Thimios, there are a couple of different values that people have used. I have used these values from Thiago and it works good.
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Jan, when AKSA says good to move on and connect speakers, its good to go. I had the same experience with the suggested AKSA55 (by HD), it is still my best sounding. Still without a case, but connected to my main speakers.😀
😀
This is going to my daughter in Cape Town for a X-mas present, so I will go the extra mile.I am just afraid that I will waste with a 600VA transformer as I was testing with a 250VA and the rails does not even drop with 4000uf caps !
This is going to my daughter in Cape Town for a X-mas present, so I will go the extra mile.I am just afraid that I will waste with a 600VA transformer as I was testing with a 250VA and the rails does not even drop with 4000uf caps !
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Hi Hugh,
Have you an advise of what type 2.2nf cap to place? I have my version allready in tube with FQA40N25/MJL4281.
Marc
Prasi and other DIY-fans I would love to invite you to see the project.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...ifier-trilogy-plh-jlh-amps-7.html#post5178585
I think is a very simple interesting amp.. It is not my project.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...ifier-trilogy-plh-jlh-amps-7.html#post5178585
I think is a very simple interesting amp.. It is not my project.
Yes, that amp is along the same vein: singleton input and quasi output with very simple design and low parts count. Sounds wonderful and measures superbly.
All Thiago Quasi PCB's sent out in mail today. Please let me know when you receive them.
advice for next time, make them 2 sided , there is no extra cost with Chinese board Houses.
The posted advice is here., however its cool to have some different looking PCBs.
JLH 10 Watt class A amplifier
and here is the result of a single sided layout but masked from both sides.
JLH 10 Watt class A amplifier
The light color you see , is a reflection from roof, otherwise its all jet black!.
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Yes, that would have been nice to at least have pads on the topside to give some additional bonding strength, especially for spade terminals. But that is all up to Thiago who did the layout. Although, as you say, it is a unique looking board with translucent satin finished see through top side and blue bottom side.
Nice looking JLH amp there Prasi - did you build it yet?
Nice looking JLH amp there Prasi - did you build it yet?
If anyone is interested, my PCB set is for sale. 25$ USD instead of 27$ USD and X can ship directly to you since my PCB has not yet been shipped
Reason : I already have a few of DACz layout and started populating them a few months ago. I thought the onboard PSU was very nice on this one (and it is) but I don't really need to save space.
Thanks
Do
Reason : I already have a few of DACz layout and started populating them a few months ago. I thought the onboard PSU was very nice on this one (and it is) but I don't really need to save space.
Thanks
Do
Nope, I havent built it yet, I am trying to budget the case, the trafo and premium components. already bought expensive monster heatsinks.
however i did supply the pcb to few interested guys, they haven't reported back as of today.
planning on a 5U case with monster trafo and with the monster h/s.
I know the feeling. I have a Babelfish J waiting in the wings to be built. I ahve the case, and now the dual PSU boards. Debating whether to go with trafo or SMPS. I have the 3U Dissipante case from DIYA store - good value and I don't have to drill and tap heatsink holes. Although, the recent success with the DLH makes me wonder if I should try it there first.
While busy building the second channel I found that I have put in a 470R resistor in the place of the 470K R1 input resistor. This is obviously going to change everything.I suppose bias and offset will have to be set again. It does sound very good as is. Will change it tomorrow and see what happens. I wonder if it could have caused the oscillation that needed the 2.2nf on the MJL3281 to cure it ? The head does not think where the eye's are looking !😀
R1 is there to stop the input cap from charging up and causing nasty pops when the input cable is connected/disconnected. The value isn't critical but it needs to be high enough so that it doesn't excessively load your source equipment. Any value between 100k and 1Meg is fine.
But that 470R you have in there now is going be difficult for your source to drive and will result in a loss of gain if your source has any appreciable output impedance.
But that 470R you have in there now is going be difficult for your source to drive and will result in a loss of gain if your source has any appreciable output impedance.