Alan Hope said:
Thats good news Alan🙂 I'm glad to hear your happy with it.
I'll be sure to keep my eye open for the JPS Ultraconductor, hopefully I can find it at a good price, I really do need some better speaker cable!
try some bulk anti-cable, only 1,25 dlr a foot ... Compared to nordost solar wind and blue heaven, it sounds fuller and much smoother, bass is better to.
I opened my trend amp box today to switch it into a power amp.
But i don't understand how i should put the jumpers.
Right now they are like this how should i change them to bypass the put to use it as a pure power amp.
I I
I I
I I
I I
But i don't understand how i should put the jumpers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Right now they are like this how should i change them to bypass the put to use it as a pure power amp.
I I
I I
I I
I I
Right now you have 1->2 and 3->4 jumpered on each channel.
Remove one pair of jumpers and save. Move the remaining two jumpers to jumper together 2->3 (input to cap)
Remove one pair of jumpers and save. Move the remaining two jumpers to jumper together 2->3 (input to cap)
Jumpers
It's late, but as I recall, this is explained in detail in the manual. I sent mine to t. for a listen, and forgot to tell him I'd configured as a power amp......
😉
Cheers
Jon
It's late, but as I recall, this is explained in detail in the manual. I sent mine to t. for a listen, and forgot to tell him I'd configured as a power amp......
😉 Cheers
Jon
Re: Jumpers
You still up too
I can still remember me jumping out of my skin first time I fired your amp up😀
jonclancy said:It's late, but as I recall, this is explained in detail in the manual. I sent mine to t. for a listen, and forgot to tell him I'd configured as a power amp......
Cheers
Jon
You still up too
I can still remember me jumping out of my skin first time I fired your amp up😀
I put the Caddock Resistors in the input/feedback. I'm not quite sure what the characteristics of the MK132 resistors are compared to other resistors, but it is definitely quite a bit sweeter and smoother sounding than the original resistors. It seems to take the rough edges out of the sound, and the sound seems to float a bit more. For better or worse, I think these would be more of a personal preference, with most prefering the change. There are quite a few brands to try, so I'm sure there is quite a bit of tweaking ability with these resistors. Nude Vishays, Caddock TF1020, Kiwame, and Riken resistors may be other models you may want to read up on and try out based on availability. I'll probably try out the nude Vishays next, but I probably won't do any more since the costs add up with these resistors.
I also purchased a 12V 11A SMPS and attached it to the amp. The first five minutes were horrible, but they are getting better now. I'll have to let it run in some more before I make assessments on this. So far, the results are very promising.
I also purchased a 12V 11A SMPS and attached it to the amp. The first five minutes were horrible, but they are getting better now. I'll have to let it run in some more before I make assessments on this. So far, the results are very promising.
By the way, thank you everyone for helping out with all the mods. This is actually my first modding attempt at anything, and I never imagined I would ever get to where I am with this amp. Compared to the stock amp, it's not the same amp anymore, as the sound has completely transformed. There's not too much more I can do with this amp. I am looking at replacing the caps as I mentioned earlier. Hopefully it will improve the sound some more. It has really been fun going all out on these mods.
Can you give us an overview of the mods you did and what the effect on the sound quality was. I know it's all in the previous posts but a little summary would be nice for us readers.
I still want to do some more mods myself but at the moment I have decided fisrt to let them run in for a month 24/7 on the test bench at half power with pink noise. Last time I have checked they were indeed better (after about 5 days 24/7 that was), highs where much better now, much less anoying sounding but sill not nearly as good as my other amps, some modding is needed
I still want to do some more mods myself but at the moment I have decided fisrt to let them run in for a month 24/7 on the test bench at half power with pink noise. Last time I have checked they were indeed better (after about 5 days 24/7 that was), highs where much better now, much less anoying sounding but sill not nearly as good as my other amps, some modding is needed
dweekie said:
Thats great Dweekie well done! thank you for posting the results with the Caddocks
The Caddock TF1020 are nice resistors but physically big compared to the standards, I've not tried the nude Vishays which are supposed to be good
1. Input Caps - Obbligato PIO 2.2uf
2. Power Supply - Battery
3. Resistors - Caddock MK132 20.0k
4. Power tank cap - Panasonic FM 2700uf
5. Copper sheilding around aircore inductors
6. Heatsink on Tripath chip
I feel that the first 3 mods listed above did the most for the sound, with improvements in everything. I didn't notice much of a difference with the Panasonic caps. I am also running everything outside the original case, as it affected the sound a bit. I think this shows that ERS paper or new casing could be used to tune the sound.
The SMPS power supply I have is causing distortion in lower frequencies; hopefully a stiffener cap will fix that.
The resistors are still breaking in and sounding very different now. It seems to make the sound very clean and "fast" and lively. The difference is very large now, so I feel that people should definitely try this mod. It seems to be one that I haven't read about much before. The Caddock is still breaking in, so I still can't make final judgements on this particular model, but so far it is very lively. If you're trying to darken up the sound, this model isn't one you should use.
