uh, pretty easy, parallel the caps together and place across the power inputs of the board.
tough to see here, https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1637/26157646845_9433e19489_z.jpg
that's the current amp.
Here's an older one with a similar set up:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/14989258944/in/dateposted/
overall view:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/15586339716/in/dateposted/
some people just throw the legs to the cap across the terminals where the power goes into the board, that works too...
But make sure you know what you are doing so you don't get shocked or anything!
tough to see here, https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1637/26157646845_9433e19489_z.jpg
that's the current amp.
Here's an older one with a similar set up:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/14989258944/in/dateposted/
overall view:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/15586339716/in/dateposted/
some people just throw the legs to the cap across the terminals where the power goes into the board, that works too...
But make sure you know what you are doing so you don't get shocked or anything!
well, this rig will soon go out as a gift.
Then I will hook up my wiener from GMarsh and all this nonsense will be over! just flicking dipswitches at that point.
this is hooked up to Pioneer BS22s with the Dennis Murpy improved Xovers and an ancient radio shack 10" passive sub, optimus sws-502, 8ohms impedence, 89db sensitivity.
Been running this for a while, sans the capacitor bank, so either I am crazy or magically it sounds better because I moved it from the old tin candy box into the nicer box with the skull and red leds for eyes...
OTOH, I haven't tweaked anything for a while, and when I finished my desktop rig I tried to mod a couple of other boards and I forgot that I am ham-fisted. tore an inductor pad off one board and damaged an input cap trace on the other.
My solder sucker was not sucking, and I ended up getting a little rough and screwed up two boards.
Oh well, at least they are still $12 from China.
trying to get some practice in before I begin assembling my boominator...
Then I will hook up my wiener from GMarsh and all this nonsense will be over! just flicking dipswitches at that point.
this is hooked up to Pioneer BS22s with the Dennis Murpy improved Xovers and an ancient radio shack 10" passive sub, optimus sws-502, 8ohms impedence, 89db sensitivity.
Been running this for a while, sans the capacitor bank, so either I am crazy or magically it sounds better because I moved it from the old tin candy box into the nicer box with the skull and red leds for eyes...
OTOH, I haven't tweaked anything for a while, and when I finished my desktop rig I tried to mod a couple of other boards and I forgot that I am ham-fisted. tore an inductor pad off one board and damaged an input cap trace on the other.
My solder sucker was not sucking, and I ended up getting a little rough and screwed up two boards.
Oh well, at least they are still $12 from China.
trying to get some practice in before I begin assembling my boominator...
I've added 2 Sanyo WG 1800uf 16v caps close to the input terminals and can report the same. Also with a tweaked YJ BB.
In your last post - is it the wiener without the cap bank ? Or YJ BB in a new enclosure ?
In your last post - is it the wiener without the cap bank ? Or YJ BB in a new enclosure ?
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Hi Carpne,
I'm running @ 13.8v.
I have tried a few 12v supplies with the board but they were not quite to my liking.
I'm running @ 13.8v.
I have tried a few 12v supplies with the board but they were not quite to my liking.
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Hi
I saw on another topic that the SANWU TPA3118 board is recommended. But it's mono and it needs soldering.
So I searched for other boards from SANWU and I found their store here:
https://555dz.world.taobao.com/index.htm?spm=a312a.7728556.w5002-10824005232.2.kGq5Fg
It's all in chinese but it's easy to see what is available.
There are 2 TPA3116 boards, what is the best one in your opinion? (based on layout and composants)
the first one:
https://world.taobao.com/item/526326130961.htm?fromSite=main
the second one:
https://world.taobao.com/item/44785827899.htm?fromSite=main
You can find them on ebay too for ~10$
Thank you!
I saw on another topic that the SANWU TPA3118 board is recommended. But it's mono and it needs soldering.
So I searched for other boards from SANWU and I found their store here:
https://555dz.world.taobao.com/index.htm?spm=a312a.7728556.w5002-10824005232.2.kGq5Fg
It's all in chinese but it's easy to see what is available.
There are 2 TPA3116 boards, what is the best one in your opinion? (based on layout and composants)
the first one:
https://world.taobao.com/item/526326130961.htm?fromSite=main
the second one:
https://world.taobao.com/item/44785827899.htm?fromSite=main
You can find them on ebay too for ~10$
Thank you!
