Well
I have one too, however I've noticed there's quite some differences with the 963...
Most likely the clock mods Guido's cooking up won't work.
PSU and output stage upgrades still apply though.
BUT the whole thing is SMD stuff, to you'd better know what you're doing before you mess with it.
Also, check the firmware version, after I updated mine, he was actually better...
A8
I have one too, however I've noticed there's quite some differences with the 963...
Most likely the clock mods Guido's cooking up won't work.
PSU and output stage upgrades still apply though.
BUT the whole thing is SMD stuff, to you'd better know what you're doing before you mess with it.
Also, check the firmware version, after I updated mine, he was actually better...
A8
Alien8 said:Well
I have one too, however I've noticed there's quite some differences with the 963...
Most likely the clock mods Guido's cooking up won't work.
Also, check the firmware version, after I updated mine, he was actually better...
A8
I'm working on a 963 and am interested in checking the firmware and updating it as needed. How is this done?
While you are tweaking... just wondering - though a bit out of scope:
Would it also be possible to add some components to create a digital-IN to lead external (multi-channel audio out) sources to the DD/DTS decoders of the 963SA?
And one other thing: since player also supports MP3 (yeah, I kn ow, I know...) Would latest firmware (as far as I know 4.81.25) also solve the MP3 gap problem?
Would it also be possible to add some components to create a digital-IN to lead external (multi-channel audio out) sources to the DD/DTS decoders of the 963SA?
And one other thing: since player also supports MP3 (yeah, I kn ow, I know...) Would latest firmware (as far as I know 4.81.25) also solve the MP3 gap problem?
963SA outputs
I still don’t want to open my 963 because of the guarantee, but could somebody with a service manual tell me how the audio outputs are connected. Are the final OPamps connected to the two pairs of RCA (front speakers) and to the scart pins also? If so, that means if I have a TV set connected it would represent an additional load and I should expect a sound deterioration… Am I right?
Thanks
I still don’t want to open my 963 because of the guarantee, but could somebody with a service manual tell me how the audio outputs are connected. Are the final OPamps connected to the two pairs of RCA (front speakers) and to the scart pins also? If so, that means if I have a TV set connected it would represent an additional load and I should expect a sound deterioration… Am I right?
Thanks
Re: 963SA outputs
The Front output has their own op-amps ad8032. The "stereo out" has a pair of LM833, and they also feed the scart op-amps (also LM833).
So, no. It should not matter if you have the TV set connected or not.
IMHO.
Asen said:I still don’t want to open my 963 because of the guarantee, but could somebody with a service manual tell me how the audio outputs are connected. Are the final OPamps connected to the two pairs of RCA (front speakers) and to the scart pins also? If so, that means if I have a TV set connected it would represent an additional load and I should expect a sound deterioration… Am I right?
Thanks
The Front output has their own op-amps ad8032. The "stereo out" has a pair of LM833, and they also feed the scart op-amps (also LM833).
So, no. It should not matter if you have the TV set connected or not.
IMHO.
upgrading Philips 963sa
I am new to this forum and relatively new to audio tweaking (I've built my own speakers and subwoofers, but have not fiddled with electronics). I recently purchased a 963sa and have already swapped out the PSU cap for a blackgate 150uF/350V and things seem to be settling in now after a couple of weeks of break-in. Does the unit have to be playing to break-in the cap, or does just having the power turned on do the trick? I am also wondering if anyone could be so kind as to suggest (in a nutshell) what the most worthwhile mods would be in order of most bang-for-the-buck for this player.
Thanks for any help
Chris
I am new to this forum and relatively new to audio tweaking (I've built my own speakers and subwoofers, but have not fiddled with electronics). I recently purchased a 963sa and have already swapped out the PSU cap for a blackgate 150uF/350V and things seem to be settling in now after a couple of weeks of break-in. Does the unit have to be playing to break-in the cap, or does just having the power turned on do the trick? I am also wondering if anyone could be so kind as to suggest (in a nutshell) what the most worthwhile mods would be in order of most bang-for-the-buck for this player.
Thanks for any help
Chris
Hallo, folks!
I don't understand...Please some advice!
