Ok, that's not going on a common plate, no inverted mounting. Lots of volts there
Will stick with regular mounting and a case fan instead. Running with temp control from the pins somehow will be nice. Hmmm, this will mean a strong fan and case filters and sound dampening. I think it is very doable, I am versed with fluid flow as I also work with ducted thrust RC models
I don't know much about switches. I need options for a classy push button, preferably in gold colour tones, that can replace the standby switch and be remotely mounted to the front panel of the case. Case parts dimensions should be one that can be easily accommodated on most 3D printers and home CNC kits. I can print whole chassis up to 40 x 40 x 45 cm and CNC machine 30 x 18 x 4.5 cm in 3 axis and laser cut/engrave same size for anyone interested. Would like to take the laser module from the CNC and fit it to the printer for 40 x 40 cm work area 🙂
The Eric1v3 has a nice low profile and would be a shame to lose this with a tall case for a dedicated poweramp chassis, so I propose a CD-ROM drive type form factor for total size. Still retail a baseplate that is also the access panel, but board fitted right side up
The fan will draw air through the base via a filter and exit ducts along the rear bottom edge. I can design and make the filters to be easily removable chassis parts. I have one option for a fan, but will need a voltage uperer to run of the 12v connector on the Eric1v3
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004441985613.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.7eac38daq9pL0Z&mp=1
Yes, that was a good pickup. How are you fitting this amp?
Link is in another thread where I requested opinions on it and went mostly ignored. It's also one of many types available with varying capabilities. This one, is a higher end option. Was looking forward to discussing the ergonomics....
I’m putting three in a Galaxy 2U 230 chassis from the diyAudio store. Barebones build. Short standoffs, one underpowered fan per module over the heatsink, IEC mains and switch at the back. I’ll be using it for 3-way crossover work with DSP. I know it will sound good based on using one module for a couple weeks in my main system.
Yes that's correct, it's for our living area home studio desk. I will build it to a level of fit, finish and sturdiness where a nice bar would lust to proudly install and display this as their house system. I started out in a career in fishing tackle manufacture of customising to individual requirements, but then very quickly transitioned to developing and introducing my own range and built brand presence buy use of design themes and colour themes and placed items on the top shelf with use of high-end components and a design that excelled at what it promised in the hands of journalist reviewers. I do believe there are times to develop one's own ideas, and I enjoy taking details to extraordinary lengths of execution. Some products falter, but some create a niche for which they become indispensable. I also enjoy the process of creating a niche
I mostly use FL Studio to program and tune drum tracks and play along with my bass. For recording, I use Audacity at the moment. I have installed Ableton and looking to do the course, but haven't really had time to mess with that yet. I am currently using a Samsung laptop with i7 CPU. I am not enjoying windows experience post Windows 7 (took off Windows 10 and installed 7). On the other hand, I have had zero troubles with iPhones and looking to move to Mac. GarageBand on iPhone is a bit limited but sufficient. Uffornica HS will be placed as an analog pre add-on and amplification module for DAW and digital interface. I think as more details on routing and things become apparent, I would love to welcome your thoughts on the DAW integration
Thank you for sharing the details of your setup. It is very impressive in capability. I agree that you do not appear to value form over function 😛
No disrespect intended with the above, though. I feel alive with my senses and notice every little detail in everything. I enjoy shopping for my wife and spend hours pouring over garments. We are also launching an Indian apparel brand and business for her and I will be the creative designer. The items are over the top music video item songs costumes types where we will name the price
That's true, it will be complex. I will try to make it as efficient as possible if it ever comes to a point where I need to replicate it. Most of the modules on the desk are for testing each other and proving concepts for various sections. My intention is to design my own channel strip PCBs. I have been working on the tube pre and eq circuits for my analog channels. The channel strips feed an active summing and four channels of tiny tube power amplifiers that provide the headphone outputs as well as pass on the signal to the class D poweramps. All these tube circuits will be on custom PCBs and run off a common SMPS, again a custom model. The 5.1 one decoder board needs 9-24v DC, so can run off an aux supply connector. The poweramps e.g. Eric1v3 have integrated PSU. The other power amp modules in that pile of parts are for the surround channels, and if I am lucky I wouldn't have issues as they will have their own PSU, and hopefully they will play well together. If not, then there is plenty of scope to implement changes
What is your opinion of printed and shielded sub enclosures that plug into a bus line connector. Basically enclosed volumes under each channel strip. Functional on their own or plug together in a common chassis to the potential of the full Homestage. Most parts will be 3D printed and laminated inside for screening and outside for aesthetics
My real difficulty will be keeping things noise free for the PCB audio and power bus traces and all the pots and LED's that will be used and such. I hope that you will have some helpful hints there once you see the circuit networks forming
Thanks and regards
Randy
Lots of power, I like 🙂 I am seriously considering bi amping my fronts once the higher powered modules are out. I could do with a 1k each side for my intended woofers, as they have a 600wrms rating and I enjoy using amps with massive reserve ability. I don't know if it's imagined, but I feel I can hear that dynamic range ability even at lower listening levels, which are more frequent. Do you think you will change up to the Eric2 or Eric3 at some point? Have you ordered your chassis already? Looks good with plenty of modification potential. Please share some pics with the boards laid out inside and the space around the parts
Sorry about so many questions. Thanks and regards
Randy
It looks like the semiconductor devices mounted on the heat sinks have some sort of isolation between the device and the heat sink. If I were using these modules, I would carefully examine the circuitry to see if the sinks have been left floating. Measuring between the two sinks, or one sink and anything on the board would read an open on a resistance measurement if this is the case. The high input impedance of the AV voltage measurement could be giving you a false reading. The voltage seen and felt here could be due to capacitive coupling, and it may be possible to ground the heat sinks if the resistance is infinite, AND the isolation barrier between the active devices and the sink is sufficient for the high voltage that could be found on the tab of one or more of the devices.
