When o disconnected the ST's the higher frequencies sounded much better "I thinck'? But a couple of hours listing time will let me know what to do.
Any suggestions on which ST to replace the previous Coles4001?
I'd rather buy 2ST's together than 1 to replace to keep the balance even.
That's exactly how much I have done. It's a shame that they didn't work, bit never mind. The top end is nice I'm not hearing I'm missing much. Connecting these speakers to myy Pioneer er420 I will be able to use bass and tweeter for equalisation.Your super tweeters may be regarded as superfluous!
I would disconnect the one that "works" and physically retain both for decorative purposes.
One question, what would the ohm's be on these speakers?
Same question for the other TL speakers I have
Do you mean the overall impedance of the speaker as a complete unit or the individual impedances of the drivers (W, M, T and ST)?
Direct replacements are available here:
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/coles/coles-ce-4001k-super-tweeter-7ohm
https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/coles-4001g-16-ohm-super-tweeter.html
Back in post #60 you said you 'believed' that the ST was 16 ohm (also that M was 8 ohm, T was 4 ohm).
The amount of damping is important in a correctly working transmission line. It needs to be dense enough to absorb the harmonics but light enough to let the fundamental through and out the port. TLs from the 70s often used fluffy wool which tended to both settle and get eaten by insects degrading the performance of the line. Not easy to do much about it once the panels are glued down.
Thanks, it was for the speaker as it is now 3way..
The other I have never had the need to open however? Is was thinking of rotating the W and B
180 because iv had them for over 10 years naw
Thanks. .just move cost, do think crossover's for both is a good idea? Or both crossover and drivers
Then the overall impedance may be taken as that of the woofer. Do you know what that figure is?
If you don't then buy a multimeter and get a reading of its DC resistance (DCR), e.g., 12 ohm.
Then add on one third of its DCR (4 ohm) to get an estimate of the nominal impedance (16 ohm).
Just more cost indeed! Unfortunately, I don't understand the rest of your post.
Ow I meant iif upgrades on drivers or crossovers would be a good idea. I want to keep originally but also improvement. It's a difficult balance
I would consider replacing the ELCAP capacitors as their capacitance values may have changed significantly since 1979.
I mean the ones that look like this:
If you have a multimeter (and no speaker renovator should be without one!) which includes a capacitance scale, you could always check whether any have drifted in value or not.
I recommend Mundorf ECaps as replacements: https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf-electrolytic-ecap-capacitors
Unfortunately, I'm neither in the position to upgrade the crossover design nor to comment on replacement drivers.
I mean the ones that look like this:
If you have a multimeter (and no speaker renovator should be without one!) which includes a capacitance scale, you could always check whether any have drifted in value or not.
I recommend Mundorf ECaps as replacements: https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/mundorf-electrolytic-ecap-capacitors
Unfortunately, I'm neither in the position to upgrade the crossover design nor to comment on replacement drivers.
In Rogers’ article for the mark 2 he specifies the points along the line length where the long haired wool was to be placed. The density mentioned was 1/2 to 3/4 lb / cubic foot as well as subjective adjustments as necessary. Present day recommendations eg King, horn models and measurements are available to us these days.
I pulled out from the end of the line an amount to easy fill 2 cubic ft box!!
Emedeatly a felt/herd the difference. Shocking it was compressed into 1/4 ft area. I'm going to do behind the B139 later.