Very nice headphone design amp Peranders! I also looked at the TI headphone amp part but ended up going with a Natsemi buffer in my case. Driving headphones with a decent amplifer makes a huge difference in my expereince.
What part exactly from National Semiconductors?Very nice headphone design amp Peranders! I also looked at the TI headphone amp part but ended up going with a Natsemi buffer in my case. Driving headphones with a decent amplifer makes a huge difference in my expereince.
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I finally put the headamp into an enclosure. You can see the pics. I increased the gain to 3 and put the ALPS potentiometer on the input. I am happy with the sound and I have to say this amp is worth building it.
No, there is no power switch. I don't think that power switch is necessary since the unit takes negligible current (compared to other home appliances). The heat generated from the unit is very small to none, I used long lifetime high temp. capacitors just to make sure the unit can be plugget in all the time. There are fuses at the back of RF/EMI power plug, one LED and a POT.
Do you know if the amp 'pops' when powering on and/or off? (ie - if we decided to put a power switch before the trafo?)
Thanks. I used basic shielded wire we use for cameras security and low voltage devices at work. The cable is good quality copper used for long runs but nothing speacial really. The shield is just metalized foil not even braid. I don't think the shielded wire is required for this project. I tried it without a shield and it worked just fine (since the inside connections are short anyway.)Nice job indeed and the wire looks better than average I'd must say. Very good.
I just tryed that. No. There in no "pop" in headphones as we know when turning the amp. on and off. However, there is very slight audible burst when unit shuts off as discharging capacitors losing the voltage. I tryed it with 300 ohm Sennheiser headphones, so, no problem there. I don't know what the result would be when hooked up into lower impedance headphones (like 16 ohm lets say (caps discharge faster)). Would I personally put the swith there if I had to? Yes. P-A might give us some technical answer on this.Do you know if the amp 'pops' when powering on and/or off? (ie - if we decided to put a power switch before the trafo?)
I measured 1.4 and 2.2mV, so, no problem there.The TPA6120 might have a small offset so a very small pop may occur.
peranders,
Can you please clarify something for me? The wiki page lists the following prices:
AD8610 = 100 SEK (you'll need two of them)
Wago terminal kit = 43 SEK
RIFA PPS cap 100 nF = 18 SEK (you'll need two of them)
When you say "(you'll need two of them)", is the price for the pair or for a single unit and we need to buy two?
And for the wago terminal, does the 43SEK cover buy us both the 4pin and the 2x2pin blocks?
Cheers,
Dave.
Can you please clarify something for me? The wiki page lists the following prices:
AD8610 = 100 SEK (you'll need two of them)
Wago terminal kit = 43 SEK
RIFA PPS cap 100 nF = 18 SEK (you'll need two of them)
When you say "(you'll need two of them)", is the price for the pair or for a single unit and we need to buy two?
And for the wago terminal, does the 43SEK cover buy us both the 4pin and the 2x2pin blocks?
Cheers,
Dave.
If you look at the top of the article, you'll see that it says,
"An edit is awaiting approval. See the History tab for details"
That usually means that a newbie has editted the page (ie - their account is still under moderation), which means that a mod needs to approve or reject their changes.
Until that happens, the page will be locked for edits.
Cheers,
Dave.
"An edit is awaiting approval. See the History tab for details"
That usually means that a newbie has editted the page (ie - their account is still under moderation), which means that a mod needs to approve or reject their changes.
Until that happens, the page will be locked for edits.
Cheers,
Dave.
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