Having an ungrounded heat sink is similar to connecting a small antenna to a high powered multi frequency transmitter and one of the reasons that you may have trouble with multiple noise generators, each running at a different, and probably non constant frequency.
Already have the chassis. I posted a pic in the original swap meet thread.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/2x150w-amp-module-for-sale.388868/post-7153402
These modules have enough power for my use case. I’ll not need more.
Sorry, I must have mixed up with the conversation re the difficult speakers from someone else. I hop you dont mind that I repost your image here
And I hope you don't mind some questions. Air routing, in and out, how are you implementing that? That case has good space for those three boards and some for the 5.1 decoder board that I am using. Good potential to build an HT receiver for folks
No worries. I ordered the full vented top and bottom plates for the Galaxy 2U 330x230 chassis. Plenty of holes for airflow. Note that there is just enough room for this setup. If one wanted to add more things in the chassis, I would recommend going up a size to the 280 mm deep option for more wiggle room. I had considered a shoebox-like arrangement in a narrow 3U with the modules stacked or on their sides, but I prefer this layout. More than three modules would require 3U or a much wider 2U chassis.
I will test with the fans blowing downward into the modules first. If the modules still get hot, I’ll try the fans in the opposite direction. If needed, I’ll try up and down, too. I doubt I’ll have any heat trouble, regardless. In open air, one module equilibrated at about 50C on the bigger sink, so I expect just a little airflow will go a long way.
I will test with the fans blowing downward into the modules first. If the modules still get hot, I’ll try the fans in the opposite direction. If needed, I’ll try up and down, too. I doubt I’ll have any heat trouble, regardless. In open air, one module equilibrated at about 50C on the bigger sink, so I expect just a little airflow will go a long way.
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The master volume knob for Uffornica arrived. I don't know, it doesn't look as glittery as the pics in the ad
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000027545583.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.411d1802UaaCs0
It also feels smaller than I expected and feels too light. I'll have to make one to suit
A prolonged wound recovery care program is really taking a toll on my ability to make progress. The bi-daily disturbance needs a bit of settling down and gives MAD a nice workout
I think I have most of the parts now to make a custom stereo poweramp case for the Eric1v3 for my temp use. I am a bit sick of seeing metal cases everywhere and very basic use of wood. As there are plenty of well-made metal options out there, my design has a different look and more of a musical instrument look and feel and has a decorative upper blank control panel plate. This panel can be used for fitting a tube based front end, either like a hi-fi buffer or instrument pre, and enough space for a channel strip. This description here is a picture painted in words and direct MAD output, so I hope it makes sense
I am also torn between the two speaker box visual theme, whether to sculpture my Apsara dancing torso or classical Veena styling. The Veena look takes the required two internal volumes and long ports well, while on the Apsara torso look, the truncated arms can disguise the long ports. Either will result in a total 22L internal volume and 18L for the woofer and 4L for the coaxial sub volumes. I am thinking the artise on the Apsara would form the most different looking speaker cloth/grill ever 🙂
Hi, Randy
Apologize for coming back late, suddenly rush into a busy project.
1. I think it can be mounted with the PCB on the top (as you mentioned in the upside-down version). But be sure of the safety concerns. The TO247 MOSFET heatsink comes from the primary side, which means you cannot put these two heatsink together unless you use the thermal pad for this primary heatsink, and keep its thickness height at least 3mm. During my test, I think the amplifier MOSFET heatsink will get much higher than the PSU heatsink.( I think this will answer your second question)
3. I think there is no worry about the disconnected speaker, the amp can function ok with no load. Btw, it can survive with an output short scenario.
Thanks,
Eric
Yes, safety is first.
Specially, we have the PSU integrated for this module. Be careful about it, if you're not sure, please drop a message.
