Looks like the Cardas xlr connectors are out of stock on the linked website, any ideas on alternate suppliers?
Cardas CM F XLR Chassis XLR, Sonic Craft
Cardas CM F XLR Chassis XLR, Sonic Craft
Warning! Extreme laughter may ensue by reading below...
Yes, the Neutrik XLRs work just dandy. Still haven't decided if I want to flush mount them from the inside or leave them as-is. Would have been way smarter to order 4 instead of 2. I have no idea how I did that.
Onto the funny part. Many of you probably know that the XLRs have to be mounted on only one side of the back panel due to the orientation of the holes. I had both back panels assembled minus the XLRs, and had to take it all apart and reassemble. Yes, I am a dodo.
For those that did not know this little treat... see pic of the "before".
![IMG_2439[5444].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/838/838933-c7d928b8e1a8603b62c2200a16c6f5f7.jpg "IMG_2439[5444].jpg")
And the "after"... two back panels minus one set of XLRs.
![IMG_2440[5443].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/838/838953-626177807eefdca13b33e6adc5798646.jpg "IMG_2440[5443].jpg")
Thankfully, this dodo is consistent and forgot to order some other parts, so the extra XLRs can go with that order.
Those Cardas parts are very nice! I love that the RCAs are inside mount. It makes it so much easier to solder the part and then mount it. That's also why I may move the XLRs to mount flush from the inside.
Edited to add - I remember why I only ordered 2 XLRs, I was thinking balanced monoblocks. Either way, I just can't leave those holes empty. Gotta order 2 more.
Yes, the Neutrik XLRs work just dandy. Still haven't decided if I want to flush mount them from the inside or leave them as-is. Would have been way smarter to order 4 instead of 2. I have no idea how I did that.
Onto the funny part. Many of you probably know that the XLRs have to be mounted on only one side of the back panel due to the orientation of the holes. I had both back panels assembled minus the XLRs, and had to take it all apart and reassemble. Yes, I am a dodo.
For those that did not know this little treat... see pic of the "before".
And the "after"... two back panels minus one set of XLRs.
Thankfully, this dodo is consistent and forgot to order some other parts, so the extra XLRs can go with that order.
Those Cardas parts are very nice! I love that the RCAs are inside mount. It makes it so much easier to solder the part and then mount it. That's also why I may move the XLRs to mount flush from the inside.
Edited to add - I remember why I only ordered 2 XLRs, I was thinking balanced monoblocks. Either way, I just can't leave those holes empty. Gotta order 2 more.
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Well, I'm not recommending you do it but I just took a shot on these I found on eBay that look like the originals, if not, the seller offers 30 day returns....
BTW I offered $70 for 4 pieces and my offer was accepted.
Cardas 4 pin female gold CM F XLR Rodium Contact Surfaces connector | eBay
BTW I offered $70 for 4 pieces and my offer was accepted.
Cardas 4 pin female gold CM F XLR Rodium Contact Surfaces connector | eBay
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Thanks!
Also, with old eyes and good pics, I just noticed that my left channel speaker posts are backwards to the way I like them. DOH! Using just my eyes w/o pics, I never saw the "+" and "-" on the post isolation mounts. I'll try to maybe do a bit of white highlighting. I don't know if it's the normal convention, but I usually wire the "+" posts to the outside. "+" "-" "-" "+" from left to right.
Yes, I know that it only matters re: how I wire them, but ... since they are marked.
I also love that the actual binding posts can be removed and flipped to keep the solder cups oriented per personal choice.
If I do wind up using these chassis for balanced mono-blocks, I'll redo the wiring again anyway. My factory terminated speaker cables won't reach all the way from one side to the other from "+" to "+". So, I go against convention... but I use careful labeling in case I want to switch from balanced to SE. Ask me how I know that I should label things properly lest the old brain that goes with the old eyes forgets the internal wiring scheme.
Yes... dodoness continues.
Also, with old eyes and good pics, I just noticed that my left channel speaker posts are backwards to the way I like them. DOH! Using just my eyes w/o pics, I never saw the "+" and "-" on the post isolation mounts. I'll try to maybe do a bit of white highlighting. I don't know if it's the normal convention, but I usually wire the "+" posts to the outside. "+" "-" "-" "+" from left to right.
Yes, I know that it only matters re: how I wire them, but ... since they are marked.
I also love that the actual binding posts can be removed and flipped to keep the solder cups oriented per personal choice.
If I do wind up using these chassis for balanced mono-blocks, I'll redo the wiring again anyway. My factory terminated speaker cables won't reach all the way from one side to the other from "+" to "+". So, I go against convention... but I use careful labeling in case I want to switch from balanced to SE. Ask me how I know that I should label things properly lest the old brain that goes with the old eyes forgets the internal wiring scheme.
Yes... dodoness continues.
ti ItsAllInMyHead
Hello ItsAllInMyHead,
such little mistakes happen!
