TPA3255 - all about DIY, Discussion, Design etc

Thanks for responding to my post!

My speakers are not very sensitive (83-84 dB). I'd really like to include a manual volume control if at all possible. My thinking was to wire in that pot into the amplifiers input.

I'm open to just building an active sub later if it makes more sense.

For now I want to focus on getting the most out of the tpa3255 with whatever upgrades are recommended.

If you need a 2.1, - the cheaper option is. 50.0 US dollars.
If you have speakers with a sensitivity greater than 90 dB, then you do not need a 48 volt power supply. LRS 200-36 is enough.
If your sound card has a balanced output, then there is no need to change the microcircuit. Better to get around it. In other words, remove and connect the signal directly to the capacitors at the amplifier's input.
If you have the ability to adjust the volume with the sound card itself, then you don't need an additional volume control.
If you have acoustics with passive filters (without a separate subwoofer), then it is better to buy an amplifier with PBTL. But it is expensive and ineffective in terms of price / quality ratio.
 
Hello Germany !!!
I'm not complaining... :)
For many years (almost ten) I just read the forum. Tired of reading a lie. I decided that I would respond to unfounded data.

Hi Polevka,

just my two cents: the day I'm tired of reading "lies", I'd will not decide to answer them all, but will just stop being interested in "Hi-Fi"... If you are actually mastering all this, you know that just a little carefully designed system is far enough to produce good quality music so that you would ever be able to tell the difference (especially with hearing limited to 14kHz, which I'm not sure I still have BTW...):)

Regards
Kal
 
Hi Polevka,

just my two cents: the day I'm tired of reading "lies", I'd will not decide to answer them all, but will just stop being interested in "Hi-Fi"... If you are actually mastering all this, you know that just a little carefully designed system is far enough to produce good quality music so that you would ever be able to tell the difference (especially with hearing limited to 14kHz, which I'm not sure I still have BTW...)

Regards
Kal

+++++++ :):):):):):):):)
 
Evening has not come yet ??? :)

100RMS / 8R
93DB
"Filtrage en l'air" = 6-12DB
Cut freq. : 600-3500HZ
Freq. resp. : 36-23000HZ
Tweeter : Fountek NEOX1
Bass Medium : Triangle T16PE82C
Bass : Audax HM-170-G8
Filters : Mundorf L70 / L100 / SCP MKP / JMR
Front + Back events

Volume / charge :
Triangle : 20 L
Audax : 45 L

Cables Bass-medium : 2.5mm afc Tweeter : 1.5mm afc
Weight : about 25KG / Speaker
Handmade in France + Cabinetmaking France.
 
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Woofer brand and name ??? Frequency response can lay out your speakers?
When can I wait for you to start correctly inserting images into your posts ???
Например так... Do-it-yourself speakers too ... :)

My plants .... fall on the floor on my speakers ...
The environment is hardly better than Dani's carpet !!!

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D Be cool!
 
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100RMS / 8R
93DB
It's not even funny ...
Audax HM-170-G8 has a power of only 60 watts (IES). Sensitivity less than 90dB.
Relatively high resonance frequency - 41 Hertz.
The power is specified in the IES standard, which is almost three times higher than the usual power (nominal) in the DIN Power standard, not musical, but nominal.
Therefore, the real power of your speakers is about 20 - 25 watts (DIN Power). With a coil diameter of only 30 mm, it is simply unrealistic to achieve more power.
This is where your 100 watt RMS is concerned.
Further. Your midrange drivers can operate efficiently from 350 Hz. up to about 3500. Next, there will be a narrow radiation pattern. The choice of midrange is not optimal.
You fantasized too much about your speakers ... :)
The real sensitivity of the speaker will be even lower, because the passive filter will take a little more ... :)
 
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I like my speakers and I listen at a reasonable volume my friend) I do not know where you read that I was fantasizing about my speakers) they suit me well. You have easy criticism but I wonder the added value of your proposals?
however I think yours seem disproportionate to the size of your room) A bit like your ego
 
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I like my speakers and I listen at a reasonable volume my friend) I do not know where you read that I was fantasizing about my speakers) they suit me well. You have easy criticism but I wonder the added value of your proposals?
If you like it, then listen.
Just don't need to write 100RMS every time, my super floor speakers. This is not true.
 
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I use a traditional style linear psu with active rectification (Prasi’s LT4320 Ideal bridge) to power my XRK TPA3255 amplifier and do not have any complaints, the combination sounds wonderful. Not an ignorant thought at all, it’s just another road to the final destination. ;)
 

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Excuse my ignorance. I'm new and trying to learn. Am I correct in thinking that using a toroidal transformer with an unregulated ps would be the preferred way of powering my 3e board vs using a SMPS?

I tried both with my 3E Audio, I shared pictures some pages back.
the question you should ask yourself: will I fit my module in a compact case or not? If yes, avoid the Linear PSU (toroidal)
I could not notice a difference between a Linear PSU vs a SMPS.
 
Hi, this is my first post and I am a newbie on diy audio. Sorry if this is not the right place to ask. I want to use tpa3255 amp for a off the grid sound system.
I planned to use a 13s lithium battery ( 48v nominal) 54.6V fully charge as power supply. Is it safe to run this amp at that voltaje? I read is some thread don't remember where that there were problems even at 48V.

I planned to use this battery because it is very easy to find from electric bikes.