This thread bares an uncanny resemblance to a thread over on AVSforum.com others might be interested in reading.
Peavey IPR class D amps - Page 4 - AVS Forum
Bassically, Peavey have just released a new amp called the IPR1600, it is a Class-D/SMPS proaudio power amp. The interesting thing is that the designer is in the thread swatting off all the armchair engineers trying to have a dig at his design.
The thread is a bit long (15 pages) the designer "SickNeedsHelp" starts commenting around page 4.
enjoy.
col.
Peavey IPR class D amps - Page 4 - AVS Forum
Bassically, Peavey have just released a new amp called the IPR1600, it is a Class-D/SMPS proaudio power amp. The interesting thing is that the designer is in the thread swatting off all the armchair engineers trying to have a dig at his design.
The thread is a bit long (15 pages) the designer "SickNeedsHelp" starts commenting around page 4.
enjoy.
col.
Surprinsing thread, although I've not yet read every thing.
I'm running both 41Hz and Connexelectronics modules and I'm very happy with both.
I'm more than satisfied with two AMP9-Basic, one AMP6 and my Truepath works very well too (the other one still being on the bench since almost years) I also ran AMP5 that, for some strange reason, died but I really liked it.
On the other hand, my Connex TA3020 v1, used daily since more than one year works like a charm. I'm now looking for more efficent power supply for the DA-1 and have absolutely no critics about these amplifiers. TA3020-v1 has evolved a bit. This shows that Cristi is listening at various comments and improves what he is selling. Same for 41Hz kits having different revisions. So what? Does it reflects sometihng wrong? I don't think so.
To me, purpose is different.
I decided to buy TA3020 and DA-1 from Connex because goal was to have modules mounted and tested, ready to be used while I build different 41Hz kits for the fun of assembling. Here you can decide to fine tune and use customized components. Different approach and different purpose 😉
I understand from this thread there is some competition to promote one Tripath vs. the other and don't feel this kind of debate, at least done this way is very useful for other members. There is too much affective inside.
I would say that if goal is to have fun building the "best" amplifier, tuned to match your power supply, pre-amp etc..., go for 41Hz
If goal is to use Tripath module alerady build (and BTW well done) and ready to run almost out of the box, Connexelectronics module is perfect. You can even look at different version matching your needs.
I'm running both 41Hz and Connexelectronics modules and I'm very happy with both.
I'm more than satisfied with two AMP9-Basic, one AMP6 and my Truepath works very well too (the other one still being on the bench since almost years) I also ran AMP5 that, for some strange reason, died but I really liked it.
On the other hand, my Connex TA3020 v1, used daily since more than one year works like a charm. I'm now looking for more efficent power supply for the DA-1 and have absolutely no critics about these amplifiers. TA3020-v1 has evolved a bit. This shows that Cristi is listening at various comments and improves what he is selling. Same for 41Hz kits having different revisions. So what? Does it reflects sometihng wrong? I don't think so.
To me, purpose is different.
I decided to buy TA3020 and DA-1 from Connex because goal was to have modules mounted and tested, ready to be used while I build different 41Hz kits for the fun of assembling. Here you can decide to fine tune and use customized components. Different approach and different purpose 😉
I understand from this thread there is some competition to promote one Tripath vs. the other and don't feel this kind of debate, at least done this way is very useful for other members. There is too much affective inside.
I would say that if goal is to have fun building the "best" amplifier, tuned to match your power supply, pre-amp etc..., go for 41Hz
If goal is to use Tripath module alerady build (and BTW well done) and ready to run almost out of the box, Connexelectronics module is perfect. You can even look at different version matching your needs.
Hi,
I had too the possibility to test both 41Hz and Connexelectronics products.. At the time being I mounted one AMP 5, two AMP10, one AMP7 one AMP15 and I have also assembled three complete amps based on TA3020V3b and one TA3020v2 ..(another one or maybe two on the way).. This to please my ears (I own now three Tripath amps!! yess) and for various friends that are "fan" of one or the other vendor and doesn't have the necessary skills (or time) to dedicate to wire up one complete amp. They pay for the stuff and I buy/assemble it for fun and to have the opportunity to test new chips. I had contacts with both Jan and Cristi.
