I'm away from my fullrange speakers at the moment, I'm going to try a TA10 on a friend's FR BLH cabinets sometime in the next couple of weeks.
The only thing you need to watch out for with the TA10 is to ensure the speakers are high efficiency, 93dB/W minimum if you like it loud.
I'm currently looking for a cheap way to implement valve buffer to put between my solid state preamp and the T-amps. I'll let you know if I find anthing.
To start with you don't need ANY preamp, just plug your source straight into the T-amp, it has a volume control.
For the Woodwork questions: I suggest you post it in the Fullrange thread, list what space you have available (some are 5 feet tall!) how big your room is and what drivers you have. Sachiko is pretty easy, all 90 degree cuts but it's a LOT of wood.
The only thing you need to watch out for with the TA10 is to ensure the speakers are high efficiency, 93dB/W minimum if you like it loud.
I'm currently looking for a cheap way to implement valve buffer to put between my solid state preamp and the T-amps. I'll let you know if I find anthing.
To start with you don't need ANY preamp, just plug your source straight into the T-amp, it has a volume control.
For the Woodwork questions: I suggest you post it in the Fullrange thread, list what space you have available (some are 5 feet tall!) how big your room is and what drivers you have. Sachiko is pretty easy, all 90 degree cuts but it's a LOT of wood.
Cheers Mike
Let us know how the Trends + BLH sounds.
My transmission lines have a fair bit of wood in them too! And I have enough space - especially for the taller designs eg Sachiko.
I reckon it will be next spring when I get enough time to build these - I've read enough to trigger my curiosity and for me that is usually fatal!
Let us know how the Trends + BLH sounds.
My transmission lines have a fair bit of wood in them too! And I have enough space - especially for the taller designs eg Sachiko.
I reckon it will be next spring when I get enough time to build these - I've read enough to trigger my curiosity and for me that is usually fatal!
heatsinks
I did it this way because the copper base of the heatsink will be far more effective at transferring heat than the plastic cover.
I used blue utilux crimps, red ones are a smaller diameter and should fit into the recesses in the side of the chip a little bit better.
pull the plastic sleeve off, file the end of the ferrule flat for better contact with the chip's heatsink and solder it on, easy. You need a 60 watt iron and good quality solder.
I did it this way because the copper base of the heatsink will be far more effective at transferring heat than the plastic cover.
I used blue utilux crimps, red ones are a smaller diameter and should fit into the recesses in the side of the chip a little bit better.
pull the plastic sleeve off, file the end of the ferrule flat for better contact with the chip's heatsink and solder it on, easy. You need a 60 watt iron and good quality solder.
Attachments
dweekie said:
I liked the tone of the Obbs. but I'm still wondering why the sound stage was not very impressive as far as width was concerned and their imaging was so, so. Hmmm.... maybe I should give them another try.
Hi OzMikeH, Well once I located the jumpers it took about two minutes. I used a very small needle nose I had, but had forggoten about. Thanks again for the help!
Ok, now for my sound impressions: F
Ok, now for my sound impressions: F
Hit the send key by mistake,
The sound is richer and fuller and it is more forward sounding than with the volume pot . Like you are just a little closer to the music. It is also more dynamic, the sonics are better, and I can hear a little more of the detail in the music! It sounds great.
I will have to change it back at some point in a few weeks to double check the difference in the sound. It sounded good before, this sounds better now however.
Thanks again for the help!
The sound is richer and fuller and it is more forward sounding than with the volume pot . Like you are just a little closer to the music. It is also more dynamic, the sonics are better, and I can hear a little more of the detail in the music! It sounds great.
I will have to change it back at some point in a few weeks to double check the difference in the sound. It sounded good before, this sounds better now however.
Thanks again for the help!
Hi Dave,
Thanks again for the suggestion to bypass the volume pot, and the help! I had put that on the back burner. I am very glad I changed it.
You were right! It sounds better than with the volume pot.
Thanks!!!
Have a great one!
Marc
Thanks again for the suggestion to bypass the volume pot, and the help! I had put that on the back burner. I am very glad I changed it.
