Re: Re: air core inductors
panomaniac said:
Those are some mighty big caps for the inputs. You really only need about 2uF. The big caps you have will give you a very large turn on "Thump!". You really don't need cap values that large, and may be better off not using them. They will work, but may not be optimum.
Thanks for the replies, has any one got any views on the silver litz air core inductors ? they do make a difference on the audiodigit 2020 kit
cheers mark,
Sorry I realized that I messed up the number after I posted but the site was down for a while so I couldn't update. Anyway model is MKT1822. Got them off of Mouser. Here's the thread. Normal Audio banter between around subjective and objective values...
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=42756.0
Think they were less than $5 each and I got one for the bias cap as well. Also just placed the order for the nude vishays as well. Damn those weren't cheap! If it wasn't for the fact that the vishay caps were so cheap I probably would've gotten something else.
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=42756.0
Think they were less than $5 each and I got one for the bias cap as well. Also just placed the order for the nude vishays as well. Damn those weren't cheap! If it wasn't for the fact that the vishay caps were so cheap I probably would've gotten something else.
Just read up on them. It kind of sounds like a one-man rant so far by Nagysaudio, even on this forum (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=105996). It's certeinly worth a shot and may catch on. I'll have to try some out.
Also, I used some Rubycon ZL caps in place of the Panasonic FM caps I had. I like the sound much better so far. There's a lot more clarity, but it sounds a bit bright. I need to figure out how to tame somehow.
Also, I used some Rubycon ZL caps in place of the Panasonic FM caps I had. I like the sound much better so far. There's a lot more clarity, but it sounds a bit bright. I need to figure out how to tame somehow.
I agree did sound like a one man show, but I figured its a small risk considering the price. If they don't work out, I'll probably try V-Cap's next. Sounds like things are pretty positive from the PIO and Auricap front so I figured I'd try some new stuff. My setup is going to be nearfield PC rig so I may not be able to evaluate soundstage and imaging as much.
BTW - Where did you get the Rubycon's from? Did you use 2700uF's?
BTW - Where did you get the Rubycon's from? Did you use 2700uF's?
I got them from www.referenceaudiomods.com. 16V 3300. However, they are too tall to fit in the original casing. The 35V 2200uf is the same size.
Thanks. I just found checked their site after googling rubycon zl. You think there's a big difference between the 2200 and 2700? I'd like to use the same case.
Also did you try changing the pot? I found a post regarding shunting and using a 50k pot with 47k resistors in series for the shunting. I ordered 2 47k vishays to try it with a 50k Alps. Any other suggestions? The vishays won't be ship till the 23rd though so i have some time to tinker with the other stuff first.
Also did you try changing the pot? I found a post regarding shunting and using a 50k pot with 47k resistors in series for the shunting. I ordered 2 47k vishays to try it with a 50k Alps. Any other suggestions? The vishays won't be ship till the 23rd though so i have some time to tinker with the other stuff first.
You will have to check the datasheet for the size. Use the 16v 3300uf as a reference; I just checked and I think it barely fits (height is the issue). I bent the caps a little and squeezed them down as far as they could. It's pretty tight in there.
I would think cap brand would affect sound more than the small capacitance changes. The Rubycon has been a surprisingly large change. It's relatively bright and very precise compared to the Panasonic FM.
I would think cap brand would affect sound more than the small capacitance changes. The Rubycon has been a surprisingly large change. It's relatively bright and very precise compared to the Panasonic FM.
Well I just got the trends and my new speakers for my computer rig (Aperion Audio 422). I ran things bone stock for 6 hours and then switched to battery power to listen for a little bit. I'm very impressed with the overall clarity, transparency and noise of this system on battery. The problem is that I have to integrate sub to get any kind of bass. The Aperion's only have 4" mids so no bass whatsoever but very clean mids.
How can I tap into the pot to run another set of outputs? Assuming I don't really care where I add the extra RCA's, is it as simple as paralleling a couple of wires off of the pot where it feeds the amp? I'm guessing no. Does anyone know of the "right" way of doing this?
Thanks!
How can I tap into the pot to run another set of outputs? Assuming I don't really care where I add the extra RCA's, is it as simple as paralleling a couple of wires off of the pot where it feeds the amp? I'm guessing no. Does anyone know of the "right" way of doing this?
Thanks!
recca. Have a look at www.audiomagus.com for a gadget to allow you to add a subwoofer at high level input, without bridging the speaker grounds.
Thanks Puffin, I saw these as I ordered my amp from Audiomagus as well but I figured since I'm going to operate on my amp I might as well add an output if possible.
If anyone knows what resistance pot to get and how to wire properly that would be greatly appreciated. Tentative plan is to get a 50k TKD and wire in shunt mode with 47k resistors.
If anyone knows what resistance pot to get and how to wire properly that would be greatly appreciated. Tentative plan is to get a 50k TKD and wire in shunt mode with 47k resistors.
For your input pot anything from 10K to 100K will work just fine.
The lower the value, the lower the noise. The higher the value, the easier it is to drive. So it's a trade-off you have to make depending on your system and your sources.
If you stay between 20K and 50K, you will be in safe waters.
The lower the value, the lower the noise. The higher the value, the easier it is to drive. So it's a trade-off you have to make depending on your system and your sources.
If you stay between 20K and 50K, you will be in safe waters.
Grrr.... dead stock ps
Lots of great info here! I'm using the Trends to power Omega XRS speakers with great results. I'll have to try the Obbligato caps soon... sounds like they might work well with the Omegas.
So, I'm a DIY nob, and my power supply just went out. At least I think thats the issue, I won't know for sure until I power it up again. I opened the unit and it looks and smells OK. I tried to make an arc with the power supply and got nothing (I have a multimeter but its not here at home).
I was considering:
1. I have a deep cycle Optima battery I'm not using, so I might try powering the amp from that. I assume I can find the right plug at Radio Shack?
2. Another plug-in 12V supply... what do you guys recommend? I know some were mentioned (scms?) but I'm not sure what that stands for, or what type of store would carry one?
Thanks!
Dave
Lots of great info here! I'm using the Trends to power Omega XRS speakers with great results. I'll have to try the Obbligato caps soon... sounds like they might work well with the Omegas.
So, I'm a DIY nob, and my power supply just went out. At least I think thats the issue, I won't know for sure until I power it up again. I opened the unit and it looks and smells OK. I tried to make an arc with the power supply and got nothing (I have a multimeter but its not here at home).
I was considering:
1. I have a deep cycle Optima battery I'm not using, so I might try powering the amp from that. I assume I can find the right plug at Radio Shack?
2. Another plug-in 12V supply... what do you guys recommend? I know some were mentioned (scms?) but I'm not sure what that stands for, or what type of store would carry one?
Thanks!
Dave
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