I can do some of it as DIY, bonus.
I am already shopping for a TPA3116 amp to buy. I'm reading about the differences in the color of the boards, kits that are ready to be mounted to a board vs completed, and seeing what people have to say about the 2.0 vs the 2.1 - cuz that's how I roll.
I also have a date to do some practice cuts on my friends table saw to see how well it is aligned, for a set of the Lenny's. I'm reading about drivers for the 'm's size fonken's. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to order some OS's so I can A/B single point vs 2-ways.
I'm moving and I'm pretty sure it's forward, unless I have forwards and backwards mixed up.
I'm not sure who you are differing with, but we fundamentally agree on the matter of bit rate. I was responding to dave's comment about needing FLAC for these speakers.
The speakers do sound better now with the speaker only snugged down. While not a miracle, there is what I will call a more singing quality to them, more musical and other improvements. And we'll see what the TPA3116 brings. But from what I'm reading I'm expecting good things without me buying a tube amp (my wallet says woo woo)
I guess we have solved the issue of the 'I don't like the 85's' and found the source of the issue.
Warm is the opposite of Bright? Are you sure? Can you provide a source for that claim?
I could run you down my 'resume' for audio, but lets just leave it at I did live sound for 10 years, and at one point owned a very nice, very solidly in hifi land system, and agree that I don't need to be talked down to.
For those reasons and others, I assure you I know what accurate sound is, and about it's recording and playback. Ok?
And I'm just a guy trying to enjoy budget desktop audio if I can do some of it as DIY, bonus.
I am already shopping for a TPA3116 amp to buy. I'm reading about the differences in the color of the boards, kits that are ready to be mounted to a board vs completed, and seeing what people have to say about the 2.0 vs the 2.1 - cuz that's how I roll.
I also have a date to do some practice cuts on my friends table saw to see how well it is aligned, for a set of the Lenny's. I'm reading about drivers for the 'm's size fonken's. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to order some OS's so I can A/B single point vs 2-ways.
I'm moving and I'm pretty sure it's forward, unless I have forwards and backwards mixed up.
I'm not sure who you are differing with, but we fundamentally agree on the matter of bit rate. I was responding to dave's comment about needing FLAC for these speakers.
The speakers do sound better now with the speaker only snugged down. While not a miracle, there is what I will call a more singing quality to them, more musical and other improvements. And we'll see what the TPA3116 brings. But from what I'm reading I'm expecting good things without me buying a tube amp (my wallet says woo woo)
I guess we have solved the issue of the 'I don't like the 85's' and found the source of the issue.
You are my new best friend. It will be here Monday. Amazon Prime baby!
Loose screws now, and a new amp with the right bits in it already.
You guys rock!!! (you to Bob)
Glad I could help. One year ago I had to build these 3116 amps from scratch and now they are like bottled water: available everywhere, and in different flavors and cheap. 😀
Let us know how the SMSL amp works out. I have been itching to buy one just to hear how it sounds.
Let us know how the SMSL amp works out. I have been itching to buy one just to hear how it sounds.
Kinda expensive to throw in front of a $49 amp. I'm not getting why it has two rotary knobs?
I don't have coax connectors. I have one optical and of course USB.
What about the next one down the $69 one?
There are a bizillion others here but beware it takes 3 weeks to receive order.
Online Shop MUSE Mini 24Bit 192Khz Coaxial Optical USB Input DAC Headphone Out,board + Power adapter + USB Cable|Aliexpress Mobile
As cheap as $6 and as high as $100(boxed).
Online Shop MUSE Mini 24Bit 192Khz Coaxial Optical USB Input DAC Headphone Out,board + Power adapter + USB Cable|Aliexpress Mobile
As cheap as $6 and as high as $100(boxed).
One is a selector and the other is the volume control for the headphone jack...kinda suits my needs 🙂
If you need usb then by all means...I've had good experience with just the straight usb version as well...although I don't use it from my Touch...
Oh...and the Muse NOS Dac's are also supposed to be really good...I like a good NOS Dac!!!
I've been reading about the transmission line speakers, I'm excited to try one. Might be just the thing for what I like in my sound.
For the 85, today's 'project' is hook them up in the front room.
Question: Does the back brace on the ufonken cabinet diminish the usefulness of the putty between the frame and driver?
How about the glue on the back of cone? Might be helpful for what I'm looking for or not. Just want to try things as a new guy.
Sideways, I'm shopping for DAC's today. Thanks for the ideas.
For the 85, today's 'project' is hook them up in the front room.
Question: Does the back brace on the ufonken cabinet diminish the usefulness of the putty between the frame and driver?
How about the glue on the back of cone? Might be helpful for what I'm looking for or not. Just want to try things as a new guy.
Sideways, I'm shopping for DAC's today. Thanks for the ideas.
Do you mean ductseal shaping the magnet/basket interface?
No, they have quite different purposes.
dave
Yes the ductseal that I have seen recommended as a mod
Worth it, pointless? diminishing returns?
Worth it, pointless? diminishing returns?
The ductsealis used to shape the rear exit of the driver. It is worthwhile, reducing the amount of earler reflection back theu the cone. A secondary benefit is that it damps basket ringing.
dave
dave
Perfect I'll give that a shot this weekend. I suspect some ringing/resonace is contributing to my 'wince' factor.
How about that glue on the back of the cone that i've seen referenced by you in other threads?
How about that glue on the back of the cone that i've seen referenced by you in other threads?
Do you mean the ZIG 2-way glue that you paint over the surround where it is glued to the cone? That helps damp a cone edge/termination issue in both the FF & FE Fostex.
dave
How loud are you listening?
Even once crossed over to avoid lots of cone excursion, harmonic distortion increases with power input. I found this to be a problem with my FE126eN drivers - they sounded louder than the bass driver because of the extra distortion when turned up. The kHz range became even more prominent, etc etc
Chris