Looking again at the THF-51s formfactor (which is very different from TO-3) it is a real possibility to mount the THF-51s directly at the heatsink and have easy access to all three terminals. I have the mounting "garniture" for these devices......isolators etc....
I'd check your shoulder washers. While the THF-51S hole is big enough for an M4 bolt (it's actually 5mm in diameter), the plastic shoulder washers I have that fit the THF-51S only accommodate an M3 bolt- they appear to have sides that are 1mm thick. I would be glad to have a part number for 5mm shoulder washers that fit an M4, as well as non-ceramic insulators.
I just checked and a M4 screw fits the isolators. Why TO-3 is mentioned on the label on the small plastic back I don't know. They are much larger than TO-3 devices. If only M3 fits in your case, I guess M3 will do the job for mounting the THF-51s directly and not via a bracket.
When I ordered the Tokin's, I also ordered the mounting "garniture".
https://www.ebay.com/usr/watanabetomoaki?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559
With current prices I should probably have ordered more than just a quad and a pair.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/watanabetomoaki?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559
With current prices I should probably have ordered more than just a quad and a pair.
Oh good lord, $32+ for a pair of these shipped to the US. Idk how I missed them back when I bought my SITs. Yet I could buy 10pcs 'for a few dollars more' (read: $58).
There were what seemed like a ton of the THF-51S being given out at the BAF2022 raffle, and since I have a pair already (& had mine greedy eyes on other stuff, haha), I looked elsewhere. All of those lucky bstrds need these mounting parts if they expect to build an amp. I smell a group buy.
A future THF kit: would require an additional hole to place it directly on the heatsink. Not much work for Gianluca, just some programing. Or, the connection coule be made on the T-bar (my preference). Then the board would have a space left open for it with two appopriate holes and the whole build would be very self-contained again.
I had an email with Gianluca, where he states he is interested in the idea of a preamp chassis that matches the V-FET main chassis.
My suggestion is:
albert
My suggestion is:
- 2u high, [or option 1u/2u)
- same total width as the front plate (but no heatsinks of course)
- Same depth.
- Same brushed front finishing. Or at least the same colour of aluminium.
- frontplate 2 mm (so knobs can be put on it, selectors, without running in trouble because of a thick 10mm plate where many things would not fit is my experience)
- backplate 2 mm, with an array of two lines of 5 holes that are for cinch plugs (for in/out) and if you want balanced, you must increase the size of the hole yourself . . .)
- I prefer 2 mm top and bottom aluminium. But could be iron. But needs a line of ventilation. Could match the form of the existing holes (where the top plate is less wide)
- well, then alu sides simple plate just finishes it off.
- you have to find you own feet
so they are in line with your requirements. - Holes with matching bolts. . Nothing fancy though.
albert
Vunce, I do understand, but a 'kit' like the B1K full kit would involve some party (DIY-store? ZM? Mark Johson just to name a few from a long list) that offers one specific kit and a specific card. Like a B1 for instance; or indeed a multitude other things (you know, what I will try next, a LU1014-follower with a choke so I need the 2U )
But any build of a preamp needs standard things on the front (excluding those who have the IR remote stuff):
)But any build of a preamp needs standard things on the front (excluding those who have the IR remote stuff):
- a volume knob
- a selector
- a power on switch (What I do: my power switch engages a relais that swithes on the power to the output)
- a hole for a LED (small like 1 mm requires special LEDs; I prefer 4mm opening with a real LED but it is easy to expand)
- on the back also a power plug (to smps or else. . .)