Ultimate DIY cabinet materials?

[evanc]

http://www.fessendenhall.com/pdfs/msds-and-technical-data/wilsonart/Phenolic backer tech data.pdf

http://static.wilsonart.com.cdnga.n...esources/Phenolic Backer Sheets Tech Data.pdf

A shop I had done some work for used thin sheets of this to veneer the backs of panels that weren't seen. Seems to come in a variety of thicknesses,

 

[Face]

Based on my experience I have to disagree with you.
To me Baltic too soft, I would prefer something harder material using some damping material on it.
For small enclosure or colon type Baltic is OK but for larger enclosure I would love to use some harder material. Unfortunately we have not much option, not to many material we can chose for speakers.
For example if we could buy all oak Baltic like 3/4 or 1" thick that would be better, I would prefer over the Baltic.
In Europe you can get oak but not here in N America.
That is my opinion, what I would pick if....

Solid oak is available even in big box stores(HD and Lowes). Specialty places around here have it in many different sizes and thicknesses. http://www.roberts-plywood.com/oak.html

 

[Fitero]

Nice options Evan and Face! More things to read and obsess over.

 

[evanc]

building a cabinet in solid wood is MUCH different from building with sheet goods. You can not stop expansion and contraction across the grain.

 

[Face]

building a cabinet in solid wood is MUCH different from building with sheet goods. You can not stop expansion and contraction across the grain.

I'm well aware of this, which is why I wouldn't use solid wood for an entire enclosure.

 

[gaborbela]

I'm well aware of this, which is why I wouldn't use solid wood for an entire enclosure.

I agree solid oak panels (wood) for side or front is a no no. I wrote ALL OAK Baltic type (plywood), that is total different. Europe some country you can get that type not in N America.
Did I tested solid oak wood (stairs steps) for front panel - yes, and it cracks that to also it has other problem.
Solid wood has resonance (resonate badly) which hard to deal.. If you can deal with that the final result will be better than soft cardboard, plywood ect .....
The best option if someone has time to and want to use oak wood (see the picture) to use it braces at the corners etc. or sandwiched Baltic birch and oak wood (dry) parquet outside on the side panels, tops . A lot of work but you get a very solid enclosure and well damped. You need good quality glue and a lot of clamping one by one each parquet...
If you take a look at my picture I sandwiched the phenolic with Baltic to....for a reason.
Also I would give a try a half inch Baltic aluminium sheet and Baltic sandwich but a lot of work again , would need some special glue good for wood and metal and lot of screws and clamping.. Incredible amount of work.

 

[mayhem13]

PHenolic resin laminated panels are BB core used in the furniture and concrete construction industry. Very easy to find in Europe sold as Europly.

An alternative is called MDO or medium density overlay which is a hardwood ply core with a smooth composite laminate that you can coat with epoxy which makes it VERY hard. Cheaper than Europly and no nasty smell when machining. We use it here for marine use all the time.