I have the TV set connected via scart cable and the sound is a bit better, with smoother treble and deeper bass. When i disconnect the scart the sound becomes grainy.So, no. It should not matter if you have the TV set connected or not.
I don't understand...Please some advice!
Chris,
Don't know about cap burn-in but I'd guess it would be better if the player was actively doing something rather than idling so that the current through the cap was changing - put a disc in and set it on repeat.
These are someone else's numbers not mine but ...
% improvement :-
40% linear power supply for analogue section
30% for 2 stacked DACs (20-25% for stacking 1 DAC)
15% for 24MHz clock mod
10% for AD1896
5% for caps
Cheers,
Jon
Don't know about cap burn-in but I'd guess it would be better if the player was actively doing something rather than idling so that the current through the cap was changing - put a disc in and set it on repeat.
These are someone else's numbers not mine but ...
% improvement :-
40% linear power supply for analogue section
30% for 2 stacked DACs (20-25% for stacking 1 DAC)
15% for 24MHz clock mod
10% for AD1896
5% for caps
Cheers,
Jon
linear power supply for 963sa
Jon,
Thanks for the helpful reply. That should get me going in the right direction as far as prioritizing. Has anyone posted a schematic for the linear power supply for the analogue section of the 963sa? Also, why is stacking 3 of the existing DACs better than simply upgrading to a single better DAC chip? Does the DAC in question function in both the CD and SACD domain of the player, i.e., does it improve both types of playback (sorry for such an ignorant question)?
Thanks
Chris
Jon,
Thanks for the helpful reply. That should get me going in the right direction as far as prioritizing. Has anyone posted a schematic for the linear power supply for the analogue section of the 963sa? Also, why is stacking 3 of the existing DACs better than simply upgrading to a single better DAC chip? Does the DAC in question function in both the CD and SACD domain of the player, i.e., does it improve both types of playback (sorry for such an ignorant question)?
Thanks
Chris
Please, can anyone tell me if the Analog (Stereo Out) of the dvd963sa with lm833 op-amp is feeded by ad1955 or cs4362 dacs. I don't have the schematics, so please adwise.
I want to upgrade the lm833 with op275gs for stereo purposes. It is good to try?
I want to upgrade the lm833 with op275gs for stereo purposes. It is good to try?
adinica,
The AD1955 output feeds through an AD8022 as I/V converter and then another AD8022 as LPF to the front L/R, so this will be the better output.
The CS4362 handles the multi-channel; decoding surround L/R, centre channel and LFE.
The LM833 is used for buffering the scart output L/R and stereo L/R. The source is switched depending upon whether the centre channel is used or not, either fed by front L/R (from the AD1955/AD8022) or centre (from the CS4362). The switch (74HCT4053) output is buffered by an LM833 which is AC coupled to the stereo L/R and then feeds through another LM833 buffer to the scart L/R.
So to finally answer your question the stereo L/R can be fed by the AD1955 or the CS4362 !
Cheers,
Jon
The AD1955 output feeds through an AD8022 as I/V converter and then another AD8022 as LPF to the front L/R, so this will be the better output.
The CS4362 handles the multi-channel; decoding surround L/R, centre channel and LFE.
The LM833 is used for buffering the scart output L/R and stereo L/R. The source is switched depending upon whether the centre channel is used or not, either fed by front L/R (from the AD1955/AD8022) or centre (from the CS4362). The switch (74HCT4053) output is buffered by an LM833 which is AC coupled to the stereo L/R and then feeds through another LM833 buffer to the scart L/R.
So to finally answer your question the stereo L/R can be fed by the AD1955 or the CS4362 !
Cheers,
Jon
Chris,
>Has anyone posted a schematic for the linear power supply for the analogue section of the 963sa?
You need +/-8V supplies for the opamps. If you want to go further there is a +5V supply to the CS4362 and AD1955 DACs (and some of the video circuitry). It would be better if the supply to the DACs was seperated from the video circuitry to avoid noise from the video switching coupling back to the DAC supplies.
>Also, why is stacking 3 of the existing DACs better than simply upgrading to a single better DAC chip?
