Noted, and thanks for the reminder,
To those outside the US, please read the ongoing component discussion. I am inevitably surprised when some people cannot get a part commonly available in the US (or when they can get one at half my cost...
). Suggestions on where to source parts in other countries can, and should, be part of the discussion.
Hi PMI
Your boards are so nice that I could use them to replace my own original version of the now called VSSA. My version was made with a generic modified F5 pcb(from EBAy) for the front end and an old prototype board for output stage (3pairs) since no pcb existed at the time (in spring 2012)...
Please count me in for 2 boards.
Thanks again to share that with us !
Fab
Your boards are so nice that I could use them to replace my own original version of the now called VSSA. My version was made with a generic modified F5 pcb(from EBAy) for the front end and an old prototype board for output stage (3pairs) since no pcb existed at the time (in spring 2012)...
Please count me in for 2 boards.
Thanks again to share that with us !
Fab
Nice to see you here, Fab. Looking forward to your contributions!Revision C Schematic, BOM
The schematic and BOM have been cleaned up a bit. Component values now correspond to the boards I have been testing, and schematic and BOM should now be consistent. Please note that the recommended values of some resistors, and a couple small caps in the input filter may change as a result of the discussion started above.
The main heatsink shown in the various pics was selected based on the recommendation in the main VSSA thread for +/-45V supply voltage, and 160 mA per channel total idle current. It came from one of the diyaudio advertisers, HeatsinkUSA. Original size was 10"x4" with one inch fins, 0.65C/watt. It is one of their standard extrusions, cut to 4-inches. I believe the cost of the extrusion, was around $12, plus cutting to size and shipping. The brackets at the ends are 3/8" aluminum, and help with thermal coupling to the front and back plates of the chassis.
The schematic and BOM have been cleaned up a bit. Component values now correspond to the boards I have been testing, and schematic and BOM should now be consistent. Please note that the recommended values of some resistors, and a couple small caps in the input filter may change as a result of the discussion started above.
The main heatsink shown in the various pics was selected based on the recommendation in the main VSSA thread for +/-45V supply voltage, and 160 mA per channel total idle current. It came from one of the diyaudio advertisers, HeatsinkUSA. Original size was 10"x4" with one inch fins, 0.65C/watt. It is one of their standard extrusions, cut to 4-inches. I believe the cost of the extrusion, was around $12, plus cutting to size and shipping. The brackets at the ends are 3/8" aluminum, and help with thermal coupling to the front and back plates of the chassis.
Attachments
Of course, I look forward to seeing it!Thanks, Pete for sharing...
may I used it for hand made style
but no...
I'm more interested in parts selection too,
so I will use my own layout & see if it is okay to post here?
I will try your schematic, a bit different from Shaan & LC's one
Regards
Your preferences are welcome here, don't just tease us Fabian!I will be glad to help if I can. However, since you have already made the pcb I feel a little shy to make comments on my preferences...
Fab
(I am hoping Marc will post his version and his ideas here, too, or at least a link,
)
Are you talking from these?(I am hoping Marc will post his version and his ideas here, too, or at least a link,
- VSSA-50_TO3P
- VSSA-TO264
Marc
Précisement Marc... your layouts are a good example, not to mention an inspiration...
Hi PMI!!! To be honest...I like your design better
I know your boards are bigger, but that is the way to go!
Very good job!!!!
I feel the same way, SMD parts we use what we can get, regular (exotic) parts has bigger selection on the market.
Greetings G
That's why i didn't publish direct here my iteration. As i said all time SMD i use are 1206 size so really not the smallest...and are standart one that you can easy find...
Marc
Marc what I meant
When I go to the electronics- surplus store here in Toronto mostly they have one type SMD resistor, capacitor etc if they have any from the needed value (not a wide selection )
So I need to order my parts from Parts Connexion.
If we take a look for example a simple 1K resistor they have several type. 3-4 type Carbon, 6-7 type metal film from different company.
I think SMD parts is the future but right now I prefer through-hole parts because wider selection plus I'm familiar with the quality due experience from past.
Greetings G
When I go to the electronics- surplus store here in Toronto mostly they have one type SMD resistor, capacitor etc if they have any from the needed value (not a wide selection
)So I need to order my parts from Parts Connexion.
If we take a look for example a simple 1K resistor they have several type. 3-4 type Carbon, 6-7 type metal film from different company.
I think SMD parts is the future but right now I prefer through-hole parts because wider selection plus I'm familiar with the quality due experience from past.
Greetings G
Last edited:
I avoided using SMDs partly for ease of assembly/handling and troubleshooting, partly because I simply liked Shaan's approach: Use conventional components anyone can get, and show that you can still get good sound.Marc what I meant
When I go to the electronics- surplus store here in Toronto mostly they have one type SMD resistor, capacitor etc if they have any from the needed value (not a wide selection
So I need to order my parts from Parts Connexion.
If we take a look for example a simple 1K resistor they have several type. 3-4 type Carbon, 6-7 type metal film from different company.
I think SMD parts is the future but right now I prefer through-hole parts because wider selection plus I'm familiar with the quality due experience from past.
Greetings G
One set of boards from the last revision was assembled using an ordinary soldering iron with a medium tip, and no temperature control. No problems, and boards worked fine. (Note that having a fine-tip soldering iron does help, and is quicker.)
Using SMDs in a few places would have made the board smaller, and the traces shorter, but in quantities under 100 pieces, it makes little difference. If I had to make a board in any quantity, it would be no contest.
I think the nx-Amp boards Bonsai designed are a good example of using SMDs where they can be of most benefit, and leaving the rest as TH.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.