Re: hybrid UcD
You could have mentioned that in the previous post...johnrtd said:The price now is 1250 Euro is you can see in our price list. And yes, it's a d-i-y kit.
John
I have a few questions about the Ucd180 if I may.
1.)Are all the modules(ST,HG) capacitively coupled at their inputs.?
2.)I recently had a look at an OEM version with the pins labeled differently than the ST version.
INC - is this the noninverted input?
INH - inverted input?does this get grounded when using a single ended input?
What are pins CL1 and C/D for?
Thanks Fred
1.)Are all the modules(ST,HG) capacitively coupled at their inputs.?
2.)I recently had a look at an OEM version with the pins labeled differently than the ST version.
INC - is this the noninverted input?
INH - inverted input?does this get grounded when using a single ended input?
What are pins CL1 and C/D for?
Thanks Fred
Awesome! thanks BWRX.I looked for that specific data sheet online but could only locate another version of the OEM which has completely different pinouts and labeling.BWRX said:The datasheet may help answer your questions: http://www.hypex.nl/docs/UcD180OEM datasheet.pdf
You might like to check with Hypex, but I think you will find that the version illustrated on that data sheet has been superseded by a newer version, which uses a 36 way double row 0.1" pin header in place of the 10 way 0.156" Molex header illustrated.
I'm sure Jan Peter can confirm the status of the UCD180OEM, if you drop him an email at Hypex.
I'm sure Jan Peter can confirm the status of the UCD180OEM, if you drop him an email at Hypex.
This is the new UcD180OEM;
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/UcD180OEMdatasheetnewstyle.pdf
For questions about the module, you better send the questions direct to info@hypex.nl
It's a module only for manufactures....
Regards,
Jan-Peter
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/UcD180OEMdatasheetnewstyle.pdf
For questions about the module, you better send the questions direct to info@hypex.nl
It's a module only for manufactures....
Regards,
Jan-Peter
UCD180 for TJL2W?
I am planning to build a DIY amplifier based on the Hypex modules. Is the UCD180 modules a good choice to my DIY speakers (Troels Gravesen TJL2W) or should I choose the UCD400 modules or something else?
Links:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/TJL_2W.htm
I am planning to build a DIY amplifier based on the Hypex modules. Is the UCD180 modules a good choice to my DIY speakers (Troels Gravesen TJL2W) or should I choose the UCD400 modules or something else?
Links:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/TJL_2W.htm
Member
Joined 2003
This should be simple calculations that you can carry out yourself.
-Simulate the bass driver in the cabinet, and find it's max power handling due to excursion. Look up Unibox, or WinISD for loudspeaker cabinet simulations.
-Calculate maximum acoustic output with the maximum input power available from your amp (the same simulation software will be able to do this fro you).
From the gathered above information, you should be able to decide which amp will suite your needs.
Good luck.
-Simulate the bass driver in the cabinet, and find it's max power handling due to excursion. Look up Unibox, or WinISD for loudspeaker cabinet simulations.
-Calculate maximum acoustic output with the maximum input power available from your amp (the same simulation software will be able to do this fro you).
From the gathered above information, you should be able to decide which amp will suite your needs.
Good luck.
Major problems with UCD-180
Hi all,
I am an engineering student at Purdue University- and I have just finished a transmission line subwoofer for a senior design project.
Because the UCD-180 is somewhat proprietary, I figured that I'd ask the experts.
I was very pleased with the results up until today when the amplifier stopped amplifying bass and just repeatedly clicked on-and-off (accompanied by the blue LED doing the same.) This only stops when I remove the load.
Thinking that the load was shorted, I connected the output to a known load- and still the same problem.
There is no music- just either a hum or loud clicking.
Here are the specs of my setup:
2 Velodyne VLF series woofers mounted "push-pull" style into a transmission line (the paralleled impedance is roughly 3 Ohms at its worst.)
The amplifier is being fed by an Adcom GCD-750 with a max 3V PP output- and into an op-amp based buffer/attenuator.
The amplifier measured 50VDC at the +-rails while it was doing this.
I played this setup for roughly 20 hours before this happened.
I have to present this in about a week, PLEASE HELP!!
Hi all,
I am an engineering student at Purdue University- and I have just finished a transmission line subwoofer for a senior design project.
Because the UCD-180 is somewhat proprietary, I figured that I'd ask the experts.
I was very pleased with the results up until today when the amplifier stopped amplifying bass and just repeatedly clicked on-and-off (accompanied by the blue LED doing the same.) This only stops when I remove the load.
Thinking that the load was shorted, I connected the output to a known load- and still the same problem.
There is no music- just either a hum or loud clicking.
Here are the specs of my setup:
2 Velodyne VLF series woofers mounted "push-pull" style into a transmission line (the paralleled impedance is roughly 3 Ohms at its worst.)
The amplifier is being fed by an Adcom GCD-750 with a max 3V PP output- and into an op-amp based buffer/attenuator.
The amplifier measured 50VDC at the +-rails while it was doing this.
I played this setup for roughly 20 hours before this happened.
