dweekie said:
You can order from www.skynetusa.com
I just called them, and the most likely ps candidates I could find on the site are:
SNP-9567-M 12V 5A output $33.96
SNP-Z067-1 12V 5.5A output $41.11
They are willing to sell single units!
However, the 4.1A smps I bought was locally is a Calrad, which should be a good quality unit.
I believe battery power ultimately has a slight edge here, but can anyone suggest a capacitor setup for the battery that would compliment the Trends? (I searched, but all I get is a ps debate 🙄 )
Dave
capacitor setup for battery
http://cgim.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/vs.pl?vaslt&1140494870&viewitem&o12
Raj
http://cgim.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/vs.pl?vaslt&1140494870&viewitem&o12
Raj
So low ESR electrolytics bypassed with films connecting the + - terminals of the battery? Any idea with regards to minimum values? We're not powering a whole system here, just a Trends...😀
Davec113 said:
Technically, yes. But it does not seem to make any difference, at least on an 8 ohm load.
Many of these power supplies can provide peak power far above the average rating. Remember, the T-Amps draw about 300mA on average musical signals.
Re: battery tweaks
Nice find!
I'll try around 20,000 uF of electrolytics and whatever I can get at the local store as far as film caps as a first try.
I'll report back after I've done this.
Pano, I think I fried my stock ps by taxing it too hard. I was breaking in speakers using an active pre with the tone controls engaged, bass at a maximum, playing a track with deep, long bass notes on a loop for long periods of time. The stock ps was getting pretty warm, and now that I think about it this is what did it in. I know this isn't normal use, but I think the stock ps might be a bit underpowered, and the 9037 is even smaller. Just some random thoughts, I may not be correct in the assumption that what I did killed the ps... but the 4.1A unit does not get up to the temperatures that the stock ps did.
Dave
rajacat said:
Nice find!
I'll try around 20,000 uF of electrolytics and whatever I can get at the local store as far as film caps as a first try.
I'll report back after I've done this.
Pano, I think I fried my stock ps by taxing it too hard. I was breaking in speakers using an active pre with the tone controls engaged, bass at a maximum, playing a track with deep, long bass notes on a loop for long periods of time. The stock ps was getting pretty warm, and now that I think about it this is what did it in. I know this isn't normal use, but I think the stock ps might be a bit underpowered, and the 9037 is even smaller. Just some random thoughts, I may not be correct in the assumption that what I did killed the ps... but the 4.1A unit does not get up to the temperatures that the stock ps did.
Dave
Well just swapped out the Bennic's with Vishay MKT1822's and there is a difference. I'll reserve judgment until after they've broken in but here are a couple quick observations.
1. More dynamic and exciting sounding.
2. Treble is a little hotter. Not sure if its tipping things up or just less muffled but definitely more than the bennics. Might just need some break in.
3. Bass is a little bigger but a little less tight.
4. Soundstage a little wider.
I would say the treble and dynamics are the most notable effects. Again these are right off the bat so take it with a grain of salt. So far I like it better than the broken in Bennics.
BTW - These were my first mods ever on a piece of equipment and it was fun. Vishays are small and fit exactly in the holes without bending anything.
1. More dynamic and exciting sounding.
2. Treble is a little hotter. Not sure if its tipping things up or just less muffled but definitely more than the bennics. Might just need some break in.
3. Bass is a little bigger but a little less tight.
4. Soundstage a little wider.
I would say the treble and dynamics are the most notable effects. Again these are right off the bat so take it with a grain of salt. So far I like it better than the broken in Bennics.
BTW - These were my first mods ever on a piece of equipment and it was fun. Vishays are small and fit exactly in the holes without bending anything.
BTW - Does anyone have some extra copper foil they want to send me? I dont really want to buy 3 yards of the stuff.
Thanks! Let me know if you need anything I have stuff lying around too.
Thanks! Let me know if you need anything I have stuff lying around too.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-b...R_SUPPLY,_5.1V_12A,_12V_2.5A,_-12V_2.5A_.html
This is my preferred SMPS for now. It uses Nichicon Ultra Low ESR caps (PL series) throughout, with one large LM (K) cap. It sounds very tight and precise. The sound is not smoothed out or made thicker. I guess it's more on the analytical side if you want to describe it that way.
This is my preferred SMPS for now. It uses Nichicon Ultra Low ESR caps (PL series) throughout, with one large LM (K) cap. It sounds very tight and precise. The sound is not smoothed out or made thicker. I guess it's more on the analytical side if you want to describe it that way.
I really need two of these amps to mess around with. I can never tell how changes end up over time compared to how it was previously. Anyway, I have been playing with a few things, and it seems like there are way too many variables to balance out.