You could redesign the analog output stage and use a different DAC if you want to! I don't think there is a pin compatible upgrade for the AD1955. Stacking DACs reduces noise (and also improves the current drive if they are current output devices). The idea is that noise is random whilst the signal you want isn't so with 3 devices connected in parallel the averaged output of the three gives you the signal and 1/3 of the noise of any one single device.
>Does the DAC in question function in both the CD and SACD domain of the player, i.e., does it improve both types of playback (sorry for such an ignorant question)?
Short answer Yes. Longer answer ... The player actually has two different DACs. The AD1955 has a differential stereo output and is used for both CD audio (standard bitrate and upsampled by the AD1855/AD1896) and the main two channels of SACD. A second DAC, CS4362 is used for the surround channels, this is a 6 channel DAC but only four channels are used. I was suggesting you parallel the AD1955.
Cheers,
Jon
>Has anyone posted a schematic for the linear power supply for the analogue section of the 963sa?
You need +/-8V supplies for the opamps. If you want to go further there is a +5V supply to the CS4362 and AD1955 DACs (and some of the video circuitry). It would be better if the supply to the DACs was seperated from the video circuitry to avoid noise from the video switching coupling back to the DAC supplies.
>Also, why is stacking 3 of the existing DACs better than simply upgrading to a single better DAC chip?
You could redesign the analog output stage and use a different DAC if you want to! I don't think there is a pin compatible upgrade for the AD1955. Stacking DACs reduces noise (and also improves the current drive if they are current output devices). The idea is that noise is random whilst the signal you want isn't so with 3 devices connected in parallel the averaged output of the three gives you the signal and 1/3 of the noise of any one single device.
>Does the DAC in question function in both the CD and SACD domain of the player, i.e., does it improve both types of playback (sorry for such an ignorant question)?
Short answer Yes. Longer answer ... The player actually has two different DACs. The AD1955 has a differential stereo output and is used for both CD audio (standard bitrate and upsampled by the AD1855/AD1896) and the main two channels of SACD. A second DAC, CS4362 is used for the surround channels, this is a 6 channel DAC but only four channels are used. I was suggesting you parallel the AD1955.
Cheers,
Jon
philips 963sa schematics
Hi Jon,
Thank you again for such a detailed and helpful response. With your explanation, it is now completely clear why stacking the DACs would be better. It seems similar to CCD imaging, in which one takes dozens of images and then stacks them to eliminate the random electronic noise while reinforcing the actual image information. Is there a point of diminishing returns with respect to how many DACs you can stack? Also, do you know where it would be possible to get PDF or paper versions of the schematics for this player? I know a company in the Netherlands sells the entire service manual (for about 50 US dollars), but I think just the basic schematics would be enough just for me to have a very rough idea what's happening inisde the player and what all the part numbers are to which people are referring on this list. Also, is the AD1896 an exact pin-match for the AD1855, i.e., is this a pretty much plug-and-play swap?
Thanks again for all your help
Chris
Hi Jon,
Thank you again for such a detailed and helpful response. With your explanation, it is now completely clear why stacking the DACs would be better. It seems similar to CCD imaging, in which one takes dozens of images and then stacks them to eliminate the random electronic noise while reinforcing the actual image information. Is there a point of diminishing returns with respect to how many DACs you can stack? Also, do you know where it would be possible to get PDF or paper versions of the schematics for this player? I know a company in the Netherlands sells the entire service manual (for about 50 US dollars), but I think just the basic schematics would be enough just for me to have a very rough idea what's happening inisde the player and what all the part numbers are to which people are referring on this list. Also, is the AD1896 an exact pin-match for the AD1855, i.e., is this a pretty much plug-and-play swap?
Thanks again for all your help
Chris
Chris,
>Is there a point of diminishing returns with respect to how many DACs you can stack?
Yes. There will become a point at which the benefit is outwayed by the cost of adding another DAC. Also there will become a point at which other noise sources become predominant. I don't know of anyone stacking more than 3 in total. Further it is not easy to stack them physically since they are surface mount devices and the leads are not very long.
>Is the AD1896 an exact pin-match for the AD1855
The AD1896 is pin for pin compatible with the AD1895 with the exeception of pin1 which should not be connected. The difference between the two is that the AD1896 has greater dynamic range with an associated reduction in distortion and noise; this refers to the digital filters.