You were right! It sounds better than with the volume pot.
Thanks!!!
Have a great one!
Marc
The Trends set up as a power amp is the way to go for me with the NAD. The sound is better, fuller, deeper, with higher resolution, more details on the ends of notes. I still have the same problem however, ...the wife telling me to turn it down. 🙂
I found these RCA connectors on ebay today and bought two pair, for the Trends, and NAD pre-amp. $59.99 per pair and FREE shipping if you buy two pair. I have wanted new RCA's for awhile. Should be an upgrade from my Monster Cable 400 RCA's I have now.
Here is the link, I'll review the sound difference when I get the new RCA's.
Have a great weekend!
http://cgi.ebay.com/GlowPower-Zymur...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
I found these RCA connectors on ebay today and bought two pair, for the Trends, and NAD pre-amp. $59.99 per pair and FREE shipping if you buy two pair. I have wanted new RCA's for awhile. Should be an upgrade from my Monster Cable 400 RCA's I have now.
Here is the link, I'll review the sound difference when I get the new RCA's.
Have a great weekend!
http://cgi.ebay.com/GlowPower-Zymur...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
capacitors
🙂 hi has anyone used any dubilier capacitors ? i have found some 63v 2200uF(M) in a job lot i brought of ebay a while ago (approx 64000, 😱 😀 all various types, anyway back to the point these dubiliers are quite big so wont fit the standard case but that doesn't bother me, i was wondering if anyone has any experience of this brand of cap ? also has anyone tried replacing any of the box capacitors ( the small yellow ones ) for better quality parts, ie wima
i;m getting restless to start playing with this amp
as i am still waiting for my tweak kit 3 & battery power pack to arrive , been on order since early August 
🙁
cheers, Mark
🙂 hi has anyone used any dubilier capacitors ? i have found some 63v 2200uF(M) in a job lot i brought of ebay a while ago (approx 64000, 😱 😀 all various types, anyway back to the point these dubiliers are quite big so wont fit the standard case but that doesn't bother me, i was wondering if anyone has any experience of this brand of cap ? also has anyone tried replacing any of the box capacitors ( the small yellow ones ) for better quality parts, ie wima
i;m getting restless to start playing with this amp
as i am still waiting for my tweak kit 3 & battery power pack to arrive , been on order since early August 🙁 cheers, Mark
Re: capacitors
I think you're talking about the most of yellow caps in the output filter. I have a post a few pages back on that. The original yellow caps seem to distort the sound a bit, but it's in a somewhat pleasant manner. The Vishay MKT1817 replacements I am currently using are clearer and less flat sounding, but don't quite have that sweetness and sounds more solid-state. There aren't too many options that fit the 5mm wide leads or fit in the confined area. Let us know what parts you find to fit the space.
buddah2xa said:🙂 hi has anyone used any dubilier capacitors ? i have found some 63v 2200uF(M) in a job lot i brought of ebay a while ago (approx 64000, 😱 😀 all various types, anyway back to the point these dubiliers are quite big so wont fit the standard case but that doesn't bother me, i was wondering if anyone has any experience of this brand of cap ? also has anyone tried replacing any of the box capacitors ( the small yellow ones ) for better quality parts, ie wima
i;m getting restless to start playing with this amp
cheers, Mark
I think you're talking about the most of yellow caps in the output filter. I have a post a few pages back on that. The original yellow caps seem to distort the sound a bit, but it's in a somewhat pleasant manner. The Vishay MKT1817 replacements I am currently using are clearer and less flat sounding, but don't quite have that sweetness and sounds more solid-state. There aren't too many options that fit the 5mm wide leads or fit in the confined area. Let us know what parts you find to fit the space.
The RCA connectors were just ok, a little different than the monster, but not any better. I'll probably look at a high end monster RCA next.
To determine the true value of anything with a Monster label: Take the price, divide by a number between 5 and 10 depending on how good the packaging looks.
If you want good connectors don't use ANY RCA, Use BNC.