One thing I tried is to replace all the output filter caps on the board to Vishay MKT1817. Initially, it seemed clearer but details were missing. Now, I don't know anymore. I may put one channel back to compare. It seems kind of useless to replace these with similar cheap caps. There's no way I can justify spending any more on this. I have an 8ohm speaker, so I didn't change any of the original values.
Another was to try some new diodes. I had some fast MUR860 diodes (way overkill and large). It really fleshed out the sound in a way that was very pleasant. However, high frequencies were heavily attenuated, and it sounded a bit muddier overall. I have no idea what would be considered a good diode, and I can't find the original On Semiconductor 512 B13 diode on the website.
Also, I used the Vishay MKT1822 as input caps. The 2.2uf seemed have attenuated highs, so I added a 0.01uf cap. That balanced it out. Overall, it doesn't seem as detailed, but the tonality is good. I don't know how much, if any, this cap will change over time, but I still prefer the Obligatto PIOs over these for now. I'll have to swap back at a later time.
One thing I tried is to replace all the output filter caps on the board to Vishay MKT1817. Initially, it seemed clearer but details were missing. Now, I don't know anymore. I may put one channel back to compare. It seems kind of useless to replace these with similar cheap caps. There's no way I can justify spending any more on this. I have an 8ohm speaker, so I didn't change any of the original values.
Another was to try some new diodes. I had some fast MUR860 diodes (way overkill and large). It really fleshed out the sound in a way that was very pleasant. However, high frequencies were heavily attenuated, and it sounded a bit muddier overall. I have no idea what would be considered a good diode, and I can't find the original On Semiconductor 512 B13 diode on the website.
Also, I used the Vishay MKT1822 as input caps. The 2.2uf seemed have attenuated highs, so I added a 0.01uf cap. That balanced it out. Overall, it doesn't seem as detailed, but the tonality is good. I don't know how much, if any, this cap will change over time, but I still prefer the Obligatto PIOs over these for now. I'll have to swap back at a later time.
Dweekie thanks for the update. I'm getting a bunch of stuff in shortly as well and I'm thinking of ordering some caps now to compare against the Vishays. I'm leaning towards the Jupiter Beeswax caps. Like you I feel like I'm dropping a little too much cash into this inexpensive amp. Its definitely fun to play with, but ROI seems to going down the tubes! I just ordered a TKD pot, 2 sets of RCA's and the Nude Vishay resistors which just about equals the price of the amp itself. If I get the caps I'll be over so I don't know. I guess you can't put a price on fun...
recca said:
I ordered the Jupiter caps, so if you want to wait I'll tell you how they did 😀 I was going to go with the Obbs, but I'll wait for Rajacat to install them and hear what he has to say. We are both using Omega speakers with 4.5" hemp drivers.
I did install about 10K uF in stiffening caps on my Optima using 4 larger and 3 smaller caps. I haven't had enough time to try it out both ways, but I'm not sure the Optima really needs any help powering the little Trends. Other SLA bats might benefit more. If there is a difference it is very small.
Dave
too late I just ordered the jupiters. well if i don't use them on the trends i'll throw them on the dac-ah i should be getting soon. if you are going with the obb's let me know maybe i'll pick up the jup's from you. good to know about the stiffening caps. i only have a small 7ah battery so maybe it will help.
recca said:
Hi,
I'm going with the 2.0 uF 100V caps.
I just built some ICs using Jupiter's cotton insulated 28 ga silver wire and 20g copper magwire ground. I really like them so far. I am posting about them (with pics) here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=41863.msg396942;topicseen#new
Dave
recca. I bought a LiTe Dac AH About a year ago and have only just got around to fixing the circuit error and passive mod. Wow I wish I had done it months ago.
If you look back at the old threads in headfi you will see all the info as to how to correct the circuit error (assuming you get a version that runs at 6volts). You haev to change the resistor values at R35 & R36 to 160 ohms.
When doing the passive mods follow the advice given by "Tilt". (take the output from the holes near caps 12 & 13 i.e connect your new caps here) There is another mod shown which does not properly by-pass the op-amps, so be careful.
I have been experimenting with capacitor values for the passive mod and find that 15uf MKP polyprops (with 100k resistors to ground) give an awesome sound.
If you look back at the old threads in headfi you will see all the info as to how to correct the circuit error (assuming you get a version that runs at 6volts). You haev to change the resistor values at R35 & R36 to 160 ohms.
When doing the passive mods follow the advice given by "Tilt". (take the output from the holes near caps 12 & 13 i.e connect your new caps here) There is another mod shown which does not properly by-pass the op-amps, so be careful.
I have been experimenting with capacitor values for the passive mod and find that 15uf MKP polyprops (with 100k resistors to ground) give an awesome sound.
Puffin - Thanks for the tip! I was wondering where exactly and which values of caps to use. Actually I was also wondering about the necessity of the resistors as well but I'll experiment. I actually had not read about the circuit error regarding the resistors. I also am not sure about which version I'm getting. I'll do some searching though.
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