Cheers,
Jon
>Is there a point of diminishing returns with respect to how many DACs you can stack?
Yes. There will become a point at which the benefit is outwayed by the cost of adding another DAC. Also there will become a point at which other noise sources become predominant. I don't know of anyone stacking more than 3 in total. Further it is not easy to stack them physically since they are surface mount devices and the leads are not very long.
>Is the AD1896 an exact pin-match for the AD1855
The AD1896 is pin for pin compatible with the AD1895 with the exeception of pin1 which should not be connected. The difference between the two is that the AD1896 has greater dynamic range with an associated reduction in distortion and noise; this refers to the digital filters.
Cheers,
Jon
Hi Folks,
I was just reading another thread 'Is the CS8420 really that bad?' and apparently the SRC4192 from TI is also pin compatible; deliberately by design, it would appear. Having quickly scanned through the datasheet it doesn't have the clock loop-through on pin 3 or the mute out on pin 15 but neither of these differences is a problem with this player since these pins are not connected! It has better specs than even the AD1896 though. Does anyone have any experience of this device?
Cheers,
Jon
I was just reading another thread 'Is the CS8420 really that bad?' and apparently the SRC4192 from TI is also pin compatible; deliberately by design, it would appear. Having quickly scanned through the datasheet it doesn't have the clock loop-through on pin 3 or the mute out on pin 15 but neither of these differences is a problem with this player since these pins are not connected! It has better specs than even the AD1896 though. Does anyone have any experience of this device?
Cheers,
Jon
Capacitors
Dear all,
After reading your posts, I opened my 963 today and prepare a shopping list wanna to buy some capacitors to start my modification... First of all, thank you so much for your sharing.
I have the following questions after I check;
1. I saw three capacitors which are nichicon gold #2429, 2421 (LR channel) but another is 2533 (?)
- What is the #2533 response for ? Why nobody mention to upgrade this capacitors as well ?
2 . I am going to buy some blackgate to replace with
# 2116, 2215, 2235, 2255, 2285, 2429, 2421
- But I saw there has two difference grade capacitors are being use at the audio PCB, one is Lelon (in blue color) and the other is Rubycon (in black color)
- Is it necessary to upgrade all Rubycon capacitors (Total 17pcs) to Elna silmic if I want to improve the AUDIO output only ?
3. Anybody mod with clock? Any photos you can post to here in order to let me follow ? e.g. what components need to remove and how to solder the clock module on it.
4. Anybody add a extra DAC to this machines? Any recommendation ?
Sorry for too many questions and thanks in advance.
Cheers
Dear all,
After reading your posts, I opened my 963 today and prepare a shopping list wanna to buy some capacitors to start my modification... First of all, thank you so much for your sharing.
I have the following questions after I check;
1. I saw three capacitors which are nichicon gold #2429, 2421 (LR channel) but another is 2533 (?)
- What is the #2533 response for ? Why nobody mention to upgrade this capacitors as well ?
2 . I am going to buy some blackgate to replace with
# 2116, 2215, 2235, 2255, 2285, 2429, 2421
- But I saw there has two difference grade capacitors are being use at the audio PCB, one is Lelon (in blue color) and the other is Rubycon (in black color)
- Is it necessary to upgrade all Rubycon capacitors (Total 17pcs) to Elna silmic if I want to improve the AUDIO output only ?
3. Anybody mod with clock? Any photos you can post to here in order to let me follow ? e.g. what components need to remove and how to solder the clock module on it.
4. Anybody add a extra DAC to this machines? Any recommendation ?
Sorry for too many questions and thanks in advance.
Cheers
bearbearloo,
#2533 is the coupling cap for the centre channel. If you're going to change that then there is also #2532 subwoofer, #2534 surround R and #2536 surround L.
Cheers,
Jon
#2533 is the coupling cap for the centre channel. If you're going to change that then there is also #2532 subwoofer, #2534 surround R and #2536 surround L.
Cheers,
Jon
I am going to add a clock modules to the 24.576 oscillator, do I need to remove the #2610 100uf capacitor ? Many thanks.
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