I have to present this in about a week, PLEASE HELP!!
I think you answered your own question.
Look at the data sheet for the maximum allowable rail voltage. You are right at it. Due to component tolerance there is some variance in where the overvoltage protection kicks-in and the line voltage may vary slightly throughout the day.
I use dual 30V secondaries on all my UcD180 builds. The primaries are based upon 115V so even with 130VAC you have no more than 46-47V on the rails.
Get online to Parts Express and order Part #: 122-630
It should get to you tomorrow if ordered today and you will have time to head down to the square and pound a couple beers before your project is due.
Kevin Haskins
Look at the data sheet for the maximum allowable rail voltage. You are right at it. Due to component tolerance there is some variance in where the overvoltage protection kicks-in and the line voltage may vary slightly throughout the day.
I use dual 30V secondaries on all my UcD180 builds. The primaries are based upon 115V so even with 130VAC you have no more than 46-47V on the rails.
Get online to Parts Express and order Part #: 122-630
It should get to you tomorrow if ordered today and you will have time to head down to the square and pound a couple beers before your project is due.
Kevin Haskins
If you are right on the edge of the limit you can put a CL60 in series with the incoming AC and use a CRC pwr supply to drop the voltage a few volts.
I had to do the same thing. That is AFTER I decided to stop using the variac. 😉
I had to do the same thing. That is AFTER I decided to stop using the variac. 😉
Thank you for your reply.............
What you say makes good sense.
I am baffled, however, why it worked for that long- and now it doesn't.
Anyway, thanks for the suggestion.
What you say makes good sense.
I am baffled, however, why it worked for that long- and now it doesn't.
Anyway, thanks for the suggestion.
Another question...............
If high PSU voltage is the culprit, then how is it that when I remove the load, the toggling stops?
I'm not arguing, I just want to make sure that you are aware of everything.
If high PSU voltage is the culprit, then how is it that when I remove the load, the toggling stops?
I'm not arguing, I just want to make sure that you are aware of everything.
OK..............
I am going to check-out a variac from the school inventory tonight.
I'll let you know.
I am going to check-out a variac from the school inventory tonight.
I'll let you know.
No dice....................
I brought home a variac tonight- and reduced the primary voltage to 110V.
With this, I saw 46VDC on the plus and minus rails.
The issue's still there.
Could I possibly have a shorted coupling cap from the buffer to the UCD modulator??
Anyway, I have another module on it's way- but I doubt it'll be here in time.
I brought home a variac tonight- and reduced the primary voltage to 110V.
With this, I saw 46VDC on the plus and minus rails.
The issue's still there.
Could I possibly have a shorted coupling cap from the buffer to the UCD modulator??
Anyway, I have another module on it's way- but I doubt it'll be here in time.
First of all, I'd like to thank Frank from Hypex for helping me solve the problem I'm having.
It turns-out that the issue was not the amplifier module at all.
Here's the story,
After getting home last night, I pulled apart the amplifiers once again and found that when I powered it up- I got a whopping 15VDC on the output of the active filter that I'm using.
I immediately swapped the low pass inputs to the high pass side and found that the Hypex module once again performed flawlessly.
When I get home tonight, I have to figure-out why I'm getting the full rail voltage for the op-amps showing-up at the low pass output. It could be something as simple as a hairlike strand of output wire bridging to the +VCC.
In short, the pumping issue I was getting was the fault of the filter sourcing 15V at the output- and not the amplifier itself. In fact, the amplifier did exactly what it was supposed to do under those conditions; shut down.
The engineers at Hypex have truly made these products "idiot proof."
BTW, The progress of this project from concept to reality has been posted on Diyaudio in the "full-range" speaker section under "I need some advice". I am going to post my final report (required for graduation)- on the same thread as well. Check it out!!
Thanks to all
It turns-out that the issue was not the amplifier module at all.
Here's the story,
After getting home last night, I pulled apart the amplifiers once again and found that when I powered it up- I got a whopping 15VDC on the output of the active filter that I'm using.
I immediately swapped the low pass inputs to the high pass side and found that the Hypex module once again performed flawlessly.
When I get home tonight, I have to figure-out why I'm getting the full rail voltage for the op-amps showing-up at the low pass output. It could be something as simple as a hairlike strand of output wire bridging to the +VCC.
In short, the pumping issue I was getting was the fault of the filter sourcing 15V at the output- and not the amplifier itself. In fact, the amplifier did exactly what it was supposed to do under those conditions; shut down.
The engineers at Hypex have truly made these products "idiot proof."
BTW, The progress of this project from concept to reality has been posted on Diyaudio in the "full-range" speaker section under "I need some advice". I am going to post my final report (required for graduation)- on the same thread as well. Check it out!!
Thanks to all
cadaverdog said:
The engineers at Hypex have truly made these products "idiot proof."
Thanks to all
Never underestimate the genius of an idiot
UCD100OEM
Would OEM versions available to the DIY community? The UCD100 looks really nice for multi-amp/active crossover applications
Would OEM versions available to the DIY community? The UCD100 looks really nice for multi-amp/active crossover applications
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