Thanks both for your answers.
Irribeo...yes all boards. Same also with 20v PSU.
XRK...doubt that it's the thermal, since it happens from start, when the amp is still cold. So current overload shutdown...yes the new box is tunned lower...didn't know that tuning can affect amp 🙂. Will try with differnet BR tube and higher tuning.
Just a question...so bigger cappacitors wouldn't help with overload...and why not?
No o-scope in the house 🙂...any other way to measure peaks?
Irribeo...yes all boards. Same also with 20v PSU.
XRK...doubt that it's the thermal, since it happens from start, when the amp is still cold. So current overload shutdown...yes the new box is tunned lower...didn't know that tuning can affect amp 🙂. Will try with differnet BR tube and higher tuning.
Just a question...so bigger cappacitors wouldn't help with overload...and why not?
No o-scope in the house 🙂...any other way to measure peaks?
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And both LR and Sub tpachips go into protection mute at exact same moment ???? And new ampboard doesn't put out more power/signal ?
Load is different because on ampboard outputfilters are different too (+one even seems to include preinductorsnubbers that also affect load) New board has two small package diodedrops, old has one voltagedrop from probably another type of diode ? Pinvoltage might differ.
Yes 220uF might affect switch off, so might dozen other things.
Load is different because on ampboard outputfilters are different too (+one even seems to include preinductorsnubbers that also affect load) New board has two small package diodedrops, old has one voltagedrop from probably another type of diode ? Pinvoltage might differ.
Yes 220uF might affect switch off, so might dozen other things.
no....only L+R stops for a sec when bass hits.
So should I try bigger cap where 220uf is?
Are these chips synced? Maybe the bass amp is loosing clock-signal due to HF-Noise + groundbounce when playing higher bass levels.
If that's true, then I'd look to the power supply. Is it guaranteed to meet spec? I've pushed 26v through a similar TPA3116 2.1 board at max volume for hours w/o issue. However, on some tracks at a frequency where the woofer draws maximum amps, the SMPS shuts down then comes back as it can;t handle the amp draw.
I think I read about Giancarlo mod against power on POP having same effect sometimes, muting when at higher power levels. Is there antipop on these boards ??
But maybe gain is just set higher LR amp than on older ampboard, turning volume now might give more power but might also just add more volts at input that can't be amplified, just added distortion, or opamps set differently or more HF noise on inputsignal or or or.
If you post pic of both boards without heatsinks and potmeter side of chips at good size and focus 🙂 maybe something can be seen, also about LR being master or slave...
But maybe gain is just set higher LR amp than on older ampboard, turning volume now might give more power but might also just add more volts at input that can't be amplified, just added distortion, or opamps set differently or more HF noise on inputsignal or or or.
If you post pic of both boards without heatsinks and potmeter side of chips at good size and focus 🙂 maybe something can be seen, also about LR being master or slave...
tested with 20v 4,5a, 24v 6a and 24v 8a ...and as said only L+R goes to mute for a sec. Just tested it with disconected 8ohm midbass, so sub chanel is runing only 4ohm subwoofer and same problem...but only on max power with havy bass. And as I said...the previous version of this board worked perfect (with 4ohm sub+8ohm midbass in parallel on sub chanel)...tested for 100+ hours on max power.
yes anti pop is on the board. Doubt that gain is any different...older amp is same or even louder than this one. Amp stays quite stable...very little distortion at max.
Here are few more pics of new board (I am not sure if I know how to remove heatsink)...will add pics from older board tommorow (need to remove it from the speaker).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ieoh1wnk25ygkp/20160330_223644.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mh6y3pjcc8otjj2/20160330_223657.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/93mu1867radnjsn/20160330_223710.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oxt0ki0j8o5alxa/20160330_223725.jpg?dl=0
Angle is a little twisty 🙂 but seems 39k and 100k for gain from which 39k is to gvdd, so 32dB slave for bass, amp that shuts down seems master amp...?? But I am notoriously confusing the two gainresistors 🙂 and can't really see what connects to what. Can't distinguish anything on LR side.
The muting at higher levels caused by anti pop was discussed in this thread or in Dugs groupbuy thread, and I didn't really follow or really tried to understand why. Dug or Doctormord know how these things work, I don't.
The muting at higher levels caused by anti pop was discussed in this thread or in Dugs groupbuy thread, and I didn't really follow or really tried to understand why. Dug or Doctormord know how these things work, I don't.