Jesen JT-11P-1 w/DUG-1 continued...
OK, upstream component mess cleaned up! I have confirmed the DAC is not contributing any noise, as there is no hum/buzz/hiss with other amps. So back to my DUG-1 build with Jensen JT-11P-1 input transformers.
Previously I had the transformer leads direct-soldered (to the RCAs and amp board). Assuming I'd be messing with these a lot during debugging, I got a pair of RCAs with screw terminals, and also installed screw terminals on the amp boards. That's the only thing that changed, wiring is like this:
Red = RCA+
Brown = RCA GND
Yellow = Input Signal+
Orange = Input Signal-
White = Chassis ground
Black = Open (not connected to anything)
This is the same wiring scheme as before. I fired it up, just to confirm the hum was still there... and it's not! So I'm thinking (hoping!) all my problems were due to issues at the source. 😱
Only one issue remains: if the there is no input connected, there is a really loud hum. The amp should never be used in this state, but if there's an easy fix, I'd like to do it. Thoughts?
OK, upstream component mess cleaned up! I have confirmed the DAC is not contributing any noise, as there is no hum/buzz/hiss with other amps. So back to my DUG-1 build with Jensen JT-11P-1 input transformers.
Previously I had the transformer leads direct-soldered (to the RCAs and amp board). Assuming I'd be messing with these a lot during debugging, I got a pair of RCAs with screw terminals, and also installed screw terminals on the amp boards. That's the only thing that changed, wiring is like this:
Red = RCA+
Brown = RCA GND
Yellow = Input Signal+
Orange = Input Signal-
White = Chassis ground
Black = Open (not connected to anything)
This is the same wiring scheme as before. I fired it up, just to confirm the hum was still there... and it's not! So I'm thinking (hoping!) all my problems were due to issues at the source. 😱
Only one issue remains: if the there is no input connected, there is a really loud hum. The amp should never be used in this state, but if there's an easy fix, I'd like to do it. Thoughts?
First time post to these forums although I've been lingering for a while.
I needed something better than my Logitech 2.1 and decided to buy some B&W 601.s3 Hifi speakers and one of these little amps to drive it. I opted for the 100w+100w versions with 2 TPA3113 D2 chips on it. It sounds pretty awesome and is very powerful, I never feel the need to turn it up more than 25% and that's plenty loud. Very impressed with the sound quality, there is no hiss or hum, the sound is very clean if a little forward on these speakers. Definitely recommend one of these with some decent speakers for the PC sound system.
For a power supply I'm using a Dell AC Adapter 19.5V, 6.7A which provides ample juice. Also tried another 19v power supply which was 4 amps but the dell power supply had better bass control at loud volumes with bassier tracks.
Decided not to bother upgrading any of the components on the board as it sounds good enough to my ears and I am a bit of an audiophile, my main amplifier is a Audiolab 8000a driving some Kef floor standers.
Several mods in this thread mentions replacing the caps and the coils but I thought of something else. There is a protection diode in series with the power input, not sure how much current this handles but this may cause slight voltage drops when driven hard. I might bypass that.
There are no cases available for these at the moment so I made my own on a laser cutter from perspex, looks neat!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o0nzuvm4x0umvk5/20160404_160332_0.jpg?dl=0
I needed something better than my Logitech 2.1 and decided to buy some B&W 601.s3 Hifi speakers and one of these little amps to drive it. I opted for the 100w+100w versions with 2 TPA3113 D2 chips on it. It sounds pretty awesome and is very powerful, I never feel the need to turn it up more than 25% and that's plenty loud. Very impressed with the sound quality, there is no hiss or hum, the sound is very clean if a little forward on these speakers. Definitely recommend one of these with some decent speakers for the PC sound system.
For a power supply I'm using a Dell AC Adapter 19.5V, 6.7A which provides ample juice. Also tried another 19v power supply which was 4 amps but the dell power supply had better bass control at loud volumes with bassier tracks.
Decided not to bother upgrading any of the components on the board as it sounds good enough to my ears and I am a bit of an audiophile, my main amplifier is a Audiolab 8000a driving some Kef floor standers.
Several mods in this thread mentions replacing the caps and the coils but I thought of something else. There is a protection diode in series with the power input, not sure how much current this handles but this may cause slight voltage drops when driven hard. I might bypass that.
