TPA3116D2 Amp

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#8,361
The input caps (bigger ones) as well as the decoupling caps are easier to start with as the through holes seem to be more resilient to repeated soldering / desoldering (YJ board). The smaller input cap, bootstrap and gain resistor through holes seem to be more fragile. I use an "ebay version" of the Edsyn Deluxe Soldapullt and it works wonders.
 
#8,362
IanLenco said:
Thanks for the replies but I've already committed to the blue black boards mainly because there's lots of information about modding it and most changes are through holes which my novice skills might just cope with. I was under the impression that the SA60 was a ready built amplifier and I've already got the SA 36a Pro.

Can anybody comment on the suitability of the transformers?
Click to expand...

If you have the SA36 already - the only way the blue black YJ is going to top it is pretty much input transformers and high end Coil Craft inductors. Look for Rhing's blue black rig with all the fixin's - don't forget the $120 Cinemag balanced trafo's. I have personally not used a transformer but have heard from people I trust that they like it and it makes a big difference.

If you are new to modding 3116 - look at the Wiki.

These are my suggestions to start

1. Panasonic OSCON SEPF 330uF 25v main power rail caps
2. Bootstrap snubber mod (330pF and 10R)
3. Polyfilm bootstrap caps
4. Polyfilm input caps
5. Coilcraft high current flat wire inductors
6. Input transformers skip input caps
There was an Edcor trafo for $30. I heard those actually work but not world class like the Cinemags.

If you only bought the blue blacks they are not a lot of money and not too late to build Gmarsh Wiener.

If you want the best amp period that beats $40k commercial amps - build the Parallel Mod86 class AB. That's my dream amp.

There is the new 3152 that Dr Mord and 5thE and others are working on in other thread. I hear that one is quite good too - better than 3116.
 
#8,365
xrk971 said:
If you only bought the blue blacks they are not a lot of money and not too late to build Gmarsh Wiener.

If you want the best amp period that beats $40k commercial amps - build the Parallel Mod86 class AB. That's my dream amp.

There is the new 3152 that Dr Mord and 5thE and others are working on in other thread. I hear that one is quite good too - better than 3116.
Click to expand...

Thanks for info XRK. It seems I have joined the party a bit late only to find folks have moved on!
Nevermind, I'll still have a go at these boards if nothing else but to give me practice in modding. Re the lTPA3152 and Mod86 I can't find any threads about these - do you have links?

Yesterday I connected up one of the HSDZ boards and it worked fine, no pops, clicks or humming so that was a relief. Sounded half decent too. Not as good as the SMSL 36a Pro, it doesn't quite have the latter's smoothness, there's a bit of edginess to female vocals for instance.

wired%20board_zpsh9z6rnjy.jpg


I have another question if you don't mind. I have a passive pre with two outputs. Supposing I do two boards or maybe get another SMSL, would it do any harm to only drive one channel of each amp, treating them as monoblocks? I realise there won't be any more power this way but there might be other benefits in terms of crosstalk.

Cheers, Ian

Edit, I think I've found the DoctorMord thread - "TPA3252D2"
 
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#8,366
You can't or don't leave speakeroutputs open when power is connected, if you want to use only one channel put a load on the other or put tpa in pbtl/mono.
If you listen closer you'll notice other differences between smsl and hdsz I hope, if not you might need to check your smsl first, that is the easy one.
 
#8,371
lutkeveld said:
Populated my PCB today, but can't get it working. It's in 1SPW/PBTL config with a FB output filter. There is no short on either the input or the output, it consumes 2.4mA but gives no output. I'll troubleshoot it further tomorrow when I have time, any suggestions?
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Got it working today 🙂 There was a short in the left channel. 31mA idle consumption on a 12V battery, very nice.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
#8,374
Here are links to mod86

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...mposite-amplifier-achieving-0-0004-thd-n.html

http://www.neurochrome.com/parallel-86/




IanLenco said:
Thanks for info XRK. It seems I have joined the party a bit late only to find folks have moved on!
Nevermind, I'll still have a go at these boards if nothing else but to give me practice in modding. Re the lTPA3152 and Mod86 I can't find any threads about these - do you have links?

Yesterday I connected up one of the HSDZ boards and it worked fine, no pops, clicks or humming so that was a relief. Sounded half decent too. Not as good as the SMSL 36a Pro, it doesn't quite have the latter's smoothness, there's a bit of edginess to female vocals for instance.

wired%20board_zpsh9z6rnjy.jpg


I have another question if you don't mind. I have a passive pre with two outputs. Supposing I do two boards or maybe get another SMSL, would it do any harm to only drive one channel of each amp, treating them as monoblocks? I realise there won't be any more power this way but there might be other benefits in terms of crosstalk.

Cheers, Ian

Edit, I think I've found the DoctorMord thread - "TPA3252D2"
Click to expand...
 
#8,377
Thanks, Polt

Poultrygeist said:
Yes that's it and here's the Nobsound on Amazon,

Amazon.com: Nobsound® NS-01P Tube Preamp Preamplifier 12AX7 ALPS27 Base on Maratz 7 Circuit: Electronics
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OK, thanks my friend. I ordered the dual chip board. That Nobsound preamp looks really sweet! I'll give that hard consideration, but despite some naysayers I really find the two tube 6N3 Guanzo preamp quite nice.

If that Nobsound had three inputs it would be perfect. Seems like no matter what I'm using my cheapie $10 switchbox from Ali Express these days.

Mark
 
#8,378
lutkeveld,

In your cct layout, i'm guessing that the inductors have been replaced by a ferrite bead (if i'm reading the terminology correctly) ?
If so, has the output capacitor been removed as well (just after the inductor, picture in post #8391) ?

Thanks.
 
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