Speaking about who is behind the two "commercial names" I always received professional support from both and I can tell they always behaved in total honesty (and even beyond) with me. You have sometimes to be patient waiting for the answer because they are busy men, but the answer will arrive for sure in a reasonable amount of time.
Regarding the sound, and this is just my own opinion, I didn't find so big differences among these amplifiers when comparing the same chip in different implementations.. I don't have a multi-billion equipment.. it's just a CD6000OSE limited with a TC7510 24bit/96K and a couple of Monitor Audio Silver Rx2. Once you compare the same chip, despite of the vendor of the card, the sound is very very close.. so close It would be, in my opinion, extremely difficult to tell them apart..
Reliability, at least for what I had the opportunity to test, is not a problem for all the amps I assembled.. I did some tests with a dummy load at the output (a very nice 1Kw resistor !) and I was able to make even the TA3020 implementations clip with no apparent issues (also on 4ohm and using a SPS80 800W SMPS), this in both the "flavours" 41Hz and connex..
The only issue that I noticed (and again this is common between the two vendors) is that TA3020 in particular, but TA2022 as well, are very susceptible to self-oscillate or to amplify RF noise especially if an SMPS is used and the input wires layout has not a carefully designed path along with good shielding.. This could cause the amplifier to build up heat even when used at light load.. I had this issue on the AMP5 (the first I built) and again in the AMP15 and in one of the latest v3b.. Slightly changing the wire path anyway (or using a transformer in place of the SMPS in the stubborn cases ) completely solved the issue..
If your Tripath amp is heating up even while idle, my advice is to coinsider, in the first instance, that this might be the cause.
Apart from this (it was my fault) I would say we're speaking about very good products in both cases..
I'm waiting to receive a device I bought to be uses as Spectrum Analyzer and maybe with that I will be able to identify differences.. But I doubt there will be anything showing up significant.
To the potential buyers, obviously basing on the experience I did, I can say that you can't go wrong chosing either of the two vendors.. Obviously if you are not a fan of DIY and you don't like solder Irons connex products are ready built and are the best way to go.. Building these amplifiers without the appropriate knowledge could be a very frustrating experience.. On the other end maybe the 41Hz products are more "customizable" if you are on the "tweakers" side (but I'm not so confident you will be able to get noticeable improvements in the sound using exotic components). Apart from this you can give your preference to the one you like the most.
I had too the possibility to test both 41Hz and Connexelectronics products.. At the time being I mounted one AMP 5, two AMP10, one AMP7 one AMP15 and I have also assembled three complete amps based on TA3020V3b and one TA3020v2 ..(another one or maybe two on the way).. This to please my ears (I own now three Tripath amps!! yess) and for various friends that are "fan" of one or the other vendor and doesn't have the necessary skills (or time) to dedicate to wire up one complete amp. They pay for the stuff and I buy/assemble it for fun and to have the opportunity to test new chips. I had contacts with both Jan and Cristi.
Speaking about who is behind the two "commercial names" I always received professional support from both and I can tell they always behaved in total honesty (and even beyond) with me. You have sometimes to be patient waiting for the answer because they are busy men, but the answer will arrive for sure in a reasonable amount of time.
Regarding the sound, and this is just my own opinion, I didn't find so big differences among these amplifiers when comparing the same chip in different implementations.. I don't have a multi-billion equipment.. it's just a CD6000OSE limited with a TC7510 24bit/96K and a couple of Monitor Audio Silver Rx2. Once you compare the same chip, despite of the vendor of the card, the sound is very very close.. so close It would be, in my opinion, extremely difficult to tell them apart..
