In many languages first sound of "Schottky" sounds like "Sh" so people forget to write "Sch".
What Vovk said, it's a common misspelling, so on that note let's move on.. 
My next thought is why would anyone choose a design based on the TL-072 which while rather forgiving of misapplication is far from quiet by today's standards - yes it is better than the error amplifiers of that era found in monolithic regulators.
The design strikes me as needlessly complex (an exercise in intellectual excess) which is one reason why I have so far avoided acquiring a Studer A810 or similar, and of course they have also gotten obscenely expensive.
My next thought is why would anyone choose a design based on the TL-072 which while rather forgiving of misapplication is far from quiet by today's standards - yes it is better than the error amplifiers of that era found in monolithic regulators.
The design strikes me as needlessly complex (an exercise in intellectual excess) which is one reason why I have so far avoided acquiring a Studer A810 or similar, and of course they have also gotten obscenely expensive.
What Vovk said, it's a common misspelling, so on that note let's move on..
My next thought is why would anyone choose a design based on the TL-072 which while rather forgiving of misapplication is far from quiet by today's standards - yes it is better than the error amplifiers of that era found in monolithic regulators.
The design strikes me as needlessly complex (an exercise in intellectual excess) which is one reason why I have so far avoided acquiring a Studer A810 or similar, and of course they have also gotten obscenely expensive.
It is NOT about spelling. I understand your comment about using ceramics. It is about the reason of limono's suggestion with no reference.
The Studer900 clone may be "needlessly complex", but it is cheap, readily available and discussed extensively on this forum. It gives a path forward for non-expert hobbyist like me. Any more suggestion for improvement from you is greatly appreciated. You already made 2 that I can understand.
There are already op-amp trading in the original thread, but the result was inconclusive. What would you suggest?
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Well, here is my "reference" and sorry for a spelling error, although if you weren't able to Google a "shottky rectifier" your Commodore 64 would be a first thing to update instead of Studer PSU.
Well, here is my "reference" and sorry for a spelling error, although if you weren't able to Google a "shottky rectifier" your Commodore 64 would be a first thing to update instead of Studer PSU.
thank you for providing the reference. Most other e-bay seller did not pick up this feature.
Thank you for providing the reference. Most other e-bay seller did not pick up this feature.
While most of the e-bay seller missed it, the kit that I received was shipped with Schottky rectifier. I verified it by checking the Vf of the rectifiers on a diode tester.
It's all pretty good . The lt1963lt3015 which I often use due to simplicity ..good enough for me .
I tried the s11 copy ..also very good its more textured compared to chips..chips sounds leaner and clearer .when I need it of course I'll get from amb.
Now trying the studer 900. Only bad, thing is you need 2 sperate coil transformer for symmetry. You can connect from output.
Most importantly..they provide good value .but no issues with sound ..so yes ..just go ahead . Just use a slightly better resistor if you want slightly better. Those Chinese r have more zing and pop, some people likes .so if want smooth ..change it
I tried the s11 copy ..also very good its more textured compared to chips..chips sounds leaner and clearer .when I need it of course I'll get from amb.
Now trying the studer 900. Only bad, thing is you need 2 sperate coil transformer for symmetry. You can connect from output.
Most importantly..they provide good value .but no issues with sound ..so yes ..just go ahead . Just use a slightly better resistor if you want slightly better. Those Chinese r have more zing and pop, some people likes .so if want smooth ..change it
I use the smd. And throughole many different boards already.
Mainly just a normal bridge. Or schottky when I can. And always snubber transformer when I can.. Just standard value snubber works much better than none.
Output is very basic.. 10uf ceramic or 47uf to 100uf electrolytic bypass with 1uf film.
There is a paper review.. Done to compare such diy and chip regulator.. If u care to Google.
I1963 is ranked no. 3 in blind tes.. Best is walt jung. Good enough for me.. Lt 1963
Mainly just a normal bridge. Or schottky when I can. And always snubber transformer when I can.. Just standard value snubber works much better than none.
Output is very basic.. 10uf ceramic or 47uf to 100uf electrolytic bypass with 1uf film.
There is a paper review.. Done to compare such diy and chip regulator.. If u care to Google.
I1963 is ranked no. 3 in blind tes.. Best is walt jung. Good enough for me.. Lt 1963
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Do you make your own PCB? It is a skill and equipment most of the forum member do not have.
Use a blank pcb. Cut traces yes, not really difficult. But now they do sell blank pcb so alot neater and easier. You can buy them from Jim's audio in eBay. If symmetrical.. I use the smd type from China the new ones even have trimpot.
It's very predictable....soundwise and performance. No need to worry too much about exotic materials. Even with smd and standard diodes it have clear sound, height and width. And musical... It's the type of regulator which nothing much can go wrong easy peasy. Better spend money on good r core transformer.
It's very predictable....soundwise and performance. No need to worry too much about exotic materials. Even with smd and standard diodes it have clear sound, height and width. And musical... It's the type of regulator which nothing much can go wrong easy peasy. Better spend money on good r core transformer.
Any tip on finding good R-core transformer? Any US source? A specific brand you tested to be "good"?
I have been using Antek and Avel Lindberg toroidal transformer from US with very good results. I tried some toroidal from Chinese seller on e-bay and the result was not good, poor shielding from hum.
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