tants can be 200uF too, I don't know, post said 1uF, datasheet suggests 10uF for full extension and 36dB setting.
I don't think they're 10uF but rather 1uF also, it looks more like a MLCC than a tantalum. Tantalums aren't shape like that usually and when they're that cheap it most likely is a MLCC which are crap. I think in the same footprint you can fit a wima mkp cap
if case is marked for positive polarity ...it is tantalum, if not marked then probably ceramic
It's ceramic for sure. You may fit in 1uF Wima MKS, even 470nF is fine when you're at 20 or 26dB gain due to increased input impedance. Having f-3dB at ("high") 10-15Hz, I wouldn't call this an issues, unless your speakers truly can reproduce in the <30Hz range.
I lost my 1uF decoupling capacitor after bridging my TPA3116. I only have sone 2.2uF capacitor would they be good for making stereo again with same amp?
I'm thinking of reusing my FX-Audio XL-2.1BL as subwoofer amplifier after I biamp my main speakers.
Can I run the amp without the main speaker leads?
Can I run the amp without the main speaker leads?
I'm sorry to hijack your query - I can't answer your question but I've been ogling this particular amp for a while now, but hesitant to buy in case it's a lemon. Is it any good? For reference, I have the SANWU 2.0 and 2.1 boards and am very pleased with them.
I have the first revision (yellow pcb) and I replaced the resistors with 18K resistors and found that... the main speakers cutoff at 60Hz or so all this while 😕
Anyway I can crank up the bass with much less mid bass bloat now. It sounds really deep now 😀
So today I receive my TPA3116 board. First impression is good. But heatsink are only glued with some superglue :-/ Black capacitor are Railcaps 1mF.
I took some pictures. I will test board today and compare to the others.I also ordred the red 2.1 version with two TPA3116 and this board work really good. Bass has a very high gain.
I took some pictures. I will test board today and compare to the others.I also ordred the red 2.1 version with two TPA3116 and this board work really good. Bass has a very high gain.
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1mF or 1uF? 1mF (1000uF) is ENORMOUS for this size lol
these ones usually come with heatsinks that are tacked on with thermal glue, very shoddy construction
these ones usually come with heatsinks that are tacked on with thermal glue, very shoddy construction
Probably you mean microFarad or µF. mF is milliFarad.
A somewhat lower voltage and current limiting are good things when powering a new board. Secondly we all know by now that powering these amplifiers without load is a very bad idea. On the picture one channel has no load.
A somewhat lower voltage and current limiting are good things when powering a new board. Secondly we all know by now that powering these amplifiers without load is a very bad idea. On the picture one channel has no load.
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For powering it from a low power supply is a good idea I took my 21V batterypack with 100A overcurrent protection.
At the first test both channel were used. But after the amp is not working and only the left box going in and out to the maximum I unplug the broken channel. But amp blow up at same time... I was looking at the 2nd powering if the other channel is working but no noise :-(
I down't want to blow my Canton Vento 820.2... The cost much much more than the amp^^
At the first test both channel were used. But after the amp is not working and only the left box going in and out to the maximum I unplug the broken channel. But amp blow up at same time... I was looking at the 2nd powering if the other channel is working but no noise :-(
I down't want to blow my Canton Vento 820.2... The cost much much more than the amp^^
Never disconnect the load with the amplifier being powered...it might blow up. Never mind, you learnt that now. You make a few mistakes here and there. 21V with 100A current limiting is almost the same as no limiting/protection in this case 🙂
Best tip: never use your good/best speakers for testing. 2 x 8,2 or 10 Ohm resistors will cost less and are less of a risk certainly when one is unsure or unexperienced. When stuff is unknown or in test phase the resistors (make those wirewounds of a few Watt) will do for testing. After testing and checking and you are sure things are 100% OK then you might try speakers. Using a pair of cheapos in between is not a bad idea.
Best tip: never use your good/best speakers for testing. 2 x 8,2 or 10 Ohm resistors will cost less and are less of a risk certainly when one is unsure or unexperienced. When stuff is unknown or in test phase the resistors (make those wirewounds of a few Watt) will do for testing. After testing and checking and you are sure things are 100% OK then you might try speakers. Using a pair of cheapos in between is not a bad idea.
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I dont unplug the speaker during powering the amp. I powerd the amp. Amp make some bad current to speaker and blowed up with somke. I turn of make some pictures and go back to my speaker for testing the other channel with no succes. He gets not warm or so. But board does not work....
Yet I am smelling like this bad smoke^^
AMP came today a 11h and less than 1h later he is broken :-( Bad Karma
Yet I am smelling like this bad smoke^^
AMP came today a 11h and less than 1h later he is broken :-( Bad Karma