Try replacing the capacitors. I had a problem with an AMP6 that I thought had gone belly up, but Pano' set me on the path to redemption. I had to replace the tank cap and all was well again.
Try replacing caps. You can run large value caps in parallel to see if the amp comes back to life without having to take a cap out of the circuit. For the smaller value caps you may be able to either use a LCD meter or check with an ohmmeter while the cap is in the circuit.
I would, strongly, suggest placing a fuse in the feed from the power source. The fuse will blow if one of the caps is shorting out. You may want o remove the Tank cap from the circuit to isolate the chip from your testing. Try each cap until you get things to work without blowing a fuse. Then try a new tank cap.
The above is what worked for me.
Try replacing caps. You can run large value caps in parallel to see if the amp comes back to life without having to take a cap out of the circuit. For the smaller value caps you may be able to either use a LCD meter or check with an ohmmeter while the cap is in the circuit.
I would, strongly, suggest placing a fuse in the feed from the power source. The fuse will blow if one of the caps is shorting out. You may want o remove the Tank cap from the circuit to isolate the chip from your testing. Try each cap until you get things to work without blowing a fuse. Then try a new tank cap.
The above is what worked for me.
dweekie said:I hooked up the Trends with the wrong polairty once, but it survived fortunately. I guess I got very lucky![]()
I have been messing around output filter lately. I replaced all the caps with Vishay MKT1817. They really attenuated the highs compared to the original, but it had less distortion overall in the sound (a/b check using left and right channels). For some reason, the distortion in the original caps sounded really pleasant though.
I then replaced the original 10 ohm resistor with some Riken. WOW. Huge difference in sound. I thought the 12 caps would make a bigger difference than 2 resistors, but apparantly not.
I settled on the Vishays over the original caps, but I could go either way.
Hey which 10ohm resistors did you replace?
Davet said:Try replacing the capacitors. I had a problem with an AMP6 that I thought had gone belly up, but Pano' set me on the path to redemption. I had to replace the tank cap and all was well again.
Try replacing caps. You can run large value caps in parallel to see if the amp comes back to life without having to take a cap out of the circuit. For the smaller value caps you may be able to either use a LCD meter or check with an ohmmeter while the cap is in the circuit.
I would, strongly, suggest placing a fuse in the feed from the power source. The fuse will blow if one of the caps is shorting out. You may want o remove the Tank cap from the circuit to isolate the chip from your testing. Try each cap until you get things to work without blowing a fuse. Then try a new tank cap.
The above is what worked for me.
Thanks for the tip. I'm definitely going to try replacing the blown caps on the board. I was planning on upgrading them anyway so I guess this will force me to do it. I'm crossing my fingers!
recca said:Hey which 10ohm resistors did you replace?
There are only 2. They are the Zobel resistors in the output filter circuit.
recca said:I was planning on upgrading them anyway so I guess this will force me to do it.
I think you'll be alright. Let us know.
well looking at my board i can see that a bunch of pins on the Tripath chip have blown off. I think there's no recovering at this point. I did remember that I have a SI 5066 T Amp sitting around though and i started to dig through all of those threads. Doesn't look quite as fun messing around with SMD's instead of through holes. I'm wondering if its possible to swap chips from the 5066 to the Trends? I'm not too confident in my ability to do so, but i'm thinking there is a chance right?
If now, how do I bypass the pot on the 5066...ah, i'll just dig through the thread.
If now, how do I bypass the pot on the 5066...ah, i'll just dig through the thread.
Hi, I haven't posted for while, since the moto DCP501 thread, but I've enjoyed reading many of your posts mostly on this thread but also others, thanks.
Much has changed for the better with my system, since then.
First, my system: I now have the Trends 10.1, NAD 1600 pre/tuner, I've had the (Paradigm Monitor 3 v. 3's) with the old T-amp, they were the one component that did not change. They are AWESUME speakers!! They get down to 38 hz, (8" bass/mid driver), and a pure titanium dome tweeter. They sound wonderful.
I want to share my tweeking / listening experiences with you.
*First with the Trends the DC OFFSET adjustment made the biggest difference with my Trends 10.1. After around 100 hours I adjusted it and it totally improved the sound (huge)! It went from almost flat sounding to really great sounding! Most important adjustment with the Trends, imo!
*Second discovery of note I wanted to share, I had one of the Trends with the bad light. However, as I had just finished adjusting the DC offsets, I decided to take the small screwdriver and (from the inside press on the back of the light's backing, gently with the tip of the screwdriver. I watched as I did it and by pressing on the back, it moved the light so it protruded out of the front of the faceplate, about a 1/32 of an inch more than it did before. The big news for me is that the LIGHT has WORKED steady ever since!!!! It may be worth a try, if you have the same problem.
I prefer the sound of the Trends with a pre-amp, but I haven't modified mine yet. Here is how I will describe the difference in sounds, with and without the pre-amp with my Trends.
