Nahhh... go for 30Hz. How else will you make the back of your mate's mum's van implode like that bread van you mentioned once before? http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=115524#post115524
I'm not even sure if that story was true.... I read it somehwere, can't remember where now.. 😛
it was that 6 foot sub pictured earlier in this thread... I think it was this thread.. lol
imploding van.. hmm... the guy has bought himself a car..
ohh well.. I think we'll still borrow the van sometimes.. 😉
it was that 6 foot sub pictured earlier in this thread... I think it was this thread.. lol
imploding van.. hmm... the guy has bought himself a car..

I'm aiming for 137dB in the van.... with less than 100 watts per woofer... 2 woofers.. 🙂 crazy, probably will never happen... but good if it does.. 😀
Started work on a Conical horn today... just for the fun of it, and to see if it works.. 😀 its 3 meters long with the 8inch woofer firing down... quite a small mouth actually.. lol 1100cm squared about.. 🙂 hmm... not sure where to put this thing...
might test it in the lounge room firing into a corner.. 😀 ahah... 3 meters long...
I gotta get some more cheap MDF tomorrow... and something for EXTERNAL bracing.. lol should do 125dB..... plus room gain... bit of a peaky response at 40Hz... but should be alright.. 😀 hehe hmm.... lol should be good.. 😀 cutting 2 layers of 16mm MDF with a hand saw is HARD WORK!!!


Full-house sound system.
Put it face down in the back yard. Then cut a doorway in the side and move all your stuff out there. Make the door seal and the horn-to-ground interface airtight so you have a frequency response all the way down to DC. This is so you can reproduce the barometric pressure on the day of the original performance - something to do with "atmosphere". Very old idea; see pic below.SkinnyBoy said:Started work on a Conical horn today... just for the fun of it, and to see if it works.. 😀 its 3 meters long with the 8inch woofer firing down...
Attachments
thankyou for the.... suggestion.. 😛
if this horn works, I will be starting work on a 6.5inch woofer in a horn, to give a 110dB 1w/1m peak at 50hz.. 😀 this equates to 128 or so dB with 70watts input, and a cone excursion of a mear +-2.5mm... the only question is how well will a horn work in a car? 🙂 is it worth me making the 6.5inch horn to enter SPL competitions, or not? thanx.. 🙂
if this horn works, I will be starting work on a 6.5inch woofer in a horn, to give a 110dB 1w/1m peak at 50hz.. 😀 this equates to 128 or so dB with 70watts input, and a cone excursion of a mear +-2.5mm... the only question is how well will a horn work in a car? 🙂 is it worth me making the 6.5inch horn to enter SPL competitions, or not? thanx.. 🙂
I have to correct myself.. I found out my parameters were wrong... I can only get 107dB not 110dB.. hmm thats only 124dB with 70watts... lol 😛
SkinnyBoy said:I have to correct myself.. I found out my parameters were wrong... I can only get 107dB not 110dB.. hmm thats only 124dB with 70watts... lol 😛
horn loading works in cars that have a shape that can benifit from it, typically hatches, though a van has the advantage of being able to fit a larger folded (or even straight) horn enclosure.
I'll be doing this to a customers car (mid sized hatch) early next year, though I'll be using a 10'' or 12'' sub, I'll report the results.
horn loading works in cars that have a shape that can benifit from it, typically hatches, though a van has the advantage of being able to fit a larger folded (or even straight) horn enclosure.
all subs are more effective in cars...can u transpose that to being 'horn' loading on normal subs,and being effective on actual horns too?
Have u tested a horn ,including the cars expansion too? no one i know has.
Very soon im building a horn,and il see how it works in car.in a Sedan.
if one can model the expansion of a car,then one can predict how it will go.
Probably FEA is needed like john sheerins work,except i dont know how to model an enclosure like this.
Attachments
mikee12345 said:
all subs are more effective in cars...can u transpose that to being 'horn' loading on normal subs,and being effective on actual horns too?
Not quite sure what you're getting at here, any sub in the back of a car is in a poorley designed horn, more or less, mounting the sub in an exponential horn designed to use the rest of the car as an extension of the throat can only improve things, though I'm only talking about raw SPL here, I've seen enough ill thought out spl horns to know what not to do😉. I fear sound Q will still suffer compared to sealed enclosures though, we'll have to wait and see.
A horn has Great sound quality dynamics and control
the problem maybe the HIGH spls excite many car resonances/
the only thing i was debating was-do normal subs get 'horn loading'
or is it just 'cabin gain' due to reflections. Definately hatch backs can have higher SPL
I get the box cut today.
Cheers
the problem maybe the HIGH spls excite many car resonances/
the only thing i was debating was-do normal subs get 'horn loading'
or is it just 'cabin gain' due to reflections. Definately hatch backs can have higher SPL
I get the box cut today.
Cheers
mikee12345 said:skinnyboy ur horn takes up ur entire lounge ;-)
mines only 143litres for 40hz🙄
I bet you don't even be able to see my horn once it is inplace.. 😛 lol
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Subwoofers
- ULTIMATE subwoofer challenge... can you do it?