The Proac D15 I had are also phase reversed 2 & 3 order... No error. You must understand it is AC. Respect the wirering and do shoot picture before dismanteling all without knowing after where the drivers polarity were connected to what.
Try to look for troels gravsen D15 crossover shematic...while Galu is making a sword in his highland 😉
Try to look for troels gravsen D15 crossover shematic...while Galu is making a sword in his highland 😉
Ha yeah.
i do plan on putting tape on the woofer and tweeter wires connected to the internal xo and taking a pic.
then I will take the woofer - and connect them to the proper binding post from the inside.
then run wire from the binding posts to the external xo
and taking the jumpers off the binding posts
thanks!
i do plan on putting tape on the woofer and tweeter wires connected to the internal xo and taking a pic.
then I will take the woofer - and connect them to the proper binding post from the inside.
then run wire from the binding posts to the external xo
and taking the jumpers off the binding posts
thanks!
Yep, what is marked outside near the binding post on the speaker bottom baffle is for amp connection. It could be different inside the speaker seen from the point of view of the filter.
Inside a Proac D15:
Inside a Proac D15:
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Here is what I have for my design using the new parts.
pretty simple xo.
i might play around to get a better and neater layout
but that’s about as neat as it gets. The parts will come much closer of course on the board.
pretty simple xo.
i might play around to get a better and neater layout
but that’s about as neat as it gets. The parts will come much closer of course on the board.
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Have you measured the former coils ? That are in mH not in uF.
You should use the original coils that have surely not standard milli Henri values and are tailored for the design and those caps values.
You should use the original coils that have surely not standard milli Henri values and are tailored for the design and those caps values.
Those were meant to be mH
not uf
yes all components on the original board were measured for inductance and resistance
the original inductors measure
tweeter 0.22mH DCR 0.2ohms
woofer 1.6mH. DCR 0.2ohms
i didn’t find a 1.6mH woofer inductor but I got madisound to unwind a 18mH one to 16mH
not uf
yes all components on the original board were measured for inductance and resistance
the original inductors measure
tweeter 0.22mH DCR 0.2ohms
woofer 1.6mH. DCR 0.2ohms
i didn’t find a 1.6mH woofer inductor but I got madisound to unwind a 18mH one to 16mH
As a rule, the plus input on the speaker is connected so that the positive input goes to the plus terminal of the bass driver. That's how it's connected on most speakers. The other drivers may or may not be in phase with the bass, it all depends on the crossover and the matching of the phases on the cuts. If your speakers sound different when the polarity is reversed, leave it as you prefer. Personally, I think that the connectors should be placed so that the red goes to the plus of the bass drivers, regardless of the fact that they were installed upside down at the factory. The factory is not a god, everyone can make mistakes. 🤣Ha, I don’t know.
people are saying that the xo isn’t wired in absolute phase
Many many hours.
and that is one of the reasons I like it
it is a hobby I am loving learning about
an eq will not do what I want.
if it were that easy everyone would buy a graphic eq and ‘ fix’ their speakers
I like my speakers a lot.
i just ventured into this to try and improve upon them.
and I’m having a lot of fun and learning
thanks man!
and that is one of the reasons I like it
it is a hobby I am loving learning about
an eq will not do what I want.
if it were that easy everyone would buy a graphic eq and ‘ fix’ their speakers
I like my speakers a lot.
i just ventured into this to try and improve upon them.
and I’m having a lot of fun and learning
thanks man!
After my slight tweaking I think the board will look neat in this layout
what do you guys think?
for now I drew out everything I need to do and connect.
and it looks something like this
just sharing
what do you guys think?
for now I drew out everything I need to do and connect.
and it looks something like this
just sharing
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Why will an EQ not do what you want?an eq will not do what I want.
That is what many audio pro's including myself have used for decades now ... what is it I'm missing?
When I finalize it I’m going to place it on some hardwood board.
not sure what I want yet.
most likely going to do a nice gunstock oil and wax finish.
not sure what I want yet.
most likely going to do a nice gunstock oil and wax finish.
Why will an EQ not do what you want?
That is what many audio pro's including myself have used for decades now ... what is it I'm missing?
most eqs whether they are graphic or parametric are not completely transparent for one thing.
it might sound pretty good from your seating position. but that’s where it ends.
IMHO the proper way is from the speaker and xo
like i said though. I don’t dislike my speakers.
i am listening to them right now and in fact loving them, as I always do
I have them paired up with a benchmark AHB2 amp an LA4 preamp , Marantz DAC and REL sub.
they sound really really good.
but everything can be improved upon.
hope that makes sense
Not too shabby huh?
iphone mic is clipping slightly , but it still gives a bit of an impression of what the speakers can do.
i don’t think I have ever posted a clip of the speakers in action?
iphone mic is clipping slightly , but it still gives a bit of an impression of what the speakers can do.
i don’t think I have ever posted a clip of the speakers in action?
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Your not gonna believe how good life gets when you hear a proper EQ. EQ puts you in complete control of how transparent the changes you make are.most eqs whether they are graphic or parametric are not completely transparent for one thing.
it might sound pretty good from your seating position. but that’s where it ends.
Most people I know sit in the one psoition when critically listening, if your moving around then your going to be making changes for a LONG time ... 🙂
Use electric dominos large enough in order leads and wires cross eachothers into it. The dominos just hzre to tigth the junctions.
Permit to swap parts without soldering...some over heated cap may suffer from soldering sessions. Even MKP are lees solid to heat rhat one coyld beleive.
Some caps like the Mundorf may need several dozen of hours to break in.
Permit to swap parts without soldering...some over heated cap may suffer from soldering sessions. Even MKP are lees solid to heat rhat one coyld beleive.
Some caps like the Mundorf may need several dozen of hours to break in.
Yeah that was like when I cryo-treated my mains fuses Like Russ Andrews .... after that defo nothing was there that shouldn't have been .... 🙂Some caps like the Mundorf may need several dozen of hours to break in.
Don't buy it if that's the case. Who will wait for them to play? 😵Some caps like the Mundorf may need several dozen of hours to break in.
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