Short answer: I'm not sure. Take a look at the tpa3110d2 datasheet. Table 1 on page 17 talks about the different gain settings. Pins 5 and 6 are GAIN0 and GAIN1. Manipulate them to set the gain. I would try using a DMM to see if I can figure out what is done with those pins to determine the gain on the Sure board.
Not sure about that. I never modded the output filter on mine. I do recall those inductors being quite small, so it would be fairly delicate work to move them around.
Another option you might want to consider: Sure also sells a PBTL (mono) version of the smaller/cheaper 8-watt tpa3110 board. One of the differences is that the smaller board doesn't have any output filter. The tpa311x datasheets say that in low-power applications with short runs of speaker wire, you can get away with only ferrite beads over the cables.
The whole point of the output filter (or ferrite beads) is to remove the high-frequency switching noise introduced by the amp itself. The switching noise is well beyond the threshold of human hearing... but you're polluting your area with EMI noise.
I'd go with the OS-CON caps; that's what I did for my Sure tpa3110. I felt they made a noticeable improvement. The caps cost more than the board itself!
I never made any other mods to my Sure tpa3110. In general, some tpa311x boards come stock with the bootstrap snubber; not sure if that's the case for the Sure tpa3110 boards or not. Ferrites are only needed if you don't have the LC output filter.
Seems to be a matter of personal preference. I've found the Connex Electronic SMPSes to be my favorite (in particular the SMPS300RS for tpa311x amps). But those are definitely above $50.
Astron makes beefy linear regulated power supplies designed for HAM radios, and have a dedicated following around here. Something like the RS-12A or SL-11A would be suitable, and can often be found pretty cheap on eBay or Craigslist.
Another highly recommended linear regulated DIY option is the Sigma11. Though this will likely cost over $50 in parts.
Others swear by the good old 12V SLA batteries.
I used a 15V Meanwell power brick with my Sure tpa3110 for what it's worth. I never tried the fancier/more expensive PSUs with the tpa3110; I only used those for the tpa3116 and tpa3118.
I think my response is more akin to "hints" rather than meaningful answers, but hopefully they have some value to you!
The tpa3110 will always have a special place in my heart, as it really got me into diyAudio. It was actually this AudioCircle thread that got me started, which lead me to this diyAudio thread, and the rest is history. I had until that point only lightly dabbled in DIY. I too had a Tripath amp, and based on the AC thread where people raved about the Sure tpa3110 $10 amp, I had to try it. I noticed an immediate improvement! In hindsight, at the time I didn't know anything about level matching and other controls that are important for A/B testing... so by definition it was an invalid test. But it was fun and cheap and I was hooked!
3110/15w is set at 26dB(needs 589mV for full output (16Vpsu)), to lower it to 20dB you need to check datasheet and check board connections, with the filterless sure3110 it is just the removal of one resistor to lower it to 20dB
Filter looks like 8ohm but you can measure the output to gnd to see what capacitance is accompanying the 33uH inductors. For the filterless 3110 replacing the inputcapacitors is needed to have some bass extension, even at 20dB, inputcapacitors measure 154nF on small sure3110, but you'll need to measure them on the filterversion you have
Filter looks like 8ohm but you can measure the output to gnd to see what capacitance is accompanying the 33uH inductors. For the filterless 3110 replacing the inputcapacitors is needed to have some bass extension, even at 20dB, inputcapacitors measure 154nF on small sure3110, but you'll need to measure them on the filterversion you have
Matt_Garman,
Any updates on your pop/crackle issue? I want to add that I get ungodly crackles if I turn off my tpa3116 dual chip by pulling the IEC plug. This is not an issue when using a switch to power off.
Trashcan Man! 😀 Actually my name is more from gaming from FPSs and NBA 2k series where bad players are labeled as trashcans or garbage players. It makes people mad when they get destroyed by a trashcan. Like playing as the Lakers and using Robert Sacre exclusively and score 60+ points with him. Anyways... pretty silly. 😛
Any updates on your pop/crackle issue? I want to add that I get ungodly crackles if I turn off my tpa3116 dual chip by pulling the IEC plug. This is not an issue when using a switch to power off.
