They would be labeled "222", are 220pf, would better if they were to be film/foil, if they aren't already, am guessing that they are not...
The metal can op amps are great if you can find a convenient source, but probably not worth a lot of searching, learning manadarin, etc.
The metal can op amps are great if you can find a convenient source, but probably not worth a lot of searching, learning manadarin, etc.
There is a lot being on offer currently currently here in diyaudio.
It will have to be soldered with some sort of adapter, but if you say it is much better than plastic housing- I ll do extra work
It will have to be soldered with some sort of adapter, but if you say it is much better than plastic housing- I ll do extra work
Very clinical sounding, not sure if it is better than my cs4398 with transformer UTC output.
However, I have a new problem, the xmos does not work with my mac so I need the windows driver, can anyone share this with me please? I believe it has to be v2.1 from mini show as I've tried diyinhk drivers v1.67 and v2.19 and the drivers installation does not find the device
can anyone share the correct drivers with me please?
stu
However, I have a new problem, the xmos does not work with my mac so I need the windows driver, can anyone share this with me please? I believe it has to be v2.1 from mini show as I've tried diyinhk drivers v1.67 and v2.19 and the drivers installation does not find the device
can anyone share the correct drivers with me please?
stu
Regarding the opamp, it is audio, and you do hear nearly everything, but I suppose it will depend on how far you go replacing other things as to whether or not it will be a difference that's worth the extra cost/effort.
I was doing some troubleshooting and put in the 5532 opamps that came with it, did not sound horrible anyways during a brief listen.
I was doing some troubleshooting and put in the 5532 opamps that came with it, did not sound horrible anyways during a brief listen.
Right, TS HA upgrade is incredibly audible!
Music , words coming out of complete , solid quietness! Like just said...
Music , words coming out of complete , solid quietness! Like just said...
Yes, these caps been removed.
I possibly can remove other bypasses of small electrolytic ones.
And need to look in my box for any available 220pf cap
Opamp (ha version) is coming, need to find adaptor, or is it possible to fit it without ?
I possibly can remove other bypasses of small electrolytic ones.
And need to look in my box for any available 220pf cap
Opamp (ha version) is coming, need to find adaptor, or is it possible to fit it without ?
I would go with an IC socket adapter, and just tack on the leads, then you'll have an easily removable device.
The 104(.1 uf)caps around the op amps I have replaced with .001uf film/foil once the 220uf silmics were replaced with some silmic gold tune(ars). It sounded a lot better after doing that, vocals are more prominent, still very smooth. You may have to expirement here a bit to fine tune things to your ears/system, etc.
The 104 caps around the dac chip were mostly replaced with some Evox polycarbonate of the same value, surplus from years ago. Those were nice sounding, and were smaller case size too.
The 104(.1 uf)caps around the op amps I have replaced with .001uf film/foil once the 220uf silmics were replaced with some silmic gold tune(ars). It sounded a lot better after doing that, vocals are more prominent, still very smooth. You may have to expirement here a bit to fine tune things to your ears/system, etc.
The 104 caps around the dac chip were mostly replaced with some Evox polycarbonate of the same value, surplus from years ago. Those were nice sounding, and were smaller case size too.
"Right, TS HA upgrade is incredibly audible! "
voxxonline,
please What do you mean by TS HA? and where?
voxxonline,
please What do you mean by TS HA? and where?
lme49710ha... the tin-can version so to say.."Right, TS HA upgrade is incredibly audible! "
voxxonline,
please What do you mean by TS HA? and where?
Not to sound snobby or anything, but the capacitors do make a substantial difference, can do well with high quality industrial parts though, a lot of the audio stuff is too expensive IMO.
Even better if you can find a surplus supply shop somewhere and dig through their inventory.
The TS HA are capacitors made by Panasonic, are for the main filter(large ones), are a great bang for the buck it would appear from the results these guys are finding with them.
The "HA" option with the lme 49710 op amps is a different thing altogether. Those parts have a metal can around the part instead of plastic.
Even better if you can find a surplus supply shop somewhere and dig through their inventory.
The TS HA are capacitors made by Panasonic, are for the main filter(large ones), are a great bang for the buck it would appear from the results these guys are finding with them.
The "HA" option with the lme 49710 op amps is a different thing altogether. Those parts have a metal can around the part instead of plastic.
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Panasonic TSHA Series Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In | Mouser it is panasonic capacitor- get 35v 25mm diameter one, 4700 uf
more tweaks to follow, but indeed, change of caps helped to open sound and bring more life to the bottom frequencies, plus stereo imaging improved
opamps are in the mail somewhere , soon 🙂
more tweaks to follow, but indeed, change of caps helped to open sound and bring more life to the bottom frequencies, plus stereo imaging improved
opamps are in the mail somewhere , soon 🙂
I was hoping someone would have tried these, but I can't find much in the way of testimony as to how they sound, great specs though;
http://www.epcos.com/inf/20/30/db/aec_2013/B41505.pdf
http://www.epcos.com/inf/20/30/db/aec_2013/B41505.pdf
Gents, need advise. I still want to put toslink outboard. Will I need to do something with TPA module TOSLINK Optical Input Module , like removing caps and else from main board, because toslink module has own passive components ?
I tried mounting the existing toslink externally with 3 cat5 wires. But it was unsuccessfull and stopped working. Does anyone have an idea as to why?
I've never used the toslink except to troubleshoot a bad usb board, sorry I've no suggestions there.
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