Without the pre-amp it sounds very good, clear, lightning fast details/ response, deep tight bass. However, it lacked a certain something in the midrange sound. I think it's the Bennics, taking a little "forwardness" out of the mids, is how I would descibe it.
With the NAD Pre-amp, first of all the Trends volume control now becomes the master control (once set), of course you use the NAD volume control. What I found is that there is a SWEET SPOT when setting the Trends volume knob. Where the TWO soundfields mix, it controls the meshing of the two soundfields, is how I would describe it! Find the sweet spot!!! very cool. 🙂
I bypass the tone controls, a must to keep that Tripath sound, imo. The Trends with the Pre-amp has more depth to the soundfield, and adds a liquidity to the soundfield that I really prefer!
I still have to build my charlize amp, but I've been sidetracked with the Trends for awhile! I will then compare the two, and give my review!
Thanks again for all the great posts!
Much has changed for the better with my system, since then.
First, my system: I now have the Trends 10.1, NAD 1600 pre/tuner, I've had the (Paradigm Monitor 3 v. 3's) with the old T-amp, they were the one component that did not change. They are AWESUME speakers!! They get down to 38 hz, (8" bass/mid driver), and a pure titanium dome tweeter. They sound wonderful.
I want to share my tweeking / listening experiences with you.
*First with the Trends the DC OFFSET adjustment made the biggest difference with my Trends 10.1. After around 100 hours I adjusted it and it totally improved the sound (huge)! It went from almost flat sounding to really great sounding! Most important adjustment with the Trends, imo!
*Second discovery of note I wanted to share, I had one of the Trends with the bad light. However, as I had just finished adjusting the DC offsets, I decided to take the small screwdriver and (from the inside press on the back of the light's backing, gently with the tip of the screwdriver. I watched as I did it and by pressing on the back, it moved the light so it protruded out of the front of the faceplate, about a 1/32 of an inch more than it did before. The big news for me is that the LIGHT has WORKED steady ever since!!!! It may be worth a try, if you have the same problem.
I prefer the sound of the Trends with a pre-amp, but I haven't modified mine yet. Here is how I will describe the difference in sounds, with and without the pre-amp with my Trends.
Without the pre-amp it sounds very good, clear, lightning fast details/ response, deep tight bass. However, it lacked a certain something in the midrange sound. I think it's the Bennics, taking a little "forwardness" out of the mids, is how I would descibe it.
With the NAD Pre-amp, first of all the Trends volume control now becomes the master control (once set), of course you use the NAD volume control. What I found is that there is a SWEET SPOT when setting the Trends volume knob. Where the TWO soundfields mix, it controls the meshing of the two soundfields, is how I would describe it! Find the sweet spot!!! very cool. 🙂
I bypass the tone controls, a must to keep that Tripath sound, imo. The Trends with the Pre-amp has more depth to the soundfield, and adds a liquidity to the soundfield that I really prefer!
I still have to build my charlize amp, but I've been sidetracked with the Trends for awhile! I will then compare the two, and give my review!
Thanks again for all the great posts!
Hi Dave, yes I saw that in my owners manual, I went in and looked for those jumpers once and couldn't find them at that time?
Can you direct me as to which ones they are exactly, and how exactly to do it? For example do you just lift them out once you locate them, and switch them, per the owners manual? Do you grab them with a needle nose? Then when you replace the one, does it matter which end goes where (pos/neg)? Now you know why I didn't mess with it before! 🙂 thanks!
Can you direct me as to which ones they are exactly, and how exactly to do it? For example do you just lift them out once you locate them, and switch them, per the owners manual? Do you grab them with a needle nose? Then when you replace the one, does it matter which end goes where (pos/neg)? Now you know why I didn't mess with it before! 🙂 thanks!
Check out Pano's site:
http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/start.html
Go through his Trends mod pages... there are pics, and the jumpers are near the volume pot. There are 4 of them, remove them all with small needle nose pliers. Then replace 2 of them in the middle position, 2 of them are not used. The jumpers can be oriented any way, it doesn't matter.
If - is jumper, and . is a pin, you go from:
-- to .-.
-- to .-.
Good Luck,
Dave
http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/start.html
Go through his Trends mod pages... there are pics, and the jumpers are near the volume pot. There are 4 of them, remove them all with small needle nose pliers. Then replace 2 of them in the middle position, 2 of them are not used. The jumpers can be oriented any way, it doesn't matter.
If - is jumper, and . is a pin, you go from:
-- to .-.
-- to .-.
Good Luck,
Dave
Hi Dave, Thanks, I figured it out, what was confusing me was that there are 8 jumpers there. I just unplug the 4 jumpers closet to the volume pot, but then just using 2 jumpers reconnect the center pin holes with the 2 jumpers.
The problem is you need NANO / MICRO needle noses to pull those. They are in there tight. What did you use? Is there a special tool to pull those jumpers with out there?
