TPA3118, TP2020, TA2024. Which 24VDC Class D amp of today has outclassed these chip amps of yesteryear?

I have one of the 3118 amps in a Lepai 2020A+ (Parts Express) EDIT: No... that amp uses a Tripath TA2020. The 2020TI model (I have both) uses the TPA3118. Regardless, I've used this chip amp quite a lot over the past 4 to 5 years. I like it. It sounds decent and has output protection for my speakers in case an output goes to rail voltage.

But I don't think they even make those chips anymore and I'd bet Class D has improved even a bit more since these were release.

What's the latest trend in Class D 24 volt powered these days?
 
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Not 24V but MA5332MS is nice (and discontinued). SMSL AO200 Mk II has it, very good and affordable amplifier. I have one that came for short visit but it unexpectedly eventually replaced all the stuff I used to use. Internal PSU is a big bonus.
 
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Not 24V but MA5332MS is nice (and discontinued). SMSL AO200 Mk II has it, very good and affordable amplifier. I have one that came for short visit but it unexpectedly eventually replaced all the stuff I used to use. Internal PSU is a big bonus.

Status for MA5332MS is "active and preferred", but 35 Volt minium I see now
https://www.infineon.com/cms/en/pro...er-ic/integrated-class-d-audio-amplifier-ics/

https://www.infineon.com/cms/en/product/evaluation-boards/ref_ma5332btlsps/
 
I like 24V because it's easy to come by and can put out 50W. Also it beats having dual rails. There are cases where 50W is nothing (i.e. big or multi-driver subs and large spaces), and of course in those cases, 24V single rail is not going to be near enough.

EDIT: perhaps with the multi driver sub scenario, 50W on each sub could make for some good air movement. But of course at that point, there would need to be many 24V supplies or a small number of them with unusually high current each. To me, a 24V 6A supply, makes good sense. I don't like the idea of ultra high current on 24V supplies.
 
The TPA3116D2 is a fine amp, very reliable, good sound. There are some low cost boards around which are quite good.
Take off the heat sink and count the number of legs, so you can be sure you got a real one. The Chinese junk amp chip has less legs than the TI part.
With 24 Volt you get quite some power, in PBTL mode it can even drive 2 Ohm with up to 120 Watt at 1% distortion.
 
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If the power supply is separate from the amp, single 24V is convenient.
If a power supply (single or dual rail) is separated from the amplifier then it will not work in either case. "Convenient": I think it is a decision based on emotion not technical grounds.

Ask yourself what you would do if you separate the PSU from the amplifier or your reliable grid is down. Where do you find 24V? Solar? Two car batteries in series? You will be busy arranging the convenient 2 x 55 Ah car batteries and thinking how to charge them with solar. You are also thinking how to connect the 110V AC sources but you will manage one way or another.... and then the grid is already up.

Then ask yourself what you possibly are missing by deciding by emotion to only have 24V amplifiers/amplifiers with separate PSUs. There is nothing convenient with separate power supplies. Contact resistance, DC jack connectors of the cheapest kind, whining, mains voltage polluting, 24/7 unattended power on, excess cabling, dust nests...

Of course I had the same thinking pattern but boy am I glad to have one now with internal PSU (way better than most external bricks) and real power on/off switch. And a pile of 24V SMPS and DIY 24V linear ones.
 
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Ever since I saw the smoking lithium battery mountains in Shanghai, China I decided batteries are not a cure but a disease.

But have fun adapting all the devices to batteries. Electronic prepping 🙂 When the **** hits the fan audio is the least of your troubles.
Agree. Although good tunes will help you forget the fact you are consuming red beans and rice vs. a juicy T-bone.