I often let my backpanels be made by Schaeffer AG; Berln, Germany = frontpanel express in the States.I use their CAD software to make the cutouts for the Neutriks. Many of the XLR have different cutout-patterns. Many are not only round. Someteimes there are halfround cutouts around the whole in the mid.
A special challenge is to make the cutout for their Headphone-jack....
I like the Neutrik connectors a lot - because of their reasonable price and good quality. There must be a reason, why they are used in studios all over the world.
For sure you can find fancier stuff in this audio world.... and more expensive...
In your special case - I would put in the XLR-jacks and bore the two mounting holes by hand. The wrong holes will be covered...Needs some careful adjustment.
Greets
Dirk
Hello ItsAllInMyHead,
such little mistakes happen!
I often let my backpanels be made by Schaeffer AG; Berln, Germany = frontpanel express in the States.I use their CAD software to make the cutouts for the Neutriks. Many of the XLR have different cutout-patterns. Many are not only round. Someteimes there are halfround cutouts around the whole in the mid.
A special challenge is to make the cutout for their Headphone-jack....
I like the Neutrik connectors a lot - because of their reasonable price and good quality. There must be a reason, why they are used in studios all over the world.
For sure you can find fancier stuff in this audio world.... and more expensive...
In your special case - I would put in the XLR-jacks and bore the two mounting holes by hand. The wrong holes will be covered...Needs some careful adjustment.
Greets
Dirk
Hi Dirk,
You're too kind. The solution was/is to simply mount the XLRs on the "correct" side of the back panel. It look less than 5 mins to reverse everything. Had I mounted the XLRs first, it would have taken even less time. No need to do any further drilling. The back panel was expertly designed by 2 pico Dumbs and expertly crafted by ModuShop. It works perfectly with the "K" type if mounted properly. The deficit was between my ears. Live and learn.
One of my favorite goofs was when building the Iron Pre balanced. I ordered Neutrik "P" profile XLRs and used the "K-type" mounting specs to tap all my holes. While the hole-to-hole spacing is identical to the "K" type, they will sit on a diagonal when mounted and won't fit if the intention was to get them tightly together. That was an expensive mistake. Anyone need some Neutrik "P" mount XLRs?
Another teaser shot of what I think will be the final layout is below. I had to move the PSU boards a bit away from the back to make room for the mighty Schurter power inlet. Just mocking things up to ensure it all fits and will be "clean". I decided to forego the CLCRC at this point. Baby steps. I can add a few caps and inductors later when I get the courage. I am definitely not worthy of the FAB club.
Now, I have to use all my remaining courage for the day to tap my back panels to mount BA-3 input boards. Maybe after a few 100 more taps, I won't find it so daunting.
Hope everyone's having a great day.
Patrick
Edited to add - The toroids aren't quite as close to the output boards as they appear. However, I still may move them toward the center a bit more just for comfort. Stacking with the "cans" isn't really an option.
![IMG_2445[5460].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/844/844392-192af366f918e036d8d91bee6b9b2865.jpg "IMG_2445[5460].jpg")
You're too kind.
The solution was/is to simply mount the XLRs on the "correct" side of the back panel. It look less than 5 mins to reverse everything. Had I mounted the XLRs first, it would have taken even less time. No need to do any further drilling. The back panel was expertly designed by 2 pico Dumbs and expertly crafted by ModuShop. It works perfectly with the "K" type if mounted properly. The deficit was between my ears. Live and learn. One of my favorite goofs was when building the Iron Pre balanced. I ordered Neutrik "P" profile XLRs and used the "K-type" mounting specs to tap all my holes. While the hole-to-hole spacing is identical to the "K" type, they will sit on a diagonal when mounted and won't fit if the intention was to get them tightly together. That was an expensive mistake. Anyone need some Neutrik "P" mount XLRs?
Another teaser shot of what I think will be the final layout is below. I had to move the PSU boards a bit away from the back to make room for the mighty Schurter power inlet. Just mocking things up to ensure it all fits and will be "clean". I decided to forego the CLCRC at this point. Baby steps. I can add a few caps and inductors later when I get the courage. I am definitely not worthy of the FAB club.
Now, I have to use all my remaining courage for the day to tap my back panels to mount BA-3 input boards. Maybe after a few 100 more taps, I won't find it so daunting.
Hope everyone's having a great day.
Patrick
Edited to add - The toroids aren't quite as close to the output boards as they appear. However, I still may move them toward the center a bit more just for comfort. Stacking with the "cans" isn't really an option.
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The deficit was between my ears. Live and learn.
We must be brothers.
Hahahahaha
Thank you!
A quick question for any of you that have used the Cardas RCAs. I happened to get the short ones, and I think I love them save one aspect.
Silly question. Trying to button this amp up today, and I'm unsure of the best (or even a really good) way to solder the GND wire to the jack. I'm used to solder tabs that are mechanically held away from the chassis with the plastic washers similar to below.