These are my experiences so far. However, I listen to this hours at a time through the break-in process. Most mods have made the sound worse initially, so that probably affected my judgements on the sound a little. I know that when the sound gets to a certein point where I listen to the music instead of the change due to the mod, then it's been a successful mod. 🙂
The mods I'm looking at next are:
1. SMPS
2. Capacitors
3. Binding posts
4. Volume Pot
5. Input Wire
6. New Case
2. Power Supply - Battery
3. Resistors - Caddock MK132 20.0k
4. Power tank cap - Panasonic FM 2700uf
5. Copper sheilding around aircore inductors
6. Heatsink on Tripath chip
I feel that the first 3 mods listed above did the most for the sound, with improvements in everything. I didn't notice much of a difference with the Panasonic caps. I am also running everything outside the original case, as it affected the sound a bit. I think this shows that ERS paper or new casing could be used to tune the sound.
The SMPS power supply I have is causing distortion in lower frequencies; hopefully a stiffener cap will fix that.
The resistors are still breaking in and sounding very different now. It seems to make the sound very clean and "fast" and lively. The difference is very large now, so I feel that people should definitely try this mod. It seems to be one that I haven't read about much before. The Caddock is still breaking in, so I still can't make final judgements on this particular model, but so far it is very lively. If you're trying to darken up the sound, this model isn't one you should use.
These are my experiences so far. However, I listen to this hours at a time through the break-in process. Most mods have made the sound worse initially, so that probably affected my judgements on the sound a little. I know that when the sound gets to a certein point where I listen to the music instead of the change due to the mod, then it's been a successful mod. 🙂
The mods I'm looking at next are:
1. SMPS
2. Capacitors
3. Binding posts
4. Volume Pot
5. Input Wire
6. New Case
Dweekie do you have a picture you can show us with all your modifications?
Anybody who tried the mardis modded amp with Obbligato PIO 2.2uf
Anybody who tried the mardis modded amp with Obbligato PIO 2.2uf
Shiznit said:
I think there's a new thread on input caps with the Auricap and Obbligato on the list of caps to compare. The previous thread had the Obbligatos but not the Auricaps.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=101344&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
I have a little probelm with my stock amp, the problem comes when i am moving the volume up or down i get a scratching sound in the speakers and some times the sound dissapears in one of the speakers.
What can be done to fix this problem?
Best Regards David
What can be done to fix this problem?
Best Regards David
Hi David,
Sounds like you have a dodgy pot, maybe theres some dirt getting stuck in the wipers or damaged track.
you may be able to cure it with a bit of switch cleaner if its muck, if its the pots track thats damaged it'll need replacing
other causes that can give a rustling sound is dc offset
Sounds like you have a dodgy pot, maybe theres some dirt getting stuck in the wipers or damaged track.
you may be able to cure it with a bit of switch cleaner if its muck, if its the pots track thats damaged it'll need replacing
other causes that can give a rustling sound is dc offset
Yes, I am interested in modding my TA10.1 so details of what you did and the effect would be very helpful.
Has anyone else thought of changing the 0,1uF Ca cap near the Tripath chip. In the TA2024 datasheet this one is called the biascap and it refers the input opamps to ground at pin 16 of the chip. |Since this is the reference on wich the opamp amplifies (buffers in this case) it is directly in the signal path and therefore as important as the input caps.
Just have to find a good quality 0,1uF cap of reasonable size. Anybody any recommendations ? I guess the value of 0,1 uF is not that critical, good as well be a bit bigger as long as the size of the cap isn't much bigger, something like the Obbligato's would be way out of place here.
Just have to find a good quality 0,1uF cap of reasonable size. Anybody any recommendations ? I guess the value of 0,1 uF is not that critical, good as well be a bit bigger as long as the size of the cap isn't much bigger, something like the Obbligato's would be way out of place here.
Just thought of a (maybe) possible way to get rid of the input cap. Since the the offset voltage on the input is about 2.5 volts at the inverted input the same voltage must be present on the non-inverting input as well. This means that between the inveting and the non-inverting input there is no offset voltage (2.5V -2.5V = 0V). Well there might be as little as one mV due to the inperfection of the input op-amp offcoarse.
Thinking of this I came up with the following input schematic. Don't know if it will work though, maybe I'm missing something here, don't know yet. Anyone any thoughts on this ?
picture quality is not perfect but readable i guess.
The idea is to use a 1:1 input transformer and let the primary input float from ground (at least from the ground of the Tripath amp) On the secondary side the positive lead will be connected to the same point as the input with a coupling cap would be but at the negative (ground) side it will not be connected to the analog ground of the amp but directly to pin 16, the non-inverting input of the op-amp wich is AC referred to ground via Ca (the bias-cap)
Thinking of this I came up with the following input schematic. Don't know if it will work though, maybe I'm missing something here, don't know yet. Anyone any thoughts on this ?
picture quality is not perfect but readable i guess.
The idea is to use a 1:1 input transformer and let the primary input float from ground (at least from the ground of the Tripath amp) On the secondary side the positive lead will be connected to the same point as the input with a coupling cap would be but at the negative (ground) side it will not be connected to the analog ground of the amp but directly to pin 16, the non-inverting input of the op-amp wich is AC referred to ground via Ca (the bias-cap)
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