Reliability, at least for what I had the opportunity to test, is not a problem for all the amps I assembled.. I did some tests with a dummy load at the output (a very nice 1Kw resistor !) and I was able to make even the TA3020 implementations clip with no apparent issues (also on 4ohm and using a SPS80 800W SMPS), this in both the "flavours" 41Hz and connex..
The only issue that I noticed (and again this is common between the two vendors) is that TA3020 in particular, but TA2022 as well, are very susceptible to self-oscillate or to amplify RF noise especially if an SMPS is used and the input wires layout has not a carefully designed path along with good shielding.. This could cause the amplifier to build up heat even when used at light load.. I had this issue on the AMP5 (the first I built) and again in the AMP15 and in one of the latest v3b.. Slightly changing the wire path anyway (or using a transformer in place of the SMPS in the stubborn cases ) completely solved the issue..
If your Tripath amp is heating up even while idle, my advice is to coinsider, in the first instance, that this might be the cause.
Apart from this (it was my fault) I would say we're speaking about very good products in both cases..
I'm waiting to receive a device I bought to be uses as Spectrum Analyzer and maybe with that I will be able to identify differences.. But I doubt there will be anything showing up significant.
To the potential buyers, obviously basing on the experience I did, I can say that you can't go wrong chosing either of the two vendors.. Obviously if you are not a fan of DIY and you don't like solder Irons connex products are ready built and are the best way to go.. Building these amplifiers without the appropriate knowledge could be a very frustrating experience.. On the other end maybe the 41Hz products are more "customizable" if you are on the "tweakers" side (but I'm not so confident you will be able to get noticeable improvements in the sound using exotic components). Apart from this you can give your preference to the one you like the most.
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Some amps are an easy set-up, but with a TA3020 amp you have to be quite lucky it is stock configured to suit your needs and the source/system. Optimal results will only be achieved with an optimised amplifier. Like the amplifier feedback, modulator gain, input gain, OCP and OVP, OCP de-glitching etc. etc.
There is a place where you can have all this tuned exactly to your needs and that is Maedos This guy really knows what he's doing. He is the designer of the T-brick, a great way of having a compact solution with some added protection (for your valuable speakers!) a totally silent turn on and off and convenient connectors to hook it all up.
Being happy about a product doesn't mean it can't be improved on.
Then the V3 amplifier has it's input gain configured very conservative, no wonder it has good SN ratio. It's like driving a Ferrari at half throttle all the time and mentioning it has excellent steering behaviour. To have this potentially powerful amplifier really show the beast inside takes an extremely high voltage source that way. On most sources it will never reach it's full output potential. I wonder why it is set up this way in it's stock set-up? I also wonder how the SN ratio is when it is set higher?
There is a place where you can have all this tuned exactly to your needs and that is Maedos This guy really knows what he's doing. He is the designer of the T-brick, a great way of having a compact solution with some added protection (for your valuable speakers!) a totally silent turn on and off and convenient connectors to hook it all up.
Being happy about a product doesn't mean it can't be improved on.
Then the V3 amplifier has it's input gain configured very conservative, no wonder it has good SN ratio. It's like driving a Ferrari at half throttle all the time and mentioning it has excellent steering behaviour. To have this potentially powerful amplifier really show the beast inside takes an extremely high voltage source that way. On most sources it will never reach it's full output potential. I wonder why it is set up this way in it's stock set-up? I also wonder how the SN ratio is when it is set higher?
the gain of v3 amp is set to the value which is was required by most of the customers. any other value can be provided on request. without any extracharge. that's because i also know very well what i'm doing.
how about you ? i still wait the answer for the ESR question.
how about you ? i still wait the answer for the ESR question.
I have a Connex V1 TA3020 on loan from Col in my loungeroom now and it sounds GREAT.. eagerly awaiting my v3c which is en route now. I haven't heard a great deal of different amps (in a hifi setting that is) but the TA3020 module really showed up my ART SLA-1 studio rack amp which has been my "reference" for a while. It was like the speakers had been upgraded for better bass.