There are no cases available for these at the moment so I made my own on a laser cutter from perspex, looks neat!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o0nzuvm4x0umvk5/20160404_160332_0.jpg?dl=0
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There is a 0.5v drop across the protection diode at any current draw even at idle (semiconductor junction characteristic). You can bypass it to get the full voltage from the PS to the amp. FYI: You will only get 100w+100w driving 2 ohm speakers at 24v. Your getting about 22w rms into 8 ohm speakers with the current PS. You could have gone for a 2.1 and added a sub ... maybe a future project.
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Nice perspex cabinet !
Imo the voltagedrop isn't constant but is dependant on current draw, higher current, higher voltagedrop.
Imo the voltagedrop isn't constant but is dependant on current draw, higher current, higher voltagedrop.
Well we're both correct on the diode. The diode has a fixed 0.5v drop at any current draw. That's a function of the P-N junction. It also has a forward resistance and an additional voltage drop dependent on the current. Typical for a power diode in this class would be ~1.0v (including the fixed 0.5v) at 6 amp draw.
There are other substrates that have different characteristics. For example, Germanium diodes (now rare?) have a fixed .2v drop and silicon fixed 0.7v drop.
Note when using a bridge rectifier, the power passes through 2 diodes resulting in a 1.0v drop at minimal current draw.
If the voltage drop is constant across that protection diode regardless of the current drawn then sounds like I should just leave it alone, however if it varies could that not theoretically affect the bass performance or colour the higher frequencies ? I'm sure I'd not hear a difference anyway.
Yeah I understand I won't get the full 100 watts but I liked the idea of having a separate chip for each channel, also thought that since the current output is doubled it would have better control off the bass and maybe a better damping factor ?
The chip's have lower outputimpedance, the ampboard still could have higher outputimpedance than most single chip ampboards, layout/components.
Your particular amp module is "blessed" with 4 bypass caps for power. They should absorb any current peaks rather well. And your application is not that demanding. So for you, I'd leave the diode alone.
For me, I'm trying to extract every last bit of power out of my 2.1 amp. The ".1" channel in PBTL mode is akin to one of your channels. I'm using a 4 ohm sub so I'm not taxing the PBTL output with low impedance. I'm running off batteries that provide ~25v (+ depending on remaining charge) so I'm getting 78w into 4 ohms. The chip is good to that voltage, it can dissipate 100w between the two channels and the distortion specs are about 1% at that wattage.
The diode is just wasting a couple watts of battery power. So for me, I'd bypass the diode to gain the extra voltage and efficiency. After all, the diode is only present for reverse polarity protection on the PS input.
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I believe no matter what voltage or mode maximum continuous output power into 4 ohm resistor is about 56 watt for TI 3116 EVM. Maybe with forced cooling you can get a little higher ?
hi
has anyone got experience,views or opinions on this
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Digital Power Amplifier Board Mono 100W for Car Motorcycle | eBay
ive been using and modding the 3118 pbtl monoblocks,but these look like they could be a better deal because they have through hole mounting points.
also i know that the 3118 and 3116 chip are ment to be the same other then there cooling arrangement,but has anyone compared the two regarding sound quality?
all the best smithie
has anyone got experience,views or opinions on this
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Digital Power Amplifier Board Mono 100W for Car Motorcycle | eBay
ive been using and modding the 3118 pbtl monoblocks,but these look like they could be a better deal because they have through hole mounting points.
also i know that the 3118 and 3116 chip are ment to be the same other then there cooling arrangement,but has anyone compared the two regarding sound quality?
all the best smithie
i find the 3118 mono blocks lack punch,dynamics and the upper bass on them seems to me to have a warmth/bloated feel to it(that could be masking the the punch and dynamics....of course this is all to "to my ears and taste" and "system". so yeah i guess how futile that question was to ask😀
never experienced that with the various cheap as chips 3116 amps ive had,of course im not comparing like for like as the monoblocks are...monoblocks😀,plus there using single ended input....so lots of variables with just those to facts,and also the reason i was looking at the 3116 monoblocks in the ebay link,thinking this would bring the situation closer together to compare the chips🙂
never experienced that with the various cheap as chips 3116 amps ive had,of course im not comparing like for like as the monoblocks are...monoblocks😀,plus there using single ended input....so lots of variables with just those to facts,and also the reason i was looking at the 3116 monoblocks in the ebay link,thinking this would bring the situation closer together to compare the chips🙂