Teflon insulated, gold and silver plated, locking, less than $5 each. That's all I'll say, there is too much discussion on cables and connectors but I hate to see people get ripped off or waste money on buying a better version of a flawed design just because everyone else uses them.
If you want good connectors don't use ANY RCA, Use BNC.
Teflon insulated, gold and silver plated, locking, less than $5 each. That's all I'll say, there is too much discussion on cables and connectors but I hate to see people get ripped off or waste money on buying a better version of a flawed design just because everyone else uses them.
I tested my matched pair of TA10.1s last night, Speakers are Fostex FE207E (95dB/W) with FT17H super tweeter using 0.57uF and 8 ohm series resistance (98.5 dB/w). I used one channel of each amp to drive each speaker, the other channel was left disconnected. I used stock power supplies and tried a variety of sources. Running the amps with only one channel should double the power supply headroom.
There was a lack of bass. They sounded similar in the low end to my SS amp. I was expecing something similar to the Mr Liang EL34 amp I tried. There was no kick, no meat in the bass. I suspect the Trends have a rather low output impedance. I think I'll have to add some series resistance to the FE207E to balance the sound.
High end was very detailed, I'm happy with that.
I found I was listening with the volume all of the way up and wanting a little bit more. Eventually I plugged in my preamp to get some more gain, line level straight in with no attenuation was not quite enough and it was still sounding clean.
Has anyone tried increasing the gain of these amps?
I want about another 6 or 9dB, will this reduce sound quality?
There was a lack of bass. They sounded similar in the low end to my SS amp. I was expecing something similar to the Mr Liang EL34 amp I tried. There was no kick, no meat in the bass. I suspect the Trends have a rather low output impedance. I think I'll have to add some series resistance to the FE207E to balance the sound.
High end was very detailed, I'm happy with that.
I found I was listening with the volume all of the way up and wanting a little bit more. Eventually I plugged in my preamp to get some more gain, line level straight in with no attenuation was not quite enough and it was still sounding clean.
Has anyone tried increasing the gain of these amps?
I want about another 6 or 9dB, will this reduce sound quality?
OzMikeH said:
Hi Mike, I have about 6ohms series resistance with my FE207E's which transforms the bass response nicely😎
Do you think you have an overall flat response with those tweets in that setup now?
I took a lot of time getting it to sound right with the borrowed tube amp. I was hoping to buy it off Exurbia but someone beat me to it.
One of the first stages was running the tweeter without the resistance and a bigger capacitor for the same XO point but it was too harsh and bright. I added the 8 ohms to match the efficiencies, it also fits well with the rising impedance of the FE207E (16 ohms at 10kHz) and the balance sounded good to me, Exurbia thought the upper-midrange was a little flat.
Considering the 8 ohms already on the tweeter if I added 6 ohms to both it would shift the crossover point, If I added 6 ohms to just the FE207E then the tweeter will be too much again.
All of the above is off topic for this thread, getting back ON topic: I have to start the crossover again so this time I'm going active with two Trends TA10.1, steeper slopes and a 10kHz crossover frequency. I'll use one amp with it's own power supply for each channel. There's a thread I started about it in this forum. I've been told it's a bad idea but I'll learn a lot, I might even end up with just a 6dB high pass on the tweeter again.
One of the first stages was running the tweeter without the resistance and a bigger capacitor for the same XO point but it was too harsh and bright. I added the 8 ohms to match the efficiencies, it also fits well with the rising impedance of the FE207E (16 ohms at 10kHz) and the balance sounded good to me, Exurbia thought the upper-midrange was a little flat.
Considering the 8 ohms already on the tweeter if I added 6 ohms to both it would shift the crossover point, If I added 6 ohms to just the FE207E then the tweeter will be too much again.
All of the above is off topic for this thread, getting back ON topic: I have to start the crossover again so this time I'm going active with two Trends TA10.1, steeper slopes and a 10kHz crossover frequency. I'll use one amp with it's own power supply for each channel. There's a thread I started about it in this forum. I've been told it's a bad idea but I'll learn a lot, I might even end up with just a 6dB high pass on the tweeter again.
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