I may not have a clue but I enjoyed what I heard! I'm fine with a conservative gain setting.. I live in a smaller house which means I guess only an 100 km/h speed limit for my ferrari... but that ferrari will still get to 100 in 3.6 seconds and impress the chicks.. actually it wont impress the chicks...
I know many will settle for less, and I am not just talking about the gain setting then, rather the complete optimalisation of the unit....
With all the due respect, please speak for yourself. 😛
It seems you have personal differences with Cristi and that is a problem between the two of you.
This may be clouding your judgment as you are starting to lack respect to other members here.
Cheers!
This is my first post here. May be my last. I am totally new to the world of diy amps. I did a search for t-brick and here I landed. I am now going to remove the t-brick from my paypal cart and buy an amp from connex. Sounds like a better deal, and after reading all of this I don't feel comfortable buying anything v-bro is promoting.
I am not promoting anything, I am only giving positive or negative criticism.
If I would have been so far off then all my criticism should have left you cold. Same goes for a few others...
If I would have been so far off then all my criticism should have left you cold. Same goes for a few others...
Old thread, I know, but I'll add my experience since this thead will still be read by others, just like I read it for myself just now.
I own the Connex v3c, and his a350smps. He was very helpful and nice towards me and answered the questions I had, and also provided me the amp customized exactly like I wanted it. On his order page, there are drop down boxes to choose certain different components, and on my v3c I chose to select all of the best/most expensive upgrades available, which included better better mosfets, bigger caps, and a couple other minor things. Besides these drop down boxes though, he also set the voltage for the SMPS to my request. Beyond this he did something for me that I did not even ask him to do nor did I have any idea it needed to be done, and he didn't even tell me he did it. Since he knew I'd be using an SMPS, he removed the rectifier bridge that normally comes on his boards in case you plan on using a transformer. I was unaware of this but he sent me an amp that had already been fixed and made ideal in this respect.
Now, subjectively, the sound and quality of this amp is amazing. I have heard 41hz offerings, and from memory I cannot tell a difference in quality, only that the 41hz amp (amp6) was not nearly as powerful and so they are incomparable as I turn up the volume control. I can say that for me, the gain setting is just fine. If anything it is too high, not too low, but this is perfect due to how I control the input volume.
While setting things up and experimenting I have shorted out the power supply while it was hooked up to the board and both still work perfectly. I have shorted ac inputs on the 3020 board with the speaker outputs (accidentally obviously), still with no permanent consequences. So the stuff seems very reliable. Even with only the 350w smps, and driving 15" 400w JBL woofers, I cannot find the power limits of this amp. It can sound clean until it blows my speakers.
I'm much more impressed with the sound quality than I am the power, even though the power is very impressive. At medium and low volumes, the sound is amazing. In my application there is currently definitely some unwanted noise, and that is my fault not his amps fault. I do not have the amp in a proper case and I do not have the input cables properly shielded etc. Grounding of amp and smps, as well as wires/connections/interconnects and shielding could all be improved by me (and will be eventually) to lower the noisefloor, but even with my sloppy implementation, the amp is STILL actually very quiet! On top of the woofers I've got sensitive midrange horns, and then ribbon tweeters... so my speakers are definitely of the very sensitive type which show me all the unwanted noise of the amp... and let me tell you it is quiet. I have no volume control or resistance whatsoever in front of the amplifier, so it is constantly amplifying at full gain ever parasitic noise that occurs prior to it... from my sound card (gadget labs wave 8/24) and my cables... given this setup the noisefloor is being maximized, i'm purposely amplifiying all parasitic noise by choosing to control the volume via software in my computer, and simply lowering the output of my sound card to control volume.... the noise floor stays the same and is amplified, while the music signal is lowered.
It would seem that this would only be acceptable at higher volume levels, to get a good s/n ratio... but that's not the case. Due to the quality of the gadget labs wave 8/24 and how quiet it is, this setup is perfectly usable even at low volumes (though not ideal, I realize this). My computer itself makes more noise than the amplifier does while amplifying all this parasitic noise with no resistance in between.