Trashcan Man! 😀 Actually my name is more from gaming from FPSs and NBA 2k series where bad players are labeled as trashcans or garbage players. It makes people mad when they get destroyed by a trashcan. Like playing as the Lakers and using Robert Sacre exclusively and score 60+ points with him. Anyways... pretty silly. 😛
How is the switch different than pulling the plug?
Typically when I've implemented switches, I put a SPST on the "hot" mains AC wire; the neutral wire is not switched.
This time around I'm using this Delta 10C2, which is a combined IEC + fuse holder + switch. Looking at the datasheet, both the hot and neutral wires are switched, so I would think switching off in this manner is literally the same as pulling the plug.
Anyway, the problem remains. Though I've noticed it's inconsistent: sometimes it's louder than others, sometimes it's not even there (or at least soft enough to seem like it's not there). Doesn't seem to make a big difference whether or not upstream component (DAC) is powered on. (Though maybe the effect is slightly less pronounced when the DAC is on?)
The hum is still there too. I seemed to have improved it a bit by reworking the chassis grounds. Originally I had one bolt in the chassis, where I combined all of: IEC earth, power transformer shield, signal transformer shields. What I did was use that bolt only for the power transformer shield wire (which I shortened too). I greatly shortened the IEC earth wire and connected it to another chassis bolt. And I unconnected the signal transformer shield wires entirely, since that connection is implicit with the mounting method I used (i.e. bolted directly to chassis). These were all done as what I understand to be general good grounding practices. Again, it seemed to help a little, but the hum is still there.
I intend to do similar re-working, along with general layout improvements, on the DAC side when I have the time. I dunno if that will fix it or not. Otherwise, I don't know what else to try.
Yea like you said, only difference is disconnecting hot side only vs both sides at the same time. I just ended up having the amp on all the time and pray it does not have any component failure.
Are you using AC or DC input voltage for the Soekris dam1021?
Are you using AC or DC input voltage for the Soekris dam1021?
Arcing is likely to be the source of the crackle
The action of a switch is very fast & AC arcing is minimised; pulling the plug is significantly slower in breaking the connection, resulting in a bigger arc
Arcing with DC is worse; a switch designed purely for AC, when used with DC, will have more rapid contact deterioration than if used with AC, as intended
Switches should always be used in lieu of cord/plug pulling 🙂
j.R.c
I reassessed this board and just by very carefully adjusting the on board pots, I could get rid of most of the sizzle but it took me a lot of Fingerspitzengefühl: minute movements with a lot of effect.
By almost closing the on board pots, the sizzle was greatly minimized. I have the feeling that this also decreases the overall amplification, but I'm not certain.
Previously the incoming signal was probably over-amplified, causing distortion as a sizzle sound.
Conclusion: a board with some peculiarities but with fine tuning it's sound is very acceptable.
How does one use the mute function on the Sanwu TPA3118 mono boards?
It must have been mentioned here but i can't seem to find it.
I just got a pair and don't know how to use the two mute pins.
Thanks!
It must have been mentioned here but i can't seem to find it.
I just got a pair and don't know how to use the two mute pins.
Thanks!
You can connect the two pins with a jumpercable.
I connect the two pins with a jumpercable when I put on the amp.
After a few seconds, I disconnect the jumpercable and then I can listen music.
I connect the two pins with a jumpercable when I put on the amp.
After a few seconds, I disconnect the jumpercable and then I can listen music.
I saw the youtube video about improving this specific amp and one issue was the 50K pots (allows a lot of noise to be introduced). This lab experiment showed a significant decrease in the unit's noise floor by replacing the master volume pot with a 10K pot. Perhaps your "almost closing the on board pots" minimized the noise by eliminating any high impedance in the signal path.
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An RC circuit can implement a time delay allow mute to on during the first several hundred milliseconds of power up.
Sellers/makers of good quality boards
@jencelo, @Jerms, @millstonemike and @xrk971
Thanks for your suggestions.
Now we have the start of a list of quality boards with a good sound straight from the box.
Thusfar the boards of the following sellers/makers were mentioned:
@jencelo, @Jerms, @millstonemike and @xrk971
Thanks for your suggestions.
