Hi TNT and zek 🙂
You are right: I will say: 'it' (in France we say a (he/masculine) amp and not a (she/feminine) amp).
I haven't posted any interior pictures yet because the ground terminals are not CE compliant colors and I don't want to set a bad example by posting them here.
I expect these pods ordered last night on AMAZON in a few hours if all goes well.
I can tell you in advance that in my opinion there is no audible difference with the SYLPH D200MKII PCB.
However, the advantage of the 3eAudio PCB is its cooling system but it is also a constraint on assembly since it must be disassembled if it is to be very precisely adjusted to the chassis (which I did).
Another point: the regret of not being able to change OPAMP on the 3eAudio PCB 🙁
I would have liked to be able to put OPA828s in there because they really make the sound of these PCBs more 'warm' and musical in my opinion.
Otherwise these two PCBs are in my humble opinion free of defects and VERY 'resolving': they lend themselves with great skill to use in 'MONITORING' for those who wish.
Musically, these PCBs are, in my opinion, ahead of the creations of TOPPING and SMSL, not to mention the various Chinese creations that can be found almost everywhere, even in the form of 'ready-to-use' devices.
You are right: I will say: 'it' (in France we say a (he/masculine) amp and not a (she/feminine) amp).
I haven't posted any interior pictures yet because the ground terminals are not CE compliant colors and I don't want to set a bad example by posting them here.
I expect these pods ordered last night on AMAZON in a few hours if all goes well.
I can tell you in advance that in my opinion there is no audible difference with the SYLPH D200MKII PCB.
However, the advantage of the 3eAudio PCB is its cooling system but it is also a constraint on assembly since it must be disassembled if it is to be very precisely adjusted to the chassis (which I did).
Another point: the regret of not being able to change OPAMP on the 3eAudio PCB 🙁
I would have liked to be able to put OPA828s in there because they really make the sound of these PCBs more 'warm' and musical in my opinion.
Otherwise these two PCBs are in my humble opinion free of defects and VERY 'resolving': they lend themselves with great skill to use in 'MONITORING' for those who wish.
Musically, these PCBs are, in my opinion, ahead of the creations of TOPPING and SMSL, not to mention the various Chinese creations that can be found almost everywhere, even in the form of 'ready-to-use' devices.
Hi, I'm back 
Here is the inside of the amplifier: I am still missing 1 yellow terminal (1) and the special connector for the button on the front (2) ->
The yellow terminal (1) and the connector for the switch (2) will be fitted as soon as they are received this week.
Some informations:
I ran the amplifier at high level for more than 4 hours in a row: NO heating😀
The chassis is barely warm around the amp PCB (it was fixed with 6 screws and ARTIC MX6 thermal paste also used for contact with the TPA3255 chip).
The 600 watt PFC power supply regulated at 48VDC (without any variation) not only does not heat it up but it is almost cold !!!
I was able to leave the top of my hand resting on the finned radiator and I had a hard time feeling a slight heat despite being quite sensitive to it.
I don't have a measuring device to test the performance of the power supply in terms of noise, but it is super stable (no variation when empty or under load despite network fluctuations here in France) and above all VERY efficient at regard to the power required with almost no heat released 😎
The internal wiring has been made as short as possible and EVERYTHING is fixed.
The two wires with very tight braids that come out of the power supply to go to the amplifier PCB receive two layers of copper shielding: a copper sheet separated by a PVC insulator from the second shielding this time in tinned copper braid, a another PVC sheath covers the whole which is in turn enclosed in heat-shrinkable sheath.
The same principle was used for the input signal wires but this time with two layers of copper foil shielding separated from each other by cotton thread.
The wires for the loudspeakers are made of 1.5mm2 copper and simply braided and above all very short.
The power supply wires from the mains are simply braided and receive a protective PVC sheath covered by heat-shrink sheath.
That's all !
-> Just do it yourself and simply 😉
NB: there is enough empty space in front of the amp PCB to put a balanced volume potentiometer to allow the use of DACs which do not have a volume control.
Here is the inside of the amplifier: I am still missing 1 yellow terminal (1) and the special connector for the button on the front (2) ->
The yellow terminal (1) and the connector for the switch (2) will be fitted as soon as they are received this week.