Keep in mind this is not how I want to have my system set up ideally. Eventually I will go with something like a stepped attenuator or an LDR or something else of that quality as my volume control RIGHT in front of the amps input (within inches), and then I will use that to control the volume, but only after choosing first the optimum output volume for my sound card to achieve it's own best performance and s/n ratio and dynamic range... and then once that is determined, the volume control in front of the amp will be used, since it's performance will be nearly exactly the same regardless of what range I'm using it in. Also the output of the gadget labs is widely adjustable.
I use foobar for music playback, and can use ASIO, KS, DS, or WASAPI (currently I believe ASIO to be the best, but in fact this is debatable as evidenced by forum discussions on head-fi). Here are some specs regarding my source:
Gadget Labs Wave 8/24:
ANALOG AUDIO OUTPUT
---Drive level: +4dBu or -10dBv, auto-switched via software.
(I use -10dBv, because it is still insanely loud due to the ta3020's gain. using this soundcard I have no master volume for windows, each application must have it's volume lowered to not blow out my eardrums and windows. in Foobar I can do this very accurately with an awesome dsp plugin that offers digital volume attenuation that is near perfect, certainly better than any potentiometer, but if i'm watching a movie with VLC I have to set its volume to between 3 and 8 percent to be acceptable... and this is at -10dBv, I could go to +4 if I found that the gadget labs performed better this way, and compensate with a stepped attenuator in front of the amp (for example)
output impedance: 100 ohms
connections: 1/4" jacks and XLR connectors via patch box
SAMPLING CONVERSION
Analog-to-digital converters
24-bit, 128-times over-sampling
sampling rates (kHz): 11.025, 16.0, 22.05, 24.0, 32.0, 44.1, 48.0
dynamic range: 105 dB, A-weighted
digital-to-analog converters
24-bit, 128-times over-sampling
dynamic range: 106 dB, A-weighted
frequency response: 10 to 20 kHz, +-0.1 dB
Now here are the ta3020 specs. It is interesting to note that many of them correlate quite nicely with the Gadget Labs, namely snr, channel separation, and dynamic range (which is ~102d each I believe, even though the ADC/DAC of the card exceed this). Also since most of my source material is 16 bit, and the card runs native in 24, either dithering is used to run at 16 bit, or over/upsampling is used to run at 24 bit. I haven't determined which is better. For equalization I use one of two DSP/VST plugins with foobar, which offer extreme accuracy, being better than any analog type EQ.
ta3020 tech specs:
Min Typ Max
Output Power (4R) 190W 220W -
Output Power (8R) 100W 120W -
Bandwidth 20kHz -
Signal to Noise ratio -102dB -
THD+N@50W 0.02% -
Intermodulation Distortion - 0.03% -
Channel Separation 97dB -
Switching Frequency 200kHz - 1.5MHz
Supply Voltage 1 +/-15V +/-45V +/-65V
Quiescent Current 1 - 90mA -
Supply Voltage 2 +4.5V +5.0V +5.5V
Quiescent Current 2 - 45mA -
Supply Voltage 3 +9V +10V +12V
Quiescent Current 3 - 200mA -
I own the Connex v3c, and his a350smps. He was very helpful and nice towards me and answered the questions I had, and also provided me the amp customized exactly like I wanted it. On his order page, there are drop down boxes to choose certain different components, and on my v3c I chose to select all of the best/most expensive upgrades available, which included better better mosfets, bigger caps, and a couple other minor things. Besides these drop down boxes though, he also set the voltage for the SMPS to my request. Beyond this he did something for me that I did not even ask him to do nor did I have any idea it needed to be done, and he didn't even tell me he did it. Since he knew I'd be using an SMPS, he removed the rectifier bridge that normally comes on his boards in case you plan on using a transformer. I was unaware of this but he sent me an amp that had already been fixed and made ideal in this respect.
