Hi Christian,
You should get about that kind of power, be careful with the rail voltage, though, it should not under any circumstances exced the maximum of +/- 50 Volts DC.
The way I went about it was to ensure the mains voltage is stabilised via a UPS, this has the added advantage of controlled power supply. I used an APC 1400 VA UPS, this was £65.00 via Ebay. On connecting the UPS I have found that the soundstage is even better, with more definition and clarity.
For the rectifier: just a simple bridge will do, I used in total 20,000 uF per rail, and this is more than adequate.
In my case I got 110 Watts into 8Ohms, with a rail voltage of +/- 47 Volts DC.
You should get about that kind of power, be careful with the rail voltage, though, it should not under any circumstances exced the maximum of +/- 50 Volts DC.
The way I went about it was to ensure the mains voltage is stabilised via a UPS, this has the added advantage of controlled power supply. I used an APC 1400 VA UPS, this was £65.00 via Ebay. On connecting the UPS I have found that the soundstage is even better, with more definition and clarity.
For the rectifier: just a simple bridge will do, I used in total 20,000 uF per rail, and this is more than adequate.
In my case I got 110 Watts into 8Ohms, with a rail voltage of +/- 47 Volts DC.
Thanks alot for the answer. 🙂
I am most likely going dual mono with one Hypex ST PSU for each UCD 180 🙂
Regards,
Christian
I am most likely going dual mono with one Hypex ST PSU for each UCD 180 🙂
Regards,
Christian
Arty123 said:
May I ask how you got 47 volts dc out of a 30 volt ac secondary?
30(sec.) x 1.4(ac to dc) = 42 -.7(diode drop) = 41.3 (around) ??
Either your UPS is running high or your x-former is not 30 volts on the secondary..
I'm planning on doing the same, but i'm wondering if maybe using one Hypex HG power supply will yield a better result (sound quality wise)Neutrality said:
(i'm planning on using two tr101 or tr 104's)
rabstg said:
You forgot to add the % of regulation. The transformer will be at rated voltage only with correct line voltage and full load. With no load or the amp idling the output will raise 10-15% in a typical transformer of this V/A rating.
Roger
rabstg said:
I get about 46VDC from 30VAC transformer and i have double rectifiers. I have 235VAC in mains.
rabstg said:
What Roger said, and also mains variations, and also, there's two diodes conducting in the bridge at any given time.
My secondaries were rated at 31Vac and primary at 115V, I operate on 120Vac mains and get around 45.5 to 46.5 idle and 47.5 while loaded with the module connected but disabled.
Transformer regulation in my case is 5% and I'm willing to bet that's more of a "measurement of thumb" they use and not totally accurate.
"around" is very correct, these calculations are for a close ballpark, and secondaries need to be chosen so that rails can't exceed max under worse case conditions, which are while unloaded and at 10% mains overvoltage. So that means if you're transformer has a load regulation of 5%, you need a 15% margin in total.
jedel said:
Yes, been wondering about that myself, but then it wont be dual mono, hmm
The ideal would be something like the Hypex ST PSU but with the BHC slitfoil caps and the other upgrades you get from the HG PSU.
Wonder if they do a small custom order? hehe
Regards,
Christian
Neutrality said:
Wouldn't that be like buying a bridge rectifier from them...? (OK and some spade connectors...)
This is a DIY forum guys.. Come on you can solder a bridge rectifier and some capacitors together?
Ed
ewildgoose said:
Thanks for making me smile Ed.
It's become a little easy with these modules, hasn't it.
On the other hand, if that's the biggest complaint Hypex has... 😀
ewildgoose said:
No, actually a bit more than just a rectifier and connectors, you would have DC protection and pop-free start-up and shutdown so you would not have to worry about that yourself 🙂
ghemink said:
I dont' see how the supply provides pop free start up /shutdown, it seems to be a non issue already anyway. I'll give you the DC protection though.
classd4sure said:
The supply can control the standby pin of the modules, switching the modules on/off when AC from the transformer comes in or goes away.
Of the UcD400 modules I have, the switch on behavior is very good, switch of should be no issue for passive speakers but I don't want to risk my tweeters as it has clearly audible sounds during switch-off. Still using UcD180 for mids and tweeters and switch on/off behaviour for those modules is perfect. I don't use the standby/mute pin for the UcD180.