Now we have the start of a list of quality boards with a good sound straight from the box.
Thusfar the boards of the following sellers/makers were mentioned:
- Sure Electronics
- Doctormord
- Gmarsh
- SMAKN
- DUG
- Sanwu 3118 PBTL monoblock
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Noise reduction of the YJ TPA3116 2.1 2*50W+100W Class D amplifier completed board
@jopereira and @millstonemike
Thank you for the suggested modification of reducing the on board master volume pot from 50k to 10k.
Would reduction of the other on board pots further improve the sound quality?
@jopereira and @millstonemike
Thank you for the suggested modification of reducing the on board master volume pot from 50k to 10k.
Would reduction of the other on board pots further improve the sound quality?
The Ybdz (the original Weiner) is also excellent:
Online Shop Free Shipping! 1pc TPA3116 Class D digital amplifier 50W +50 W with Silent Sleep Design|Aliexpress Mobile
mods TPA3116D2
The sound is much better now (almost like one of my tube amps )bass is firm , heights are velvet-likeEven with my low efficient Spendor BC1I get decent outputwith 19 V supply.
The advantage of input transformers is not only soundwise an improvement but pops are complete gone and there is not a trace of hum even without a casing (open frame ).The amp plays even louder than with input caps ( caps dump ½ of the signal to ground in balanced configuration )Stilla prefer the sound of my lightly modded TDA7492 over the TPA3116D2.
I don,t know if the the TDA7492 is a later development of Texas instruments ( and that they have learned from faults in the past ) but it sounds more balanced and dynamics are better than the TPA3116D2
I haven,t changed the filmcaps after the induktors (now22uH). The original value seems to be 1 uF) (small blue filmcaps )What value for the filcaps should I take with 22uH induktors ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I modded the yj version 2 board (TPA3116D2, so called Danzig design ) replaced elco,s with panasonic FM ,snubber mod and replaced bootstrap caps with ceramics and installed 22uH induktors for my 8 ohm speakers .Changed input caps to caps 3.3 uFero mkt,but the amp was still unnaturally sounding compared to other D amps I have ( Tripath SML 2020 , TDA7492 ) Then I decided the use the LL 1540high impedance , high input transformers that I hadon the shelf ; all 4 input caps went out and transformer in . (un- balanced in , balanced out ) The sound is much better now (almost like one of my tube amps )bass is firm , heights are velvet-likeEven with my low efficient Spendor BC1I get decent outputwith 19 V supply.
The advantage of input transformers is not only soundwise an improvement but pops are complete gone and there is not a trace of hum even without a casing (open frame ).The amp plays even louder than with input caps ( caps dump ½ of the signal to ground in balanced configuration )Stilla prefer the sound of my lightly modded TDA7492 over the TPA3116D2.
I don,t know if the the TDA7492 is a later development of Texas instruments ( and that they have learned from faults in the past ) but it sounds more balanced and dynamics are better than the TPA3116D2
I haven,t changed the filmcaps after the induktors (now22uH). The original value seems to be 1 uF) (small blue filmcaps )What value for the filcaps should I take with 22uH induktors ?
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@irribeo
In addition to a list of quality boards, perhaps also a black list should be made with that one on top of the list.
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Unfortunately, I don't have a DMM and wouldn't know how to use one for this purpose even if I did.
Are these the correct caps? 25SEPF330M Panasonic | Mouser
Lundahl LL540 are used worldwide in studio applications (mixing consoles ect )
(I could buy 5 pairs from used mixer console for 10 usd a piece ) I use them also as phase splitter in my tube amps with great results . Maybe there is distortion but than it is in the TPA 3116 , probably not from the Lundahls .
Dynamics are improved also a great deal with the lundahls . I think that besides the snubber mod the LL1540 is the biggest improvent you can make on this (stock not so good sounding) little amp .
(I could buy 5 pairs from used mixer console for 10 usd a piece ) I use them also as phase splitter in my tube amps with great results . Maybe there is distortion but than it is in the TPA 3116 , probably not from the Lundahls .
Dynamics are improved also a great deal with the lundahls . I think that besides the snubber mod the LL1540 is the biggest improvent you can make on this (stock not so good sounding) little amp .