Upgraded Single Board PCM1794 NOS DDDAC

Very shiny, why did you out the two caps at the bottom of the board?

Thanks stijn001. These Kemet caps are little taller and wider than originals. On the dac board there is a resistor mounted underneath to accomodate shunt board. Resistor also is bigger than original and collide with Kemet caps in that very spot. So I had to move two of the Kemets underneath the mb as well.

DDDAC_Assembling_010.JPG
 
Looking to purchase tentlabs shunts for the new blue main board. 5v one is easy but for the 3.3 the tent website states a 3.3 option and a Doede 3.3 option. Of course logic States to purchase the Doede 3.3 version so I assume this is correct?

Is there a difference as the pin co fig is different?
 
Looking to purchase tentlabs shunts for the new blue main board. 5v one is easy but for the 3.3 the tent website states a 3.3 option and a Doede 3.3 option. Of course logic States to purchase the Doede 3.3 version so I assume this is correct?

Is there a difference as the pin co fig is different?

Yes, you are correct is the Doede's version. I still sent a message to the Tent informing which dac (PCM 1795) I wanted it to. I suggest you would do the same as he knows that there are two different dacs from Doede's stable. I don't know wheater there is a difference between them but he actually asked me for a specific model.
 
Hi,

A shunt regulator must be set to the correct current draw of the system it is feeding. The "doede" marked shunts are set to the current you need for the dac boards of the 1794 dac not for the main board. For the flipflops you can set at 35mA. If you want to use a tent clock with shunt you can ask Guido for the correct current setting.

Regards,
 
Ok thanks guys. I have the Doede version for the DAC boards and why I asked for the main board. I see a few guys have the tent shunts on the main board and hope one of them can confirm which one to order. If not I will email tent to confirm
 
Hi,

A shunt regulator must be set to the correct current draw of the system it is feeding. The "doede" marked shunts are set to the current you need for the dac boards of the 1794 dac not for the main board. For the flipflops you can set at 35mA. If you want to use a tent clock with shunt you can ask Guido for the correct current setting.

Regards,

Thanks Stefan, that means I purchased wrong 3,3v shunt for the blue board. Good you pointed that out as I was about to fire up my dac at the weekend LOL!
Obviously the dac will work without the one shunt mounted right?
 
1/2 delay logic vs R7?

But is the 1/2 delay logic just to do the job of R7? And is this really such an improvement? Bas Horneman

Everyone who has reported making this change along with the 5V Vreg and making R7 and R9 100 ohms heard a significant improvement in sq. The delay circuit does a better job of providing a delay that is best for all bitrates with clean fast bit transitions. Putting PPS bypass caps in digital circuits is an additional improvement you can hear.
 
Everyone who has reported making this change along with the 5V Vreg and making R7 and R9 100 ohms heard a significant improvement in sq. The delay circuit does a better job of providing a delay that is best for all bitrates with clean fast bit transitions. Putting PPS bypass caps in digital circuits is an additional improvement you can hear.

Thanks Carl you answered my resistor question!

jgwtriode
 
Stefan, how about the 5V shunt for the board? Shoud that be also different than the stock ones?

I use 40mA setting for the 5V shunt on the blue main board.

The value is not super critical but you need to take this into account: If your shunt current is set much higher than the required current plus some overhead (approx. 20%) it will need to burn the remaining current into heat, just take care it will not overheat.
If it is set lower than needed it will disfunction.

Regarding the shunt for the clock, you can leave this out if you are not using sp-dif.

Regards,
 
I use 40mA setting for the 5V shunt on the blue main board.

The value is not super critical but you need to take this into account: If your shunt current is set much higher than the required current plus some overhead (approx. 20%) it will need to burn the remaining current into heat, just take care it will not overheat.
If it is set lower than needed it will disfunction.

Regarding the shunt for the clock, you can leave this out if you are not using sp-dif.

Regards,

Thanks a lot!
 
I use 40mA setting for the 5V shunt on the blue main board.

The value is not super critical but you need to take this into account: If your shunt current is set much higher than the required current plus some overhead (approx. 20%) it will need to burn the remaining current into heat, just take care it will not overheat.
If it is set lower than needed it will disfunction.

Regarding the shunt for the clock, you can leave this out if you are not using sp-dif.

Regards,
Hi Supersurfer

In this for the red main board or the blue, I have the red one.
Thanks
 
I use 40mA setting for the 5V shunt on the blue main board.

The value is not super critical but you need to take this into account: If your shunt current is set much higher than the required current plus some overhead (approx. 20%) it will need to burn the remaining current into heat, just take care it will not overheat.
If it is set lower than needed it will disfunction.

Regarding the shunt for the clock, you can leave this out if you are not using sp-dif.

Regards,

Does this mean if you have a 5v tentshunt you need to alter say a resistor to set this current? What is the process please?
 
The current is set by some resistors on the shunts. I know there are several revisions on the market from Tent, I use an older one, so I will not be able to advice how to set the current. Best to contact Tentlabs if you want to experiment yourself with setting the current.

I use the blue board but I think the red board current draw for the 5v regulator is not much different ( I think a bit lower draw)

Regards,