Very slim subs?

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Hey guys,
I am new here. Been fascinated for diy speakers since a few weeks. For a new home set up I am wondering if it would be possible to make very slim sub. I know you can't bend physics, but how slim would it possibly be to reach f3 of around 30Hz? For this range an 8 or 10" woofer seems the minimum, making the baffle 300mm wide.
But now I found this little monster:
KT 100 V - 4 Ohm | Visaton
32 Hz for a 4"! Baffle of 140mm, maybe less?
Not the most powerful, but they are cheap. So a stack of 2 or 4 would be possible and still be very slim.
Hight and depth are not limited, so a tall QWTL is fine.
What do you think guys?
 
Well, if height and depth aren't limited, make a tall, deep box and mount the driver(s) on the left and right sides of it. As long as it fires into somewhere open (i.e., not into a wall) it doesn't matter which direction a sub driver faces, everything is omnidirectional at the frequencies they operate in. If you want to make something really slim, do it with something like this: Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm
 
There will be cavity resonances (and can be leveraged in the right design!), but as Bill states, you can get the volume!

Just make sure that it has the mechanical stability to not rock in use, as you will not have any moment along the short axis.

I wish more people were designing for the modern integrated home instead of gigantic behemoths that dominate the interior design entirely, so kudos to you!
 
Hey guys,
I am new here. Been fascinated for diy speakers since a few weeks. For a new home set up I am wondering if it would be possible to make very slim sub. I know you can't bend physics, but how slim would it possibly be to reach f3 of around 30Hz? For this range an 8 or 10" woofer seems the minimum, making the baffle 300mm wide.
But now I found this little monster:
KT 100 V - 4 Ohm | Visaton
32 Hz for a 4"! Baffle of 140mm, maybe less?
Not the most powerful, but they are cheap. So a stack of 2 or 4 would be possible and still be very slim.
Hight and depth are not limited, so a tall QWTL is fine.
What do you think guys?
There are lots of options. It all depends on how much output you need, the amount of amp power available and your budget.
 
Well, if height and depth aren't limited, make a tall, deep box and mount the driver(s) on the left and right sides of it. As long as it fires into somewhere open (i.e., not into a wall) it doesn't matter which direction a sub driver faces, everything is omnidirectional at the frequencies they operate in. If you want to make something really slim, do it with something like this: Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm

Tnx Bwaslo, that flat 10" is very interesting. But maybe not the best option to squeeze the sub between the furniture...:eek:
 
Line aray

What is a line array? See lots for sale from China.
SMALL SIGNAL PARAMETERS
DC resistance
Re
Ohm
5.8
Resonance frequency
Fs
Hz
63.7
Moving mass
Mms
g
31
Compliance
Cms
mm/N
0.20
Force factor
BL
N/A
21.9
Mechanical Q-factor
Qms

5.0
Electrical Q-factor
Qes

0.18
Total Q-factor
Qts

0.17
Equivalent air volume
Vas
I
16
Voice coil Inductance
Le
mH
2.2
Diaphragm area
Sd
cm²
240
Reference efficiency
Eta 0
%
2.6
 
There are 6" woofers that can be tuned low like the SB Acoustics SB17CAC35-8 or so, and those fit in a 20cm wide box if you make it tall and deep enough. That's probally the smallest width you can have for a sub.

That SB Acoustics need about 35L vented and tuned to 30Hz, so it will be like, with bracing counted something like 20cm wide, 100cm high and 43cm deep as example, with a 5cm dia and 15cm long port (fast rough calculation).

that is about the smallest width i could find for a sub tuned to 30hz, and it won't be loud (60w for 86dB/1w/1m)
 
Hey guys,
I am new here. Been fascinated for diy speakers since a few weeks. For a new home set up I am wondering if it would be possible to make very slim sub.
Hi PCSoldaat, welcome to the forum. If you want very slim (and tall) subs then Tapped Horns are probably what you are looking for. Here is a very nice example (which I am also interested in building):
Deep sound, no need for high output
Unfortunately the designer was not very helpful with more info.

More info on designing your own:
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Tapped Horns
 
slim case

Hey guys,

I have been playing tonight with Hornresp, Excel and Sketchup.
Made a QWTL with 2,6 m length and a little taper for a double 4" Visaton driver.
The KT 100 V - 4 has an area of 54,1 cm2. I put them in series at an offset of 30% (average for 2 drivers).
The close end has an area of 3,5*Sd and ends at 2,0*Sd.
I chose an internal width of 12 cm. The depth of the line is from 15 to 9 cm.
The walls are 18 mm MDF.
The case measures on the outside: 1300 mm tall, 300 mm deep and... 156 mm wide. Is that slim? Think so!

Hornresp shows a rather flat Acoustical Power from 30 Hz to 80 Hz. The F3 is around 25 Hz. Wow!:D
Only thing that scares me a little is the displacement of 2 mm (the Xmax) below 25 Hz. How bad is that?

The case has an external volume of 61 L. Pretty small I think, for low bass.
OK, the power of 2*25 W RMS is a little small too, but good enough for me.
 

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A shallow 10" or 12" woofer will obliterate a pair of fours.

"There's no replacement for displacement."

If you want a shallow sub, just keep it simple and do as Bill advised.

True, so true and assumed there would be at least four for to get it to an 8", claimed modest output.

Other than the pricey R-F Punch, wasn't aware there were any decent 'pancake' woofers, just the usual 'one note' mobile audio ones the folks in my locale buy at Wal Mart or the more 'upscale' Best Buy, etc..

That Peerless looks good, but apparently no longer available in USA, though its replacement looks even better except for a bit higher Fs.

GM
 
Flea-Watt TL

Hey guys,

I have been playing tonight with Hornresp, Excel and Sketchup.
Made a QWTL with 2,6 m length and a little taper for a double 4" Visaton driver.
The KT 100 V - 4 has an area of 54,1 cm2. I put them in series at an offset of 30% (average for 2 drivers).
The close end has an area of 3,5*Sd and ends at 2,0*Sd.
I chose an internal width of 12 cm. The depth of the line is from 15 to 9 cm.
The walls are 18 mm MDF.
The case measures on the outside: 1300 mm tall, 300 mm deep and... 156 mm wide. Is that slim? Think so!

Hornresp shows a rather flat Acoustical Power from 30 Hz to 80 Hz. The F3 is around 25 Hz. Wow!:D
Only thing that scares me a little is the displacement of 2 mm (the Xmax) below 25 Hz. How bad is that?

The case has an external volume of 61 L. Pretty small I think, for low bass.
OK, the power of 2*25 W RMS is a little small too, but good enough for me.

Hi PCSoldaat,All

:wave: I suggest using a 2 x 2 Watt Amp.;)

b:)
 

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