'Upgrading’ my tweeters (can I do this?)

The Proac D15 I had are also phase reversed 2 & 3 order... No error. You must understand it is AC. Respect the wirering and do shoot picture before dismanteling all without knowing after where the drivers polarity were connected to what.
Try to look for troels gravsen D15 crossover shematic...while Galu is making a sword in his highland 😉
 
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Ha yeah.

i do plan on putting tape on the woofer and tweeter wires connected to the internal xo and taking a pic.
then I will take the woofer - and connect them to the proper binding post from the inside.
then run wire from the binding posts to the external xo

and taking the jumpers off the binding posts


thanks!
 
Yep, what is marked outside near the binding post on the speaker bottom baffle is for amp connection. It could be different inside the speaker seen from the point of view of the filter.

Inside a Proac D15:
 

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Here is what I have for my design using the new parts.

pretty simple xo.
i might play around to get a better and neater layout
but that’s about as neat as it gets. The parts will come much closer of course on the board.
8923A3B4-69C2-493D-ADC8-14F7FB312137.jpeg
 
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Those were meant to be mH
not uf

yes all components on the original board were measured for inductance and resistance

the original inductors measure
tweeter 0.22mH DCR 0.2ohms
woofer 1.6mH. DCR 0.2ohms

i didn’t find a 1.6mH woofer inductor but I got madisound to unwind a 18mH one to 16mH
 
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Ha, I don’t know.

people are saying that the xo isn’t wired in absolute phase
As a rule, the plus input on the speaker is connected so that the positive input goes to the plus terminal of the bass driver. That's how it's connected on most speakers. The other drivers may or may not be in phase with the bass, it all depends on the crossover and the matching of the phases on the cuts. If your speakers sound different when the polarity is reversed, leave it as you prefer. Personally, I think that the connectors should be placed so that the red goes to the plus of the bass drivers, regardless of the fact that they were installed upside down at the factory. The factory is not a god, everyone can make mistakes. 🤣
 
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Many many hours.
and that is one of the reasons I like it

it is a hobby I am loving learning about

an eq will not do what I want.

if it were that easy everyone would buy a graphic eq and ‘ fix’ their speakers

I like my speakers a lot.
i just ventured into this to try and improve upon them.

and I’m having a lot of fun and learning


thanks man!
 
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After my slight tweaking I think the board will look neat in this layout

what do you guys think?

D18770E2-D707-4A49-BC72-C256604170CA.jpeg


for now I drew out everything I need to do and connect.
and it looks something like this

just sharing
 

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Why will an EQ not do what you want?

That is what many audio pro's including myself have used for decades now ... what is it I'm missing?

most eqs whether they are graphic or parametric are not completely transparent for one thing.
it might sound pretty good from your seating position. but that’s where it ends.

IMHO the proper way is from the speaker and xo

like i said though. I don’t dislike my speakers.
i am listening to them right now and in fact loving them, as I always do

I have them paired up with a benchmark AHB2 amp an LA4 preamp , Marantz DAC and REL sub.
they sound really really good.

but everything can be improved upon.
hope that makes sense
 
Not too shabby huh?

iphone mic is clipping slightly , but it still gives a bit of an impression of what the speakers can do.
i don’t think I have ever posted a clip of the speakers in action?


 
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most eqs whether they are graphic or parametric are not completely transparent for one thing.
it might sound pretty good from your seating position. but that’s where it ends.
Your not gonna believe how good life gets when you hear a proper EQ. EQ puts you in complete control of how transparent the changes you make are.

Most people I know sit in the one psoition when critically listening, if your moving around then your going to be making changes for a LONG time ... 🙂
 
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Use electric dominos large enough in order leads and wires cross eachothers into it. The dominos just hzre to tigth the junctions.
Permit to swap parts without soldering...some over heated cap may suffer from soldering sessions. Even MKP are lees solid to heat rhat one coyld beleive.
Some caps like the Mundorf may need several dozen of hours to break in.
 
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