If you can, get the heatsinks off and take a photo looking straight down at the board. Preferably both of the boards so we can see any differences aside from capacitor changes.
I recently bought this amp and hooked up the Tang Band W5-1138SMF subwoofer to it and there was music coming out of it... anyone know how I can only get bass out of this??
what 3" speakers would be go best with this Tang Band W5-1138SMF? The amp itself seems to be too powerful for this subwoofer for at high volume it sounds farty...
really appriciate your help...
here are the photos...new one has 2x 3300uf+220uf caps and is a little larger...old one has 3x2700 caps and is a little smaller.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5g0ya7nusny5gi0/20160331_092856.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wxaazxgo7fqyadq/2016-03-31 09.30.12.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2zic2l1eya8m5ek/20160331_092944.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mza6k1fg06fr8y9/20160331_092934.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/auqbjrt4jqe4cii/20160331_092914.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pb49g6i4mtiemn6/20160331_092924.jpg?dl=0
hope this photos are helpfull
here are the photos...new one has 2x 3300uf+220uf caps and is a little larger...old one has 3x2700 caps and is a little smaller.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5g0ya7nusny5gi0/20160331_092856.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wxaazxgo7fqyadq/2016-03-31 09.30.12.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2zic2l1eya8m5ek/20160331_092944.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mza6k1fg06fr8y9/20160331_092934.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/auqbjrt4jqe4cii/20160331_092914.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pb49g6i4mtiemn6/20160331_092924.jpg?dl=0
hope this photos are helpfull
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The circuit I use would go to mute if the supply recovered (positive going) from a drop of a few volts. (Probably >2.5)
In theory you would hear the first 1/4 cycle of the bass note (or heavy load) and then as the power supply recovered the mute would be activated.
Never drove mine loud enough for this. (or my supply/caps were sufficient to handle the loads)
To test this theory, ground the mute pin hard after power-up and test.
Attachments
What are the specifics of the enclosure you used for the W5? Internal volume? Sealed or vented? Port size and length?
These 2.1 boards are a big disappointment, the controls are somehow ganged so bass only is impossible.
I have just received a 2.1 preamp board and a 2092 200w amp board which I will use with a previously purchased stereo board.
The above preamp has a separate sub vol and sub frequency control, see below.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NE55..._9&btsid=83a3c53e-5d8d-4959-b969-0d3184b8af13
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Will have to look again on a bigger screen after work, but right now my only thought is that maybe the small cap in the middle is insufficient as that appears to be the only local decoupling to the power pins located on those ends of the chips.
It is the full range chip cutting out and not the bass amp?
P.S. nice ground bus on the front of those pots 🙂
Yes LR is 32dB master on new one (and old says it is 32dB too) and synch to slave bass probably doesn't work, but they might not care anymore, on old one they noticed it didn't work properly and removed the capacitor 🙂
Pots might be open now, at least there are gaps and holes that weren't there befor they got punished 🙂
To test without mute like Dug suggested there is a solderpad bottomside, but circuit seems different, one can try.
Pots might be open now, at least there are gaps and holes that weren't there befor they got punished 🙂
To test without mute like Dug suggested there is a solderpad bottomside, but circuit seems different, one can try.
tilling old ground here,
but I just added a small capacitor bank to my old stand by YJ/Danzz Black&Blue board on my desktop and there seems to be a significant increase in bass.
Same exact set up as before, but now I can actually tell I have a passive 10" dual voice-coil sub under my desk.
Added 3 panasonic FM series 1000uf 35v caps on the power hook up.
Definitely an easy upgrade and worth it.
I am running at 18.5v laptop power brick with the board modded with following upgrades: 32db gain setting, OSCON power caps, bootstrap snubber mod, ceramic bootstrap cap mod, WIMA MKS 4 4.7 uF input cap mod, and the better inductors.
Of course, this may all be in my head I guess...
but I just added a small capacitor bank to my old stand by YJ/Danzz Black&Blue board on my desktop and there seems to be a significant increase in bass.
Same exact set up as before, but now I can actually tell I have a passive 10" dual voice-coil sub under my desk.
Added 3 panasonic FM series 1000uf 35v caps on the power hook up.
Definitely an easy upgrade and worth it.
I am running at 18.5v laptop power brick with the board modded with following upgrades: 32db gain setting, OSCON power caps, bootstrap snubber mod, ceramic bootstrap cap mod, WIMA MKS 4 4.7 uF input cap mod, and the better inductors.
Of course, this may all be in my head I guess...