Now, subjectively, the sound and quality of this amp is amazing. I have heard 41hz offerings, and from memory I cannot tell a difference in quality, only that the 41hz amp (amp6) was not nearly as powerful and so they are incomparable as I turn up the volume control. I can say that for me, the gain setting is just fine. If anything it is too high, not too low, but this is perfect due to how I control the input volume.
While setting things up and experimenting I have shorted out the power supply while it was hooked up to the board and both still work perfectly. I have shorted ac inputs on the 3020 board with the speaker outputs (accidentally obviously), still with no permanent consequences. So the stuff seems very reliable. Even with only the 350w smps, and driving 15" 400w JBL woofers, I cannot find the power limits of this amp. It can sound clean until it blows my speakers.
I'm much more impressed with the sound quality than I am the power, even though the power is very impressive. At medium and low volumes, the sound is amazing. In my application there is currently definitely some unwanted noise, and that is my fault not his amps fault. I do not have the amp in a proper case and I do not have the input cables properly shielded etc. Grounding of amp and smps, as well as wires/connections/interconnects and shielding could all be improved by me (and will be eventually) to lower the noisefloor, but even with my sloppy implementation, the amp is STILL actually very quiet! On top of the woofers I've got sensitive midrange horns, and then ribbon tweeters... so my speakers are definitely of the very sensitive type which show me all the unwanted noise of the amp... and let me tell you it is quiet. I have no volume control or resistance whatsoever in front of the amplifier, so it is constantly amplifying at full gain ever parasitic noise that occurs prior to it... from my sound card (gadget labs wave 8/24) and my cables... given this setup the noisefloor is being maximized, i'm purposely amplifiying all parasitic noise by choosing to control the volume via software in my computer, and simply lowering the output of my sound card to control volume.... the noise floor stays the same and is amplified, while the music signal is lowered.
It would seem that this would only be acceptable at higher volume levels, to get a good s/n ratio... but that's not the case. Due to the quality of the gadget labs wave 8/24 and how quiet it is, this setup is perfectly usable even at low volumes (though not ideal, I realize this). My computer itself makes more noise than the amplifier does while amplifying all this parasitic noise with no resistance in between.
Keep in mind this is not how I want to have my system set up ideally. Eventually I will go with something like a stepped attenuator or an LDR or something else of that quality as my volume control RIGHT in front of the amps input (within inches), and then I will use that to control the volume, but only after choosing first the optimum output volume for my sound card to achieve it's own best performance and s/n ratio and dynamic range... and then once that is determined, the volume control in front of the amp will be used, since it's performance will be nearly exactly the same regardless of what range I'm using it in. Also the output of the gadget labs is widely adjustable.
I use foobar for music playback, and can use ASIO, KS, DS, or WASAPI (currently I believe ASIO to be the best, but in fact this is debatable as evidenced by forum discussions on head-fi). Here are some specs regarding my source:
Gadget Labs Wave 8/24:
ANALOG AUDIO OUTPUT
---Drive level: +4dBu or -10dBv, auto-switched via software.
(I use -10dBv, because it is still insanely loud due to the ta3020's gain. using this soundcard I have no master volume for windows, each application must have it's volume lowered to not blow out my eardrums and windows. in Foobar I can do this very accurately with an awesome dsp plugin that offers digital volume attenuation that is near perfect, certainly better than any potentiometer, but if i'm watching a movie with VLC I have to set its volume to between 3 and 8 percent to be acceptable... and this is at -10dBv, I could go to +4 if I found that the gadget labs performed better this way, and compensate with a stepped attenuator in front of the amp (for example)
output impedance: 100 ohms
connections: 1/4" jacks and XLR connectors via patch box
SAMPLING CONVERSION
Analog-to-digital converters
24-bit, 128-times over-sampling
sampling rates (kHz): 11.025, 16.0, 22.05, 24.0, 32.0, 44.1, 48.0
dynamic range: 105 dB, A-weighted
digital-to-analog converters
24-bit, 128-times over-sampling
dynamic range: 106 dB, A-weighted
frequency response: 10 to 20 kHz, +-0.1 dB
Now here are the ta3020 specs. It is interesting to note that many of them correlate quite nicely with the Gadget Labs, namely snr, channel separation, and dynamic range (which is ~102d each I believe, even though the ADC/DAC of the card exceed this). Also since most of my source material is 16 bit, and the card runs native in 24, either dithering is used to run at 16 bit, or over/upsampling is used to run at 24 bit. I haven't determined which is better. For equalization I use one of two DSP/VST plugins with foobar, which offer extreme accuracy, being better than any analog type EQ.
