Bull's Eye Dani. thanks.
In that case may be my A04 has problem.
I know about 360/XRK designs with PFFB design and is definitely Leagues ahead in terms of SQ & Parts Quality also. Both using top notch parts.
Thanks to you,Chris & Doc , TPA3250/51/55 threads, being great help and source for learning.
I think you are mentioning about 32V/5A power block? because the power caps in A04 is only 35V, unless u upgraded them to 50V
I use a 36V / 6A power block ) works fine despite of the 35V power Caps =) I might be crazy )))
I emailed 3e directly. He said no but the instructions to implement PFFB are on his website
Checkout measurements PFFB vs no PFFB :
https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slaa788a/...30288&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slaa788a/...30288&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
Opinion/help needed. The 3e-audio-TPA3255 2ch 260w I bought is rated a 51V and 600rs and being in the US the input voltage is 120V. The problem is most of the SMPS suppliers, including Connex think it is still 110V. Not realizing this I purchased a 110V version from Aliexpress that looked workable and when i finally received it and tested it the output was 55V at 120v, and is too high.
Lesson learned. So I put an order in for a Connex smps600rs-48v-230v that was listed as available at an authorized site and received a message telling me that the 230v is for the European market and the 110v is for the American market but this is incorrect - it has been 120v for decades and shouldn't they know this? The documentation for this supply states that it is switchable between 230 and 120 via jumper so it appears that it should work.
I'm still new at this and don't want to blow-up my amplifiers. Have any of you had this experience and what do you suggest I do? Thanks.
Lesson learned. So I put an order in for a Connex smps600rs-48v-230v that was listed as available at an authorized site and received a message telling me that the 230v is for the European market and the 110v is for the American market but this is incorrect - it has been 120v for decades and shouldn't they know this? The documentation for this supply states that it is switchable between 230 and 120 via jumper so it appears that it should work.
I'm still new at this and don't want to blow-up my amplifiers. Have any of you had this experience and what do you suggest I do? Thanks.
I have a correction - The vendor just updated me that the Connex 110v is designed to work with any voltage between 98 and 127v and the output doesn't change, even with 120v it still puts out a max 48v. They are going to update their documentation to include this information.
Great company, can't wait to get it.
Great company, can't wait to get it.
Noobish question re TPA3255-2CH-260W as subwoofer amp
I'm thinking about rehabbing an old Bose (don't laugh!) Acoustimass 600 subwoofer. The thing has a passive network to pull low frequencies from surround sound channels (haven't checked, but I suspect it skips the Center), feeding two double voice coil drivers (each coil 7 ohms). I'm currently driving it with an old receiver, feeding two supposed 100W channels into two of its inputs, and it actually sounds OK. But I'd rather have a cleaner setup and I need a project.
Wiring the four coils in parallel will give under 2 ohms. I am thinking of wiring each driver's two coils in parallel (3.5 ohms/driver) and then powering with a 2-channel Class D amp.
Question 1: Is this a sensible approach?
Question 2: If using the e-audio TPA3255-2CH-260W, what's the simplest way to provide gain control? I don't need to go to zero. I just need to be in the range that my receiver (Denon AVR-X2500H) can deal with.
Optional Question 3: Or do I throw out the Acoustimass and work on something with more potential?
Thanks!
I'm thinking about rehabbing an old Bose (don't laugh!) Acoustimass 600 subwoofer. The thing has a passive network to pull low frequencies from surround sound channels (haven't checked, but I suspect it skips the Center), feeding two double voice coil drivers (each coil 7 ohms). I'm currently driving it with an old receiver, feeding two supposed 100W channels into two of its inputs, and it actually sounds OK. But I'd rather have a cleaner setup and I need a project.
Wiring the four coils in parallel will give under 2 ohms. I am thinking of wiring each driver's two coils in parallel (3.5 ohms/driver) and then powering with a 2-channel Class D amp.
Question 1: Is this a sensible approach?
Question 2: If using the e-audio TPA3255-2CH-260W, what's the simplest way to provide gain control? I don't need to go to zero. I just need to be in the range that my receiver (Denon AVR-X2500H) can deal with.
Optional Question 3: Or do I throw out the Acoustimass and work on something with more potential?
Thanks!
I would go for number three. And that's because I know the subwoofer you use. It does play bass sounds, but not very articulate or precise. You should be able to find very second hand woofers for a project, or maybe som old speakers and just reuse the woofers. If you don't mind making the boxes as well the fun increases, but it might take a little longer. I don't think a new amp will improve your current subwoofer
You could take out the two woofers and make a new box. It will take some trial and error since Thiele small parameters is not known. Wire the two coils in parallel and then the two woofers in series, or just make two separate boxes. Skip the internal cross over and just use the Denon for that. But, you might need to create a separate thread for such a project
Sorry if I'm asking a dumb question, but I'm looking for a decent quality TPA32XX board.
I keep reading about XRK and 360 customs, but neither (currently) sell finished boards.
I could really use your advice on where to buy a decent quality *finished* board, or a finished board that could be made decent with relatively simple modding for someone with basic soldering skills (as in, through-hole parts replacing - not SMD)..
I keep reading about XRK and 360 customs, but neither (currently) sell finished boards.
I could really use your advice on where to buy a decent quality *finished* board, or a finished board that could be made decent with relatively simple modding for someone with basic soldering skills (as in, through-hole parts replacing - not SMD)..
One option is the newer 3e-audio-TPA3255 2ch 260W board that’s has the replaceable op-amps. It may or may not be the best sounding one but it’s relatively inexpensive. There are several other which I’m sure will be named shortly
Cheers,
Pete
Cheers,
Pete
Hey guys! I am not very experienced when it comes to pbtl/btl and balanced audio signals, but I got myself an Aiyima 4 channel tpa3255 amplifier as in the picture.
I have an active crossover (behringer cx 2310), and I would like to use the amplifier as 2.1. Is it possible to use that amplifier in pbtl mode, having two channels driving one unit from one balanced audio signal? How would I wire this? Just parallel the inputs? And put the amplifier in Diff mode? 🙂
Thank you in advance!
I have an active crossover (behringer cx 2310), and I would like to use the amplifier as 2.1. Is it possible to use that amplifier in pbtl mode, having two channels driving one unit from one balanced audio signal? How would I wire this? Just parallel the inputs? And put the amplifier in Diff mode? 🙂
Thank you in advance!
Hello SpiXe
Does the amp hase some designation on the board ?
Some amps has solder jumper and so for it.
Can you make pictures without the heatsink ?
Does it works good?
He is really cheap.
I was thinking of doing the same as you. But
First I got two 3e tpa3255 board instead.
Does the amp hase some designation on the board ?
Some amps has solder jumper and so for it.
Can you make pictures without the heatsink ?
Does it works good?
He is really cheap.
I was thinking of doing the same as you. But
First I got two 3e tpa3255 board instead.