Dewdrop,
I have upgraded as Eric describe too. After the mod, I found the screen is brighter and clearer. Especially some scene with flashing light, it looks better than before mod. The BG caps may need a period of time to break in. I didn't desolder these 1000uf, instead, I cut the leads of original caps and solder the new caps on them.
(Above is my subjective comment, for your reference)
I have upgraded as Eric describe too. After the mod, I found the screen is brighter and clearer. Especially some scene with flashing light, it looks better than before mod. The BG caps may need a period of time to break in. I didn't desolder these 1000uf, instead, I cut the leads of original caps and solder the new caps on them.
(Above is my subjective comment, for your reference)
XFox,
Thanks for your encouragement...did you manage to see the improvement immediately or was it over some time?
Thanks for your encouragement...did you manage to see the improvement immediately or was it over some time?
Dewdrop,
U 'll find the effect immediately after u short the inductor #5203 (As I remember). However, short the inductor will give u a bit brighter & sharper screen as well as the side effect - more noise. For the BG caps mod, the effect will become significant after 10 to 20+ hours. 😉
By the way, different kind of display may affect the result. For my case, I'm using Philips 32" Plasma display.
🙂
U 'll find the effect immediately after u short the inductor #5203 (As I remember). However, short the inductor will give u a bit brighter & sharper screen as well as the side effect - more noise. For the BG caps mod, the effect will become significant after 10 to 20+ hours. 😉
By the way, different kind of display may affect the result. For my case, I'm using Philips 32" Plasma display.
🙂
Im thinking about changing the op-amp in my dvd963. Ackording to the lcaudio homepage, it is the ad8032 that drives the front channels, and it should be exchanged for ad8066. I was thinking if this is a good choice, or is the ad8620 even better? Anyone here that have exchanged their op-amps?
Link to lcaudio page: http://www.lcaudio.dk/com/963.htm
Thank you!
Link to lcaudio page: http://www.lcaudio.dk/com/963.htm
Thank you!
dewdrop,
The purpose of Caps mod is provide cleaner/smoother power supply to the processor & chips. Fewer noise on the screen, sharp and clear image presentation should be the result. However, only 2 x 1000uf BG caps mod may be not enough to produce significant improvement. After I read the schematic of video parts, I found some caps are affecting of screen output quality too including 2 x 1000uf.
I'm planning to do 2nd round modding of 963sa. Some OS-CON caps replacement on the digital power supply path and small BG cap for analog path. Copper tape shielding on chips surface and the ribbon cable from the transport module in addition to ground the shielding. I'm new to modifying machines, not sure what result will come, just trying and gaining some experience. 😱
Anyone has his own mod other than Eric described? Let's share the experience! 🙂
The purpose of Caps mod is provide cleaner/smoother power supply to the processor & chips. Fewer noise on the screen, sharp and clear image presentation should be the result. However, only 2 x 1000uf BG caps mod may be not enough to produce significant improvement. After I read the schematic of video parts, I found some caps are affecting of screen output quality too including 2 x 1000uf.
I'm planning to do 2nd round modding of 963sa. Some OS-CON caps replacement on the digital power supply path and small BG cap for analog path. Copper tape shielding on chips surface and the ribbon cable from the transport module in addition to ground the shielding. I'm new to modifying machines, not sure what result will come, just trying and gaining some experience. 😱
Anyone has his own mod other than Eric described? Let's share the experience! 🙂
Tentlabs DVD963SA power supply upgrade
Guido,
When is the expected completion date for your PS upgrade for the 963sa and also the DVD963SA clock upgrade?
Do you also have a tagret price for both upgrades?
Guido,
When is the expected completion date for your PS upgrade for the 963sa and also the DVD963SA clock upgrade?
Do you also have a tagret price for both upgrades?
Descrepancy in the cap values?
Hi Eric or anyone,
I have finally obtained the service info to the 963SA. I noticed a descrepancy in the value of the capacitor that you changed. For example, you replaced #2613 with 47uF instead of the 470uF indicated in the schematics.
I am going to start the modification. Please advise.
Thanks!
Hi Eric or anyone,
I have finally obtained the service info to the 963SA. I noticed a descrepancy in the value of the capacitor that you changed. For example, you replaced #2613 with 47uF instead of the 470uF indicated in the schematics.
I am going to start the modification. Please advise.
Thanks!
Some more queries...
Bump, anyone out there?
I have applied the changes recommended by Eric, well most of them, I wasn't sure on some of the components' values so I left them alone.
Anyway, although burn-in time is only slightly more than 24 hours, the sound is AWESOME so far. I like it! The vocals are airy, imaging is now spot-on, separation has improved. Beautiful. However, I felt that there's a slight tinge of brightness, I guess I should allow it to run-in further.
Now, I am interested to damp the player to reduce the vibrations. Any suggestions on the material and placement?
Thanks in advance
Bump, anyone out there?
I have applied the changes recommended by Eric, well most of them, I wasn't sure on some of the components' values so I left them alone.
Anyway, although burn-in time is only slightly more than 24 hours, the sound is AWESOME so far. I like it! The vocals are airy, imaging is now spot-on, separation has improved. Beautiful. However, I felt that there's a slight tinge of brightness, I guess I should allow it to run-in further.
Now, I am interested to damp the player to reduce the vibrations. Any suggestions on the material and placement?
Thanks in advance
Make sure to bypass the muting transistor by soldering the output end of the coupling cap directly to the rca out. It makes a very large difference with improvement to the soundstage and smoothness.
What about brightness?
Hi ChuckT,
Thanks for your advice. Does it help to tame the brightness?
Also, I thought simply removing the muting transistor off the board is good enough?
Cheers,
Hi ChuckT,
Thanks for your advice. Does it help to tame the brightness?
Also, I thought simply removing the muting transistor off the board is good enough?
Cheers,
Dewdrop, I think the brightness may be caused by 1) improper soldering or 2) the BG caps need more time to fully burn-in.
🙂
🙂
XFox,
Trouble was its so difficult to desolder the capacitors from the ground plane, I snipped off the leads of the old capacitors and soldered the BG caps onto them. Hopefully, that's not the cause.
Is ~24 hours enough burn-in time?
Trouble was its so difficult to desolder the capacitors from the ground plane, I snipped off the leads of the old capacitors and soldered the BG caps onto them. Hopefully, that's not the cause.
Is ~24 hours enough burn-in time?
I got same problem to desolder the capacitors. Just make sure the solder join is ok.
I'm pretty sure 24hrs is not enough for BG burn-in. My experience is more than 200hrs to make them open.
I'm pretty sure 24hrs is not enough for BG burn-in. My experience is more than 200hrs to make them open.
Oh dear, what special method did you apply to run it for 200 hours without it being painful to the ear?
😱
😱
Some people shared their experience in burning-in BG caps
for your reference.
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl...ighlight=blackgate+burn-in+bright&r=&session=
for your reference.
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl...ighlight=blackgate+burn-in+bright&r=&session=