I will have to look through my records and do a quick check on theCanada Post website to figure out a shipped cost. You can proactively DM me your address so I can figure out postage.
So much time inactive... sorry about one question: the DM stands for?
I remember the PM (personal message) with the older forum format.
BTW: I tried to find some "PM" function and not found it (for sending the address).
I remember the PM (personal message) with the older forum format.
BTW: I tried to find some "PM" function and not found it (for sending the address).
Both common acronyms, Direct Message or Personal Message, it is all the same, whatever works.
Unfortunately OT, but...
Oh, I don't found anything with this name or the acronym. Only menu I found is one called "Conversation". This is the private one now?
Or, if one are out for too much time, some functions are disabled (less privileges)? Today I'm back after more than a year inactive (and used too little the site after the update).
Oh, I don't found anything with this name or the acronym. Only menu I found is one called "Conversation". This is the private one now?
Or, if one are out for too much time, some functions are disabled (less privileges)? Today I'm back after more than a year inactive (and used too little the site after the update).
You can click on someone's user name and then on "Start conversation" to send a PM, DM, start a private conversation, or whatever it is called.
Some thoughs about the versions I'm choosing:
Like I said, at first, I'm thinking about the DSD-only version but, leadberry have one complete project board so I'm then decided for the complete version. Even if I cannot plug all itens at very first, it will be possible to test with DSD first, so is an advantage.
Yesterday I made the Loki DSD DAC to work (the DIYINHK simply refused to receive DSD; more investigation is needed). And this generates the signal with proper frequencies (2.822MHz family). So, I can feed it with DSD if needed.
About the AK4137 version.... since this is a very long thread, I'm not real all postings, I don't know if anyone succeeded with this version?
I'm seriously think about it, but I hit my digital brickwall (for a analog/hardware guy like me), since it only permits to use DSD in software mode. So, if nobody makes this version, I'm unable to do it.
But, in any case, the very optimized filters and modulators in original version are very compelling (and far more advanced than the ones in the AK4137), so seems to be a wortwhile investment for a high-quality DAC. Just meanwhile, I'm will test a "NOS" DAC ("NOS" because the digital filtering will be in the PC) using old legacy chips; the very same digital filtering subject/issue. I will use the PGGB filtering (the Foobar version). I'm eager to hear (or not) differences with all these implementation.
Like I said, at first, I'm thinking about the DSD-only version but, leadberry have one complete project board so I'm then decided for the complete version. Even if I cannot plug all itens at very first, it will be possible to test with DSD first, so is an advantage.
Yesterday I made the Loki DSD DAC to work (the DIYINHK simply refused to receive DSD; more investigation is needed). And this generates the signal with proper frequencies (2.822MHz family). So, I can feed it with DSD if needed.
About the AK4137 version.... since this is a very long thread, I'm not real all postings, I don't know if anyone succeeded with this version?
I'm seriously think about it, but I hit my digital brickwall (for a analog/hardware guy like me), since it only permits to use DSD in software mode. So, if nobody makes this version, I'm unable to do it.
But, in any case, the very optimized filters and modulators in original version are very compelling (and far more advanced than the ones in the AK4137), so seems to be a wortwhile investment for a high-quality DAC. Just meanwhile, I'm will test a "NOS" DAC ("NOS" because the digital filtering will be in the PC) using old legacy chips; the very same digital filtering subject/issue. I will use the PGGB filtering (the Foobar version). I'm eager to hear (or not) differences with all these implementation.
If you are referring to the original design published in Linear Audio you might want study the schematic before you proceed on the basis of the above assumption.
Well pointed. For trying to adventure with DSD with partial board stuffing, will need all the parts for the DSD-only version... only worth if some big delay is needed to invest in the external modules.
Just about the modules... MarcelvdG, your offer to send programmed modules is possible these days? If yes, is valid for the LX45 module?
A programmed one will help me a lot, and will help me to make the decision to make all DAC from first (not by step, trying raw DSD first).
A programmed one will help me a lot, and will help me to make the decision to make all DAC from first (not by step, trying raw DSD first).
I could buy an LX45 module, program it and send it to you if you are willing to pay for it in advance; I don't want to make any profit, but I also don't want to take the risk that you don't pay and I get stuck with a module I don't need. You will then probably get a bill for Brazillian customs charges at some moment.
It might be cheaper (I don't know if it is, but it might) if you buy a module yourself and program it using the USB interface, like @rfbrw recommended in post #1939. You don't need a JTAG programming cable with the USB method. I have no experience with this method of programming the modules, but rfbrw has.
It might be cheaper (I don't know if it is, but it might) if you buy a module yourself and program it using the USB interface, like @rfbrw recommended in post #1939. You don't need a JTAG programming cable with the USB method. I have no experience with this method of programming the modules, but rfbrw has.
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I don't know that I would recommend it as it is a low level approach, not quite command line, but a bit involved especially if you have to do anything with the USB firmware first. Xilinx lab tools and a JTAG cable is a lot easier.
I'm finally decided for the MarcelvdG help.
About the EF80, used above the crystal oscillator: I have a lot of EF184. It have 3pF more g1-k capacitance (presumabily due to frame grid), but gm and g1-g2 µ are higher (and are pin comaptible). I can try, and try to adjust if the something differs, watching the results. If I'm unable to "tame" it (fearing about the higher gm and instabilities), then I buy some EF80.
About the EF80, used above the crystal oscillator: I have a lot of EF184. It have 3pF more g1-k capacitance (presumabily due to frame grid), but gm and g1-g2 µ are higher (and are pin comaptible). I can try, and try to adjust if the something differs, watching the results. If I'm unable to "tame" it (fearing about the higher gm and instabilities), then I buy some EF80.
There is an inexpensive alternative AMD/Xilinx option for configuration. Buried in their website is a pdf file UG908. Within it is an option to reprogram a FTDI based programmer like the Adafruit FT232H Breakout Board using a tcl program inside the Vivado design tools. After reprogramming the device will appear in the fpga configuration software. There is also this
Via USB https://wiki.trenz-electronic.de/pages/viewpage.action?pageId=10620253 (button Selec msc and button Program)
It looks and can be easy, especially if you are used to such things, but I don't know that I would suggest it to a potential first timer instead of the AMD/Xilinx Impact or Vivado Lab tools method. https://wiki.trenz-electronic.de/display/TEUSB/Xilinx+iMPACT