Yes, I agree here. With the cooling fan inside, there will be no worries about the thermal issue 🙂
Thanks for confirming, man. Don't fret about taking time to respond. You are a busy man and actually in my opinion going out of your way already. I can see you stand behind and love your product. I can appreciate that
I will mount it in the conventional manner, no upside down trickery 🙂
Another question, is there any technical drawing of the Eric1v3 and the buffer board? Something that I can use to cut mounting holes? I want to paste that to my print and cut files
Hi, Randy
Please let me know if below picture meet your requirement or not.
Thanks
Eric
And, I'll re-check with my PCB engineer, to see if he has the dxf or dwg file for you. Is that what you need?
Thanks,Eric
Eric, that gives me the centres of the holes for mounting the PCB and the distance apart for the XLR. I would like to know the height above PCB lower edge for the XLR centres please. Too wobbly to measure
I had a minor scalpel procedure without local today, so spending the rest of the day stationary. Today will be all about designing the case in FreeCAD. Tentative dimensions that I am working on are:
Case: ABS/silk/foil sandwich
Width.....170mm
Height....85mm
Depth.....200mm
Plate inlays
Front.....W 165mm x H 80mm Tempered glass/PU/Acrylic/foil sandwich
Rear.......W 165mm x H 80mm Tempered glass/PU/Acrylic/foil sandwich
Top........W 150mm x D 180mm Tempered glass/PU/Acrylic/foil sandwich
Base.....W 150mm x D 180mm PU/Acrylic/foil sandwich
Alternate inlay surfacing layer choice is high quality Formica. Body silk is red, blue or an interesting black. Cosmetic highlights in goldtone
Standard Mounting allocations
Baseplate.......... Eric1v3 board inverted, fan, filter
Front inlay........ Standby switch, badge
Rear inlay......... IO buffer ports, speakon, power
Top inlay.......... IO buffer board inverted, Pass H2, graphic art sub inlay
I have decided to have a Pass H2 fitment as a standard mounting option and will sit inverted under the top inlay in a pocket
Optional mounting allocations
Front inlay....... Volume, tone, VU, LCD, headphone, aux in, USB
Rear inlay......... TRS, RCA, antenna, USB, optical, Sub out
Top inlay.......... Tube socket, channel strip, VU, switches, LCD, device dock
All fasteners are hidden except for baseplate. Board, fan and filter comes off with baseplate. The top inlay also allows removing board without removing baseplate. Removing top inlay allows access to remove front and rear inlays. This may be changed to front access fasteners, but while that would make for easier assembly, it would look bad. Case body will be laminated and stitched. Assembly work will only require fastening all the precut inlays with the use of machine screws into threaded case holes
Feet
Undecided
Standby switch
Don't know enough about switches to choose
Speakon
I haven't looked up if there are any standards or conventions to follow with these terminals. I do not like the use of banana posts for a pro build or some sleepy head placing a metal flute or mic behind the case on the desk. I have been a bit too occupied to chase up the info on the speakons. Does anyone have a primer to summarise?
Foil
I have options to include a foil in the sandwich as the final inside face. Choices are iron, aluminium and copper. Copper is prettiest, and iron may rust and require some sort of inhibitor. What are the pros and cons of these choices. I would like to settle on one and will use copper unless someone advises otherwise
Further shielding
I propose an optional shield plate over the amp board too so that it is in its own sub enclosure if other front end circuitry is used. I am including a step in the body for this. Once this is used, the fan will only duct into the amp board though
All these are my starting points for the CAD file. These are still under discussion as I can update the design on the fly
Preamp
I have made a standard mounting pocket for the Pass H2 as a flavour element to class D, This pocket can be used for other PCBs and can be customised, but I would rather not eff around too much and hope we can pick a design from a forum member and support him by making it a standard fitting option
Tubes
Plenty of space to get a nice tube pre on the top inlay. A goldtone laser cut cover basket is the only option that I will make
Intellectual property/ terms of use
The standard electronic components, connectors and fasteners are covered by terms of use from the suppliers. The case, inlays and general arrangement is the intellectual property of Bassinga. The case and inlays are free to be used and modified as required. They can be ordered from anyone who can make it or DIY'ed. The badge must feature on the front inlay when the colour dressed original case and inlay blanks are used
Design name
Here I would prefer to give a shout-out to this forum on this design. Coming across people like Eric and all those members over the years who have freely educated are the only things that make projects like this possible. This amp should have the word diyAudio on the front panel, and I can execute this tastefully. If a mod is reading this, could you please pass it on to the admin?
I name the design; Bassinga DIY - Eric1 Homestage or Eric1 HS for short
Design files
Hosted in this thread and GPL license
Aesthetic details
I would prefer that the case aesthetics are followed. I will provide a variety of ways to dress the case and inlays in the standard colours in a variety of materials, except for silk and my recipe of glass laminate. All the alternative materials can achieve equal levels of form and function and their use is already in the public domain
Discussion
All aspects are open to discussion. I also have another project like this in the works based on all DIY parts called the Parrot amp coming up, but we'll leave that for that thread. Just something to mull on and think about what can be achieved with unlimited imagination and exercise your MAD