recca. I thought I ought to add that for the money (and after the mods) the sound quality is very very good.
Puffin - Tried to find the post but couldn't. Would you mind sending me a PM with your email? I'd like to ask you some questions about the mod but would rather not take this thread on a tangent.
Thanks
Thanks
How does the TA-10 perform in the extreme high end? These look perfect for a tweeter amp when bi- or tri-amping if the DC offset is kept under control. Is there any switching noise?
OzMikeH said:Is there any switching noise?
Yes, and it will drive you crazy if you can hear up around 1MHz.

Puffin said:recca. It says that you have opted not to receive PM's on this site.
Puffin - Updated my profile. Thanks!
recca. I have PM'd you, but try these.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=200856
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=166545
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=200856
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=166545
recca said:nice! do you like both geometries so far?
The Anti-IC geometry is very good:
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=41863.new#new
Davec113 said:
I ordered the Jupiter caps, so if you want to wait I'll tell you how they did 😀 I was going to go with the Obbs, but I'll wait for Rajacat to install them and hear what he has to say. We are both using Omega speakers with 4.5" hemp drivers.
I did install about 10K uF in stiffening caps on my Optima using 4 larger and 3 smaller caps. I haven't had enough time to try it out both ways, but I'm not sure the Optima really needs any help powering the little Trends. Other SLA bats might benefit more. If there is a difference it is very small.
Dave
Just received the Jupiter Caps from Michael Percy. They are huge! Not Obbligato huge, but they are as long as the case itself and 2 of them side by side are about as wide! I think these will go in my Dac instead.
I just received my Obbs. I'll probably be able to install them this weekend and see how they mesh with my Omega Hemp Dipoles. I'm biamping my single drivers which actually have two drivers and two pairs of binding posts per speaker. I'll install the Obbs. in one amp and then do an A/B with the other amp.
My Audiomagnus battery power supply should be here any day now. I'll post inside and outside pics and give a short review. I have to adjust the length of the interconnects since my amps are now wired with long ICs and short (pure silver) speaker cables.
Raj
My Audiomagnus battery power supply should be here any day now. I'll post inside and outside pics and give a short review. I have to adjust the length of the interconnects since my amps are now wired with long ICs and short (pure silver) speaker cables.
Raj
rajacat said:
My Audiomagnus battery power supply should be here any day now. I'll post inside and outside pics and give a short review. I have to adjust the length of the interconnects since my amps are now wired with long ICs and short (pure silver) speaker cables.
Raj
Really? I preordered one too. Did Mike W contact you to say they are shipping?
recca said:
Really? I preordered one too. Did Mike W contact you to say they are shipping?
I received an email last Tuesday saying the the BPS should be in the mail by this Friday.
daggerlee said:Question, where are people getting the heatsinks to put on the tripath chip?
Ebay seller "wluk" has nice tall aluminum heatsinks. Look for the ramdac sinks.
www.newegg.com has shorter copper versions. Either version works well. Both have a small square of thermal tape on the bottom.
Cool, I just bought one from wluk. 🙂 Thanks for the info
Another question, I think I found the problem for my flickering LEDs, I measured the voltage and it is only getting 2.2-2.4 V (fluctuates). I am thinking of replacing the RLED, I measured it and it's 10K more or less. I want to replace the LED with one that takes around 3.2 V, how much should I reduce the resistor by?
Another question, I think I found the problem for my flickering LEDs, I measured the voltage and it is only getting 2.2-2.4 V (fluctuates). I am thinking of replacing the RLED, I measured it and it's 10K more or less. I want to replace the LED with one that takes around 3.2 V, how much should I reduce the resistor by?
Complete Noowb
Hi All,
I hope I am posting in the right place....
Received my first TA 10.1 yesterday - quite frankly I was blown away - it replaced a Rotel RA-1060 60 watt integrated, there is simply no comaparison, it reveals details and sounds I have never heard before...
My question is this:
In laymans terms how do I take two of these and biamp my speakers? I am using Kef IQ3's (biwired)?
Many thanks
Anthony
Hi All,
I hope I am posting in the right place....
Received my first TA 10.1 yesterday - quite frankly I was blown away - it replaced a Rotel RA-1060 60 watt integrated, there is simply no comaparison, it reveals details and sounds I have never heard before...
My question is this:
In laymans terms how do I take two of these and biamp my speakers? I am using Kef IQ3's (biwired)?
Many thanks
Anthony
Re: Complete Noowb
Here's some info:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=horizontal+vs+vertical+bi-amping
Good Luck,
Dave
Antman said:Hi All,
I hope I am posting in the right place....
Received my first TA 10.1 yesterday - quite frankly I was blown away - it replaced a Rotel RA-1060 60 watt integrated, there is simply no comaparison, it reveals details and sounds I have never heard before...
My question is this:
In laymans terms how do I take two of these and biamp my speakers? I am using Kef IQ3's (biwired)?
Many thanks
Anthony
Here's some info:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=horizontal+vs+vertical+bi-amping
Good Luck,
Dave
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