Some informations:
I ran the amplifier at high level for more than 4 hours in a row: NO heating😀
The chassis is barely warm around the amp PCB (it was fixed with 6 screws and ARTIC MX6 thermal paste also used for contact with the TPA3255 chip).
The 600 watt PFC power supply regulated at 48VDC (without any variation) not only does not heat it up but it is almost cold !!!
I was able to leave the top of my hand resting on the finned radiator and I had a hard time feeling a slight heat despite being quite sensitive to it.
I don't have a measuring device to test the performance of the power supply in terms of noise, but it is super stable (no variation when empty or under load despite network fluctuations here in France) and above all VERY efficient at regard to the power required with almost no heat released 😎
The internal wiring has been made as short as possible and EVERYTHING is fixed.
The two wires with very tight braids that come out of the power supply to go to the amplifier PCB receive two layers of copper shielding: a copper sheet separated by a PVC insulator from the second shielding this time in tinned copper braid, a another PVC sheath covers the whole which is in turn enclosed in heat-shrinkable sheath.
The same principle was used for the input signal wires but this time with two layers of copper foil shielding separated from each other by cotton thread.
The wires for the loudspeakers are made of 1.5mm2 copper and simply braided and above all very short.
The power supply wires from the mains are simply braided and receive a protective PVC sheath covered by heat-shrink sheath.
That's all !
-> Just do it yourself and simply 😉
NB: there is enough empty space in front of the amp PCB to put a balanced volume potentiometer to allow the use of DACs which do not have a volume control.
I see you have grounded to chassis in two different places - quite far away from each other - is this wise form ground-loop wise perspective? Usually we see a grounding to chassis immediately at the intake and no more - no?
Do you have a slight hum?
//
Do you have a slight hum?
//
Good morning TNT 🙂
There is absolutely no hum: the chassis cannot form a ground loop, the two points away from 'earth' (chassis ground) have almost infinite resistance, as if they were connected at a single point .
Their arrangement has been made in this way so that we can clearly see that nothing has been forgotten: the power supply PCB is also completely isolated from the chassis by PVC columns, on its PCB, its 'earth' point is not connected to nothing, it is just there in case a fault could occur, therefore for safety.
The amp PCB is not in 'floating point', the masses are linked together at the level of the chassis inputs, that's why I didn't put a ground lift here since it is useless.
The only possibility of a ground loop could be through the connection cables with the source, which is very unlikely, I would say not even at all with XLR connections like here.
😉
There is absolutely no hum: the chassis cannot form a ground loop, the two points away from 'earth' (chassis ground) have almost infinite resistance, as if they were connected at a single point .
Their arrangement has been made in this way so that we can clearly see that nothing has been forgotten: the power supply PCB is also completely isolated from the chassis by PVC columns, on its PCB, its 'earth' point is not connected to nothing, it is just there in case a fault could occur, therefore for safety.
The amp PCB is not in 'floating point', the masses are linked together at the level of the chassis inputs, that's why I didn't put a ground lift here since it is useless.
The only possibility of a ground loop could be through the connection cables with the source, which is very unlikely, I would say not even at all with XLR connections like here.
😉
what a great DIY amp!!!Hi, I'm back
Here is the inside of the amplifier: I am still missing 1 yellow terminal (1) and the special connector for the button on the front (2) ->
View attachment 1168299
The yellow terminal (1) and the connector for the switch (2) will be fitted as soon as they are received this week.
Some informations:
I ran the amplifier at high level for more than 4 hours in a row: NO heating😀
The chassis is barely warm around the amp PCB (it was fixed with 6 screws and ARTIC MX6 thermal paste also used for contact with the TPA3255 chip).
The 600 watt PFC power supply regulated at 48VDC (without any variation) not only does not heat it up but it is almost cold !!!
I was able to leave the top of my hand resting on the finned radiator and I had a hard time feeling a slight heat despite being quite sensitive to it.
I don't have a measuring device to test the performance of the power supply in terms of noise, but it is super stable (no variation when empty or under load despite network fluctuations here in France) and above all VERY efficient at regard to the power required with almost no heat released 😎
The internal wiring has been made as short as possible and EVERYTHING is fixed.
