Try 1mm siver in PTFE sleeve with an air gap, beats anything else Iv'e tried. In the UK we call pure silver (FINE) don't use stirling silver
If you think our criterion for speaker cable is that is does not melt then you do not understand that which you criticise. Of course, this is a standard 'debating' trick used by people with no facts on their side: criticise something which people do not believe; so much easier than dealing with the issue.PaleRider said:
No idea what you are talking about. OPT wiring? If so, blindingly obvious.
Not true. Music is mainly about frequency and time - what note was played when? How loud also matters, but is less important. In any case, what has 'dynamics' got to do with speaker cables? (Unless they are nearly melting)
Nonsense. Two sorts of nonsense. Resistance does not limit dynamic range; it affects quite and loud passages equally. Resistance actually affects frequency response, as speakers are not constant loads.
No.
Almost true, but sort of false too. Speaker wiring which has a resistance equal to the nominal speaker impedance will drop the power by about 6dB - so the amp will seem weaker. 6dB is not a big drop in power, so the user will barely notice the power drop. He will notice the disturbance in frequency response, but in some cases may even prefer it!
Short as reasonably possible, yes - because there is no reason to make them longer. Stranded or solid does not matter for electricity, but stranded cables are more flexible to easier to install or move. Designers have not "grasped this" because is it not true. The reason OPT secondaries use solid cable is all about mechanical stability and nothing to do with sound, so no harm whatsoever in continuing with flexible cable.
Is someone offering a prize for the post containing the most audio myths?
Ellipsis (plural ellipses; from the Ancient Greek: ἔλλειψις, élleipsis, "omission" or "falling short") is a series of dots (typically three, such as "…") that usually indicates an intentional omission of a word, sentence, or whole section from a text without altering its original meaning.
Somebody suggested thicker cable is better for speakers, I gave it a try, I must say that regardless of sonics, it is quite inconvenient...
Later, I experimented with very thin wires. I couldn't discern much difference, though it must be said that a crane isn't usually necessary for proper handling. That's a benefit, as far as I can tell.
Someone joins the forum, then makes the first post 3 years lager about snake oil item.
You guys are being gotten by a sleeper troll. 🙄
You guys are being gotten by a sleeper troll. 🙄
#0000 welding cable flexible and readily available .000025 Ohms/ft. Any contractors outlet has suitable bolt on terminations at ~$11 @.
The limit on welding cable is the thin insulation! Typically rated for less than 100 volts and sometimes as low as 30! Some idiots use it for lighting feeds.
As to the resistance of a loudspeaker cable it should be less than 5% of the minimum loudspeaker impedance. The minimum impedance can be as low as one half of the rated impedance.
Now with marginally stable audio power amplifiers the loudspeaker wire can have a real influence. So if increasing the wire spacing in a cable has an effect I would look at the audio power amplifier. If you wish to reduce the charafteristic impedance of the cable the wires should be close to each other.
Now twisting the wire helps to reduce EMI pick up.
I use long cable runs on my systems and cable construction can become an issue. Mostly from the standard approach ignores all the secondary effects of the system.
I just run lengths of bellwire inside an outer shell of thick rubber garden hose . Sounds fine and impresses my "audiophile " vistors when they see my seemingly enormous and obviously expensive cables snaking around the floor . 🙂
If you are truly OCD, and having fun experimenting you can try the following:
Flatten your 1 mm silver wire in a pasta machine or have it done at a local machine shop. Solder it to solid wire to pass into the teflon tubing. Proper diameter will allow just the edges of the wire to contact the teflon.
This theoretically accomplishes two audiophile holy grails...mostly air dielectric and maximizes surface effect.
It is also a hair shirt fragile set up so beware. I'm not sure I could tell a difference, but it was a fun project. (Next project is the Pass vfet amp... awaiting the build guide and parts)
Flatten your 1 mm silver wire in a pasta machine or have it done at a local machine shop. Solder it to solid wire to pass into the teflon tubing. Proper diameter will allow just the edges of the wire to contact the teflon.
This theoretically accomplishes two audiophile holy grails...mostly air dielectric and maximizes surface effect.
It is also a hair shirt fragile set up so beware. I'm not sure I could tell a difference, but it was a fun project. (Next project is the Pass vfet amp... awaiting the build guide and parts)
That is unusual. At 600 volts it is standard power cable. Actually useful for more than welding. Next thing to look for is UL rating.
I did once score a reel of 25mm tri rated switchgear cable from a lab we were building. I used to make roving jump leads off a gert big UPS battery that was otherwise going in the skip. I did think of making some speaker cables out of that but was very silly. Gave it to a mate with a garage in the end and he was chuffed to bits with it.
I also dallied with the idea of Anderson connectors...
I also dallied with the idea of Anderson connectors...
So you attack my *personality* .... I´d rather prefer you attack my *Physics*
Show me a conductor which has higher/improved/better/different frequency response at low audio frequencies or shut up.
I mean *measured* different. 🙄
I'm have to look but there is a UL rating, remember this stuff has become popular for solar installations and I suspect there is enough money involved to make a UL submission to meet codes for large series PV installations.
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