ta3020 tech specs:
Min Typ Max
Output Power (4R) 190W 220W -
Output Power (8R) 100W 120W -
Bandwidth 20kHz -
Signal to Noise ratio -102dB -
THD+N@50W 0.02% -
Intermodulation Distortion - 0.03% -
Channel Separation 97dB -
Switching Frequency 200kHz - 1.5MHz
Supply Voltage 1 +/-15V +/-45V +/-65V
Quiescent Current 1 - 90mA -
Supply Voltage 2 +4.5V +5.0V +5.5V
Quiescent Current 2 - 45mA -
Supply Voltage 3 +9V +10V +12V
Quiescent Current 3 - 200mA -
Cristi does indeed provide fantastic customer service. I also have experienced this. It's a rare and priceless quality in the generally negative consumer market we have unfortunately all grown accustomed to.
Cristi, I was in an electronics store recently and had the opportunity to purchase a stepped attenuator but I do not know the specs required for my application.
What should the specs of the stepped attenuator be if I am using it directly in front of the amps input as a volume control?
Does the v3c have preference as to what I feed it? I mean... I know it must. I guess my question is what is it's preference. I'm feeding it with a -10dBv signal from my gadget labs wave 8/24, and controlling gain via dsp in foobar... -18dB in this foobar DSP gives me VERY loud volumes... I usually run between negative 50-60db (very quiet) to -24db (rather loud but not even close to distorting my speakers).
What should the ideal output impedance of my soundcard be? I believe the output impedance is 100 ohms. Can a stepped attenuator itself correct for this and present a different output impedance to the amp?
Thankyou!
Old thread but maybe someone can share his experiences. Anybody ever tried using a Salas shunt, like Reflektor-D for powering the T3020?
From the instructions: The +5V supply should be well stabilized and fused, (before the voltage regulator), at 200mA. Use a shielded cable for connecting the +5V. The +5 supply should never go above +6V, or be connected with wrong polarity, as this will damage the Tripath chipset. Do not turn on the power yet. i. Note, the +5V is used for both the analogue preamp section of the Tripath chip and also for the logic level signals in the chipset. It is essential that the +5V supply is quiet / well stabilized. Using shielded cable for hooking up the +5V prevents feedback of high frequency EMI from the power amp into the analogue section.
From the instructions: The +5V supply should be well stabilized and fused, (before the voltage regulator), at 200mA. Use a shielded cable for connecting the +5V. The +5 supply should never go above +6V, or be connected with wrong polarity, as this will damage the Tripath chipset. Do not turn on the power yet. i. Note, the +5V is used for both the analogue preamp section of the Tripath chip and also for the logic level signals in the chipset. It is essential that the +5V supply is quiet / well stabilized. Using shielded cable for hooking up the +5V prevents feedback of high frequency EMI from the power amp into the analogue section.
The DO’S AND DON’TS WHEN DESIGNING FOR EMI COMPLIANCE an17.pdf suggests using a 4700pf capacitor as an RFI suppress capacitor. Has anybody experimented with the quality of this capacitor? Right now my truepath has a MP3 X2 cap. Should I replace it with a silver mica or could I use teflon caps (like the russian K72P)?
Thank you and greetings from Greece
Thank you and greetings from Greece
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