It seems a shame to put in something similar when Cardas doesn't ship with anything like that. I thought perhaps the little notches (pic below) were intended to allow a good mechanical connection prior to soldering... but that did not work well at all for me. Are we supposed to use a separate from the kit type of mechanical/solder connection?
Any insight as to the proper method would be greatly appreciated. I'm on the last steps, and this little detail is making me crazy. I'm using relatively fine (28 awg) solid (vs. stranded) input wiring, so I like to be sure as best I can of a proper mechanical joint before soldering... lest they snap and break. I tried searching on the net for solutions, none came up. Like I've said... I never mind looking foolish with odd questions.
A quick question for any of you that have used the Cardas RCAs. I happened to get the short ones, and I think I love them save one aspect.
Silly question. Trying to button this amp up today, and I'm unsure of the best (or even a really good) way to solder the GND wire to the jack. I'm used to solder tabs that are mechanically held away from the chassis with the plastic washers similar to below.
It seems a shame to put in something similar when Cardas doesn't ship with anything like that. I thought perhaps the little notches (pic below) were intended to allow a good mechanical connection prior to soldering... but that did not work well at all for me. Are we supposed to use a separate from the kit type of mechanical/solder connection?
Any insight as to the proper method would be greatly appreciated. I'm on the last steps, and this little detail is making me crazy. I'm using relatively fine (28 awg) solid (vs. stranded) input wiring, so I like to be sure as best I can of a proper mechanical joint before soldering... lest they snap and break. I tried searching on the net for solutions, none came up. Like I've said... I never mind looking foolish with odd questions.
Thank you!
I'll give it another go. For the time-being I wired up the XLRs.
My iron/tip should be powerful enough to transfer and hold enough heat, but perhaps I was a fraidy cat. I did find a recommendation online to perhaps sand off some of the rhodium (if that's what it is) finish to make it easier to solder, but perhaps it just needs to have enough time. With lesser quality connectors, the sleeve for the positive input can melt, so that was my concern. Cardas provides no direction on their site re: heat.
Again, thanks for letting me know that the notch is a viable option.
I'll give it another go. For the time-being I wired up the XLRs.
My iron/tip should be powerful enough to transfer and hold enough heat, but perhaps I was a fraidy cat. I did find a recommendation online to perhaps sand off some of the rhodium (if that's what it is) finish to make it easier to solder, but perhaps it just needs to have enough time. With lesser quality connectors, the sleeve for the positive input can melt, so that was my concern. Cardas provides no direction on their site re: heat.
Again, thanks for letting me know that the notch is a viable option.
LOL! Yep. Those were a bit of a hassle. I took off all the ancillary components, put some SERIOUS heat to them and triple checked.
Again, for those that want to learn from my mistakes... I wanted to solder the posts outside the amp vs. connected inside the amp. The gymnastics required to get a proper joint would have been phenomenal to try and do them with the back panel mounted and the posts in place. My body won't go that way.
So, I soldered the output wire / gnd wire to the posts, then fed them through the back panel, added the appropriate washer / nut, cut to length, then connected the internals to the boards in the chassis.
The only thing to be careful of if you do it this way, is that the nut has very little clearance around the solder cup. So, you can't leave a "knot". It needs to be clean.
If I had it to do all over again, I'd install all the input and output connectors before I installed the back panel, and then solder all the wires appropriately to the connectors on the back panel. Then, I'd install the back panel...
Again, live and learn...
Thanks again for the advice!
Again, for those that want to learn from my mistakes... I wanted to solder the posts outside the amp vs. connected inside the amp. The gymnastics required to get a proper joint would have been phenomenal to try and do them with the back panel mounted and the posts in place. My body won't go that way.
So, I soldered the output wire / gnd wire to the posts, then fed them through the back panel, added the appropriate washer / nut, cut to length, then connected the internals to the boards in the chassis.
The only thing to be careful of if you do it this way, is that the nut has very little clearance around the solder cup. So, you can't leave a "knot". It needs to be clean.
If I had it to do all over again, I'd install all the input and output connectors before I installed the back panel, and then solder all the wires appropriately to the connectors on the back panel. Then, I'd install the back panel...
Again, live and learn...
Thanks again for the advice!
Well, I went through all the dim bulb testing, slowly ramped up everything while checking voltages with the Variac, initially biased the front end, and initially biased the output stage. I buttoned up the chassis, so I can set the final biases, null the offsets, and let it cook.
I am ashamed of the rat's nest of wiring. I thought I had my dressing planned well. It will need to be revisited. I'm also considering moving the front end to a mezzanine perhaps over the PSUs. For another day...
Progress pic.
I am ashamed of the rat's nest of wiring. I thought I had my dressing planned well. It will need to be revisited. I'm also considering moving the front end to a mezzanine perhaps over the PSUs. For another day...
Progress pic.
Sod that mate.
- Power on and no smoke - check.
- Music out - check.
- Crack beer - check.
- Kick back and enjoy - check.
- Sort out wiring tidiness? - meh, L8R.