Best regards
Gertjan
It contains a time delay circuit built in which you can attach to the "on" lines on the modules. This means you can mute the modules while the powersupply is powering up and discharging. Basically works out as an extra transistor
Ed W
Ed W
I have an amp here with the latest UcD400 revision + the HG PS - there's nothing heard from the speakers at on or off, absolutely quiet.
The HG switches off the 400's at the moment the mains power is turned off - with the 400's this avoids very strange shut down noises (like whistling/bird sounds of some sort)
I'm sure the 180's have the same behaviour.
The HG switches off the 400's at the moment the mains power is turned off - with the 400's this avoids very strange shut down noises (like whistling/bird sounds of some sort)
I'm sure the 180's have the same behaviour.
ewildgoose said:
A DIY forum it might be, but I cant solder to save my life 😀
Regards,
Christian
there is a HUGE difference from going out and buying a completely built and designed amp vs. putting together a modular design such as a UCD.
even if you bought the transofrmer, built power supply, amp module and case, it would still take a bit of know-how and time to put it togehter that the majority of the population wouldnt be able to or want to do. THAT is why its still DIY, even if you dont use a soldering iron... its just a lesser version.
i mean, do you press your own PCB's, etch them yourself, hand drill them, turn and tap your own screws, face mill your panels for your case, pull your own wire, etc... at what level is it TRUE diy?
even if you bought the transofrmer, built power supply, amp module and case, it would still take a bit of know-how and time to put it togehter that the majority of the population wouldnt be able to or want to do. THAT is why its still DIY, even if you dont use a soldering iron... its just a lesser version.
i mean, do you press your own PCB's, etch them yourself, hand drill them, turn and tap your own screws, face mill your panels for your case, pull your own wire, etc... at what level is it TRUE diy?
Yes,
Even when it's only "putting together" components, it still feels different than just laying down the green in some store and taking home a new toy...
Everytime you turn your DIY amp on (even if it's just modules & PS slapped together), it feels like your "baby".
I might even go so far to say that it sounds "better", because of the psychological factor of building it?
Even when it's only "putting together" components, it still feels different than just laying down the green in some store and taking home a new toy...
Everytime you turn your DIY amp on (even if it's just modules & PS slapped together), it feels like your "baby".
I might even go so far to say that it sounds "better", because of the psychological factor of building it?
Yves Smolders said:
Seems to me that's a novelty factor that could wear off quickly if it's not truly a good amp, or say, when the smoke starts to pour out.
What happens when the smoke does pour out, who built it then? lol.
Lego style building is far less DIY than making your own PCB's however I can't help but feel the threshold of DIY lies with what you let stand in your way from achieving your goal.
I can't blame ED for drawing that line at a simple PSU.
What makes people think the STD PSU wouldnt' be good enough anyway? I've no doubt it's 100X better than any commercially mass produced off the shelf junk you've heard.
Then you have the factor of, how exactly DIY is it if your amp looks exactly like every other? I suppose that view would depend on one's own ability.
Either way you learn alot more by getting your hands dirty.
I have nothing against buying the pre-built powersupplies! They are far more reliable and less likely to be a fire risk than something I solder from discrete parts... Also they include lots of nice features like the DC protection and the anti-pop stuff.
My point was more that if you buy one and take off the caps to put on better ones then really you might as well just start from scratch....
In fact my project is more about DSP and building active crossovers - so building the amps is just something which gets in the way of me doing the DIY bit which interests me!
See here: http://www.duffroomcorrection.com/wiki/User:Ed_Wildgoose
My apologies if I trod on someones toes by suggesting they don't use the pre-built powersupply (I know I wish I had!)
Ed
My point was more that if you buy one and take off the caps to put on better ones then really you might as well just start from scratch....
In fact my project is more about DSP and building active crossovers - so building the amps is just something which gets in the way of me doing the DIY bit which interests me!
See here: http://www.duffroomcorrection.com/wiki/User:Ed_Wildgoose
My apologies if I trod on someones toes by suggesting they don't use the pre-built powersupply (I know I wish I had!)
Ed