I'm just leaving it for now until I get the proper tool to grab those with. I don't want to break something! It sounds really good as it is with the NAD. As I mentioned, the trends had a slight lack of forwardness in the mids that I didn't like. The NAD pre-amp helped the mids out nicely. It also added depth and liquidity to the soundfield! This is sounding great right now!
I am looking forward to trying the sound as just a power amp to compare to the set-up now.
Thanks again!
Marc
The problem is you need NANO / MICRO needle noses to pull those. They are in there tight. What did you use? Is there a special tool to pull those jumpers with out there?
I'm just leaving it for now until I get the proper tool to grab those with. I don't want to break something! It sounds really good as it is with the NAD. As I mentioned, the trends had a slight lack of forwardness in the mids that I didn't like. The NAD pre-amp helped the mids out nicely. It also added depth and liquidity to the soundfield! This is sounding great right now!
I am looking forward to trying the sound as just a power amp to compare to the set-up now.
Thanks again!
Marc
Tripath07 said:The problem is you need NANO / MICRO needle noses to pull those. They are in there tight. What did you use? Is there a special tool to pull those jumpers with out there?
I'm just leaving it for now until I get the proper tool to grab those with. I don't want to break something!
Marc
They should not be tight, there a little notches near the top to give you grip, you should be able to slide them off with a jeweller's screwdriver, putting them back on in a tight spot is the hard part. Use women's eyebrow tweezers, needle nose pliers on a leatherman are small enough too. Fingernails work well too.
To save losing the spare jumper caps put them on a single pin with the other half sticking out the side.
Tripath07 said:Hi, I haven't posted for while, since the moto DCP501 thread, but I've enjoyed reading many of your posts mostly on this thread but also others, thanks.
I still have to build my charlize amp, but I've been sidetracked with the Trends for awhile! I will then compare the two, and give my review!
Hi Tripath. Look forward to your comparison. I have both - and the Charlize is staying in the main system (Trends on the PC). Somehow the TA10.1 struggles to drive my IPL S4 TLs, yet the Charlize drives them with ease. Possibly just the different chipsets, yet the stock Sonic Impact seems to cope pretty well with the big IPLs (maybe the slightly rolled off bass in the SI helps - who knows?).
Be prepared for the Charlize' break-in time - the improvement in Charlize' sound between 300 and 500 hours was very noticeable - just as I thought it had stabilised and was VERY happy - it surprised me by improving! I was thinking of trying Obbligados for the Charlize - not now, time is my tweak - curious to hear what 1000 hours sounds like?
Bottom line: don't do your A/B comparison too early!
(Slightly off-topic guys, sorry!)
Hi OzMikeH, Thanks for the tips on removing those jumpers, great ideas! I will try it!
This set-up sounds really great, and I will be extremely happy if it improves with the power amp switch. I will post the results after comparing the two sounds! I am going to listen to my favorite cd's again before I make the change.
Thanks again!
This set-up sounds really great, and I will be extremely happy if it improves with the power amp switch. I will post the results after comparing the two sounds! I am going to listen to my favorite cd's again before I make the change.
Thanks again!
Hi Alan Hope , Thanks for the Charlize break in time warning. I am very aware of the break in time with the Tripath chips. My old well broken in T-amp out performed the sonics of the my new Trends, until I had 100+ hours on the Trends and did the big DC offset adjustment!
I will break the Charlize in with the tuner on the NAD, when I finally build it. The Trends is going to sound even better once I get it over 300 hours, I'm guessing I've got about 200 hours on it now. I have been lazy about leaving the tuner on lately for the Trends since it started to sound so good.
I will post my listening results between the Trends and the Charlize Amp!
I will break the Charlize in with the tuner on the NAD, when I finally build it. The Trends is going to sound even better once I get it over 300 hours, I'm guessing I've got about 200 hours on it now. I have been lazy about leaving the tuner on lately for the Trends since it started to sound so good.
I will post my listening results between the Trends and the Charlize Amp!
Anybody using a T-Amp with crossoverless wide-range-driver speakers, eg BLHs or BVRs?
I'm curious to try eg the Sachiko horn ...
About the middle of this page
... but would quite like a heads-up before tackling the woodwork.
I'm curious to try eg the Sachiko horn ...
About the middle of this page
... but would quite like a heads-up before tackling the woodwork.
Puffin said:IMO, the Tripath based amps, with a valve pre and horns are a great combination.
Is that what you've got, Puffin?
I've done a bit of web hunting, and it sounds like:
1. Horns give a startling presence in the midrange
2. Loud complex music may blur a bit in comparison with good crossed-over designs.
3. People who hear horns either don't go back to trad speakers, or go back but always pine for the "presence" of the horns.
And would I really need the valve pre? They don't come cheap, so would need to justify their purchase. (I'm Scottish!)
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