Trends Audio TA-10: Modding Potential?

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Battery

Sorry to jump in with a different question but could you use the TA-10 with a battery power supply?

I was thinking of a battery only option for critical listening and a charge/mains for when I am doing the washing up etc;) I'm thinking along the lines of a timed charge overnight when I get economy7 rates and the just a switch for the battery/mains option.

I thought this would go well with something like DCPreamp's battery powered pre. Then I could use an :eek: iPod :eek: for a totally mains free system.......I'll also use my Quad 99 CDP2 and Project deck.......if the iPod comment upset anyone:angel:

My speakers are effecient so ther is no worries on the load
 
i just got my ta-10.1, i found out that the volume level are slightly different between the 2 speakers, volume come out from the left speaker first when i turn the volume pot slowly from zero up. what's the best way to fix it? i sprayed wd lube on the volume pot and it still does not help. i changed the amp to power amp configuration and it work fine with no volume level different between the 2 speakers. any help will be appreciated!
ps: what's the best value for money speakers for this amp?
 
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Level difference is most likely the volume pot not tracking correctly. All you can do is replace the amp or the pot. Or use it in power amp mode with a preamp.

Inter-channel tracking is one of the reasons people pay big bucks for quality pots or stepped attenuators. Some cost more than the Trends!
 
thanks! michael, been reading your web site about the ta-10 mod, am thinking to mod in the future. i only have this amp 1 week, the dealer said i can send it back and replace with another one. been reading your web site about the ta-10 mod, am thinking to mod it in the future, if i am going to mod the pot like what u did, is that mean it will fix the problem itself, and no point spending money to send the amp back for a replacement?
 
Re: Bypass Caps

Hi Guys,

I have some bad news to report!! I was away on a trip a few days ago and my Missus reported that the Trends was clicking away, but that she had powered down the system. I thought nothing more of it until she later mentioned that the blue LED was still lit - I was using the SLA battery with the Trends. :hot:

Got home and the amp is DEAD!! Had a look at it today and replaced the Sonicaps into the amp, but with no improvement. I haven't yet got it onto the scope, but I do suspect that the Tripath chip has turned its toes up.

jonclancy said:
OK Folks,

Here is the list of caps I'll be trying out in slow time over the next few weeks.

Well, I'm afraid work will have to be postponed on the bypass cap trial until I either get the Trends back on it's feet, or sort out some other Class D amp to press into service. Anyone know where I can get a TA2024 from please? 41Hz don't do them as single chips.

I've had a few problems with lifted tracks, but I've repaired them all so far - it might even be easier for me to get another TA-10 and mod that to the same spec, but it's a pretty pricey option, to be honest, as I don't use the supplied SMPS, RCAs, pot, etc etc.

Any hints or tips gratefully received, including where to measure on the board. Any pointers or shortcuts would be great!!

Cheers

Jon :bawling:
 
hmmm that's bad news Jon. I think replacing the chip is actually a pretty hard job to do. This is something I always am a bit afraid of with every piece of equipment that I start modding. When it's dead it's dead and there is no direct replacement so not only the amp is gone all the work is too and that the really bad news. I'm feeling very sorry for you Jon.
 
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Hi John.
If the amp is clicking, you have a short circuit in the outputs somewhere. Not likely to be fatal. Check that 1st. The clicking noise is the over current protection.

If you did kill it (it happens) maybe you should just get a couple of Sonic Impact amps. Cheap enough and since you are replacing so much of it anyway....

You could even steal the aircore inductors off your dead Trends.

But check the outputs. I'll bet you have either a sort circuit, or you have a problem on the inputs causing massive DC offset.
 
Hi Pano,

Thanks very much for the pointers. The clicking started once I had installed the Obb PIOs, but I was a little lazy, and didn't get round to sorting it out as touching the top of on of the tank caps cured the problem!! :rolleyes:

I'll test the outputs for shorts and the DC offset and report back.

Cheers

Jon :)
 
OK, Things didn't go that well.

I got a couple of spare TA2024 from the UK supplier, Profusion PLC in Southend. Excellent service and priced at around a fiver a chip.

BAD NEWS: I trashed some tracks trying to remove the dead 2024. Should know better and snipped off the legs and done it slowly. Ah well. :rolleyes:

So - either I try and source a spare PCB for the TA10 and swap the parts over, find a kit based on the 2024, or just wait until I or someone else comes up with a use for the 2024 chips I have.

Suggestions welcome!! ;)

All the best

Jon :)
 
air core inductors

hello i am new on the forum but have been following this thread with interest as i have just got a 10.1 this week (have also ordered another one)
has any one tried Ansar Supersound caps ? i have got 2 CPA 50u j 550 volt & 4 CPA 22u j 550 V left over from a 2a3 project that never got started
:rolleyes: would either of these be any good to use ? (bigger caps the better !) :bigeyes: they are bigger than the whole amp :D
the other question is, is it worth changing the air core inductors for something else ? i have got 4 silver litz inductors from AudioDigit & wondered if these would make any difference :cool:
cheers
Mark, :D
 
the 50uF and 22uF /550V caps wouldn't make much of a difference. They are too big to mount them directly at the chip and they wouldn't benefit from mou nting them outside the case. You will need higher caoacitance at lower voltages. For mounting as close as possible to the chip the sm aller the cap the better. It's not a tube amp, it's a completely different topology.
 
dweekie said:
I put the Caddock Resistors in the input/feedback. I'm not quite sure what the characteristics of the MK132 resistors are compared to other resistors, but it is definitely quite a bit sweeter and smoother sounding than the original resistors. It seems to take the rough edges out of the sound, and the sound seems to float a bit more. For better or worse, I think these would be more of a personal preference, with most prefering the change. There are quite a few brands to try, so I'm sure there is quite a bit of tweaking ability with these resistors. Nude Vishays, Caddock TF1020, Kiwame, and Riken resistors may be other models you may want to read up on and try out based on availability. I'll probably try out the nude Vishays next, but I probably won't do any more since the costs add up with these resistors.

I also purchased a 12V 11A SMPS and attached it to the amp. The first five minutes were horrible, but they are getting better now. I'll have to let it run in some more before I make assessments on this. So far, the results are very promising.

I've tried finding some of the other brands you mentioned and I'm leaning towards trying the Riken Carbon Composites but they only come in 22ohm. Do you think that will make a big difference?
 
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Re: air core inductors

buddah2xa said:
i have got 2 CPA 50u j 550 volt & 4 CPA 22u j 550 V left over from a 2a3 project that never got started

Those are some mighty big caps for the inputs. You really only need about 2uF. The big caps you have will give you a very large turn on "Thump!". You really don't need cap values that large, and may be better off not using them. They will work, but may not be optimum.


recca said:
Riken Carbon Composites but they only come in 22ohm. Do you think that will make a big difference?

I hope you mean 22K ohm! Otherwise, yes, it will make a BIG difference. :eek:
 
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