Weiliang DAC9 with AK4399

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Is it a direct swap or will I need to change some of the surrounding circuitry?
(...)
If I make an order from digikey UK or Farnell I will need to pay a one off postage fee.... what would be your first suggestion for extra components to change, I don't want to do too may mods but I would be comfortable replacing a few bits...

Hi Stu,

I've missed your questions... but better late than never.... 😉

The LME49710 is a direct replacement, no mods to support it.

The first things to replace are the PFRs (blu boxes) and the green EROs, along with the Samwha smoothing caps (unless the vendor changed brand)
 
Not really. My one is coming.
I will follow Dario's route, I trust him a lot for a good reason- if you follow his advise it will always be clear and tidy. If no, people here will help.
So if you re planning to mod, we can make a list of parts to buy.
 
I ve got board now.
It is version 1.2 , with evox pfr caps.
How to wire transformer:
Mains, 4 wires : 0 (blk) 115 (grn) 230v (red) SGN (yel/grn)

And secondary: 2 white (0v 9v) 2 yellow (0v 15v) 2 blue (0v 9v) 2 brown (0v 15v)
I ve seen wiring pic, from left to right: 2 white, 2 blue, 2 brown , 2 yellow
Question- with each pair there is no difference, which goes left or right ?

Thank you
 

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Question- with each pair there is no difference, which goes left or right ?

Each pair (same color) is a secondary.

For 15-0-15 input you should use brown, brown/yellow tied together, yellow.

Just for sake of security measure AC voltage between the brown/yellow and brown and yellow, you should read 15Vac each time.

Looks like black is neutral, green to be wired together with red to get 230 and sgn is ground?

No, for 230V operation green must be isolated, black neutral, red phase.

Yellow/Green is transformer's screen and should be grounded.
 
Thank you
Question:
I have enclosure ready for another dac, and all cut outs already in place, except usb.
Can I use existing receptacles (rca's not a problem, I know)?
I mean, if I use toslink receptacle from twisted pear: TOSLINK Optical Input Module instead of existing, or I can lift existing and wire remotely (it might fit existing cut).
As well, I d need to do do the same with usb (for instance PX0447 - BULGIN - MINI USB TYPE B, RECEPTACLE, PANEL | Farnell UK )
And on top of the things I would like to place spdif switch on front panel, for easier access, but wires will be long. Will it affect sound, or interference risk ?

🙂
 
Keep in mind that modifications may be more difficult to accomplish with the hard wired sockets and receptacles for your signal in/out.
I do admire your path of making a device that would pass as a consumer product though.
Mine started like that, but now looks like robot war/lampizador, experimental-thing on the inside of the case anyways.
Did you get the transformer wires sorted out?
How big is the enclosure? Is it ventilated?
 
It is 330x280, galaxy enclosure from modu shop, italy. It is partially vented. Another device in there is small pre board.
I ll keep usb in place, just use panel mount receptacle and short usb cable to it for now.
Only problem is toslink module....

Cases look a bit different- polished and so on.

I will be submitting another cnc project for back panel- I need to redo allocation of jacks and iec on pre back panel, it has to be the other way around, but it will take time, as I m doing it via my friend,and these things never happen easy 🙂
 

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Re front panel switch: you can see there is a hole, I can use for switch, but it means running wires back to front (in current setup it will have to cross mains wire 90' once, so I ll possibly redo back and move iec to the other side).
Possible solution is to use relays to switch signal?
 
That case is nice!

I wonder if the relays that would be good for replacing that switch would fit in it's place?
Would seem to be better than running coax all over, maybe.

Can you manage the room to ba able and partition the transformer in a separate chamber?
 
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