The two wires with very tight braids that come out of the power supply to go to the amplifier PCB receive two layers of copper shielding: a copper sheet separated by a PVC insulator from the second shielding this time in tinned copper braid, a another PVC sheath covers the whole which is in turn enclosed in heat-shrinkable sheath.
The same principle was used for the input signal wires but this time with two layers of copper foil shielding separated from each other by cotton thread.
The wires for the loudspeakers are made of 1.5mm2 copper and simply braided and above all very short.
The power supply wires from the mains are simply braided and receive a protective PVC sheath covered by heat-shrink sheath.
That's all !
-> Just do it yourself and simply 😉
NB: there is enough empty space in front of the amp PCB to put a balanced volume potentiometer to allow the use of DACs which do not have a volume control.
it is good to see you use some power supply from China company also
you box looks can make a 4 channel(2 board) if place SMPS in the front and AMP in the back.
IMO, for these high performance amplifier won't use passive pot for volume instead of a DAC.
Enjoy.
Hello 3eaudio 🙂
Thanks for the compliment 😉
Yes this power supply is excellent, I highly recommend it for its power availability (600W), its soft-start and PFC functions but above all its almost zero heat dissipation !👍
Interesting detail, a good quality AC filter is integrated too on the PCB input 😀
Its dimensions are 184mm long x 88mm wide x 43mm high.
I forgot to mention that it can be found here ->
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.20.74505e5boqYqn8&gatewayAdapt=glo2eng
We can actually make a 4-channel amplifier as you say, which can be interesting in home cinema or multi-amplification 😎
You're right about the passive potentiometer since current DAC chips have an internal digital output level adjustment so there's no need to put one in except for older sources making it useless in this case even wider 👈
Regards.
Thanks for the compliment 😉
Yes this power supply is excellent, I highly recommend it for its power availability (600W), its soft-start and PFC functions but above all its almost zero heat dissipation !👍
Interesting detail, a good quality AC filter is integrated too on the PCB input 😀
Its dimensions are 184mm long x 88mm wide x 43mm high.
I forgot to mention that it can be found here ->
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.20.74505e5boqYqn8&gatewayAdapt=glo2eng
We can actually make a 4-channel amplifier as you say, which can be interesting in home cinema or multi-amplification 😎
You're right about the passive potentiometer since current DAC chips have an internal digital output level adjustment so there's no need to put one in except for older sources making it useless in this case even wider 👈
Regards.
A bargain is currently available on 48V, 500W Meanwell UHP (high performance) line of SMPS, UHP-500-48. Seller is currently accepting offers and I know he is motivated to sell. I already have enough SMPS or I would snap up a couple of these myself!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225590377320
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225590377320
I was hoping someone could hep me troubleshoot. I built a 3 channel amp (containing a single 1200w micro-audio power supply and three tpa3255 mono boards.) I picked up a pair of the new 3E mono boards (with PFFB) for this build. My newer 3e boards emit a high pitched whine with this installation. Before you assume that it's a grounding problem .....neither the sylphD400M board (that I am using for the center channel) or my older 3e mono (version 1) boards have this problem connected to the same power supply. I did perform the suggested modification to convert them to SE inputs. It was a bit rough as my soldering skills were not up to working with something that small. But, I think I got it done and both boards work. Only, they both have a whine. Any idea what could be causing it? or, how to resolve it?
May be a master slave problem to configure on the cards... Or try with two separate power supplies.
typically related to grounding.
can show how is your setup or a connection drawing?
Do you plan to release TPA3251 version in near future? Especially with low gain (something like Sylphy d100)
Do you get the whine if all inputs are shorted to ground at the chassis? Use a shorting plug or make one if you do not have one.
Hello 3eAudio:
Will you be offering any mono TPA3255 boards? Your AliExpress store shows zero in stock:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804597954883.html
I would like to buy a pair or two with heatsink.
Hi @CharlieLaub
we are planning to build more in coming month after some other folks also intresting in Mono board for their project.
probably available at beginning of Sept.
Thanks!
we are planning to build more in coming month after some other folks also intresting in Mono board for their project.
probably available at beginning of Sept.
Thanks!
I'm planning to build a pair of two-way active speakers, and here's my question. Do you think using a single power supply (just like yours) would be a good choice to power two 3e TPA3255 amplifiers?