Have you tried adding series resistance to the tweeter, like 10 ohms, 47 ohms, or even 100 ohms, and readjusting the EQ to compensate? This will make the amplifier less sensitive to spurious voltages and currents generated by the speaker operating as a microphone. The phase of the echoes produced by cone break-up, box modes, and so on, is unpredictable.
I'm getting good results from my current feedback prototype amp, and the low damping factor — the relative insensitivity to microphone signals — is, so far, the best explanation that I have.
I'm getting good results from my current feedback prototype amp, and the low damping factor — the relative insensitivity to microphone signals — is, so far, the best explanation that I have.
in my limited experience with tweeters in hifi (i'm more a fullranger driver guy), it looks that a tweeter is at it's best when it's crossover over high, at least 4x the resonance frequency. And it integrates the best when put as close as possible to the mid driver (of FR driver). I have no scientific explenation for it, only experiences in (re)builds i did for other people. And a good waveguide certainly help to make it sound better, but often makes it hard to put the tweeter close enough to the mid driver. Most bad sounding tweeters sound bad because they are crossed to low (wich causes distortion and a uneven response), and because they don't integrate good with the mid driver in my limited experience.
But as said, i'm not a specialist, and i leave it to them to find an explenation for this. I just wanted to share my experience on this.
But as said, i'm not a specialist, and i leave it to them to find an explenation for this. I just wanted to share my experience on this.
I can attenuate any part of the high frequencies of the speakers (thanks to the DSP) but then the sound becomes dull, airless etc and still hearing "anomalies" that is not natural to my ears.
Try to connect a 1uF capacitor in parallel with the resistor which is connected in series with the tweeter.
Try to connect a 1uF capacitor in parallel with the resistor which is connected in series with the tweeter.
ribbons do from 10k to whatver the limit of the speakers dsp or dac is , but i am pretty much def from 18k up
There is a reason for Harman Kardon making it's ultra wide frequency respond receiver (beyond human hearing). I believe if a tweeter can reproduce very high frequencies (>20kHz). It may sound "less dull" and "more air".
There's very little energy above 8-10Khz. When I seek good "openness" or "air" in a speaker. I mostly go for a good integration between midrange and tweeter, cause I believe that this is the most important. Everything above 17Khz-ish - is a wash.
Why do I need an imepedance change, with a passive component, when my amplifier is connected directly to the tweeter, with tons of grip, control and not a care in the world to deliver the few watts needed to handle it's peak power??
Why do I need an imepedance change, with a passive component, when my amplifier is connected directly to the tweeter, with tons of grip, control and not a care in the world to deliver the few watts needed to handle it's peak power??
I dont set a high limit freq response but i dont know what the nanodigi(dsp) , the dac (wolfson 8740) or my valve amp do above 20k . Are you sure what you are hearing above 20k isnt some kind of distortion ? I had a female cat that as soon as i pressed play on the cd player even with low volume intro songs, would run the hell out of there , i´m pretty sure she could hear to the garbage above 20k , player was a 500€ Sony cant remember the model...
DOn't know really but I strongly doubt... cause voices are mostly 100 Hz to 9 k Ht but exceptions... and are per nature NON harmonic ! But the tweeter unit can perhaps rules the perception of the voice below its XO, so you can ask yourself about the mid-woof which can be also a good one with a good XO involved...
Wanted to ask you about that, what's the xo and the caps incolved in serie with the tweeter please ? Have you tried a MKT instead a Polypro for the little thing that is annoying you ?
Wanted to ask you about that, what's the xo and the caps incolved in serie with the tweeter please ? Have you tried a MKT instead a Polypro for the little thing that is annoying you ?
@ diyiggy
If you ask me, I am using Hypex Fusionamp with DSP crossover and without any passive elements between the drivers and the amps. Some are adviced otherwise to use a cap or l-pad, but this is exactly what I want to avoid and I am happy do get rid of the passive parts.
Otherwise, with my previous passive speakers I used to like the cheapest Jantzen MKP (Cross Cap) in series with the tweeter although I tried more expensive types but I always came back to Jantzen CC. I found it "quieter" (but the SPL was the same) and more integrated than Superior Z for example which always drawed attention to itself, in my speakers. I also liked some MKT too. Just to answer your question.
If you ask me, I am using Hypex Fusionamp with DSP crossover and without any passive elements between the drivers and the amps. Some are adviced otherwise to use a cap or l-pad, but this is exactly what I want to avoid and I am happy do get rid of the passive parts.
Otherwise, with my previous passive speakers I used to like the cheapest Jantzen MKP (Cross Cap) in series with the tweeter although I tried more expensive types but I always came back to Jantzen CC. I found it "quieter" (but the SPL was the same) and more integrated than Superior Z for example which always drawed attention to itself, in my speakers. I also liked some MKT too. Just to answer your question.
Fortunately we can choose what we prefer. There are soft and hard membrane drivers, neither is perfect.
Thanks YSDR....
Just guessing, have you also tried capacitive cables between the fusion amp and the drivers ? Some say it gives a better result but it was with the old hypex diy modules....maybe something to try as your ears seems very sensible in the presence frequencies area ???
@yky... have you listened the Harbeth having Seas metal tweeters and noticed a difference in highs with the other models with soft domes ?... Very strange also their hybrid with a soft 26 mm tweeter and a metal 19 mm above?? They do like there is some informations in the 10k above area... while they sound neutral yet and slighty warm ? Any thoughts on this please if we speak about tweeters qnd how to be good ?
Just guessing, have you also tried capacitive cables between the fusion amp and the drivers ? Some say it gives a better result but it was with the old hypex diy modules....maybe something to try as your ears seems very sensible in the presence frequencies area ???
@yky... have you listened the Harbeth having Seas metal tweeters and noticed a difference in highs with the other models with soft domes ?... Very strange also their hybrid with a soft 26 mm tweeter and a metal 19 mm above?? They do like there is some informations in the 10k above area... while they sound neutral yet and slighty warm ? Any thoughts on this please if we speak about tweeters qnd how to be good ?
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@diyiggy
Capacitive cables? Why not a capacitor then?
Anyway, there are more things that is changed with the new tweeter. The old was relative low efficiency, low impedance, soft dome with uncontrolled directivity. The new is the opposite, high eff, higher impedance, metal dome, controlled directivity. One similar thing is the low harmonic distortion for both.
Capacitive cables? Why not a capacitor then?
Anyway, there are more things that is changed with the new tweeter. The old was relative low efficiency, low impedance, soft dome with uncontrolled directivity. The new is the opposite, high eff, higher impedance, metal dome, controlled directivity. One similar thing is the low harmonic distortion for both.
Why, are you asking?...maybe because not a capacitor, slighty different esl, esr relations, very low values without using resistor, inductor and cap...but the extreme low values of them from the cable ? Something different than the difference between two button position on the plate amp ?
So you use metal dome now instead the ScanSpeak ring radiator ? Problem solved ?
So you use metal dome now instead the ScanSpeak ring radiator ? Problem solved ?
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