OK, so in this case i leave the negative outputs open and just connect the common negative input to (chassis) ground, right?
Sorry amozonesk, This one might be abit beyond me. I dont quite know where else the noise could be coming from.
thanks for the answers anyway, most likely the subwoofer amp is just faulty, I've already received a refund. I still need a 2.1 amp however, but I'm not quite sure which one to get, because there are too many of them (TPA3116D2 2.1). I've found a wiki page with a few of them, but it doesn't state which is good/bad and so on. Could you give me any advice on which I should choose? From eBay
2.1 tpa3116d2 | eBay
Or should I get the YJ one from YJ site?
2.1 tpa3116d2 | eBay
Or should I get the YJ one from YJ site?
Your YJblue ampboard has single ended inputs like that, YJ only connects the positive inputs tpa3116 chip to inputconnector and connects negative 3116 inputs through (little cubes next to bigger blue cubes) capacitors to gnd. If you want you can do the same with outputs from your balanced preamp and also throw away half signal there, you don't need it for YJblue.
Can you improve that? Yes you can undo the negative input to gnd connection on YJblue ampboard, then you don't have to throw away half of your source/preamp output. Both ways you only use transformers to isolate source from amp, there is a good chance you already have transformers in your source/preamp, so that also seems like trying to double bridge the ampboard. But I don't know, I just think I saw xlr from your source going to transformers.
I wouldn't bother with the 2.1 board as it's been problematic on other forums.
For my sub I split the single outputs from my preamp - one goes to the sub amp and one to the TPA3116. There are other connection options as well.
so I should get one 2.0 TPA3116 for speakers and another for subwoofer? Could you give me an advice on concrete amps, please?
Yes, you are right: my balanced preamp has output transformers. OK, now i got it – the additional Edcors are useless in this case.
Many thanks for the explenation!
Best,
Peter
Hello,
i have 2 TPA3116 Black blue from ebay that i decided du upgarde last weekend,
i changed the inductances, output filter Cap , and added the bootstap snubber,
snubber: 330pF 100V ceramics AVX, and a 1/4-watt 10 ohm thin-film resistor
output filter cap: WIMA FKP2 680pF/100V Film Capacitor
first board is working fine! i run it for 30 minutes without over heat ..
about the second board, after about 10 minutes of usage i started to smell something burning.
it happen that the 4 output EMI snubber resistors where burning, also i noticed that the 2 middle inductances where quite hot.
P1070197 - HostingPics.net - Hébergement d'images gratuit
P1070198 - HostingPics.net - Hébergement d'images gratuit
would it be a problem of bad welding? inductance or other components over heated when installed ?
thanks in advance for your feedback !
i have 2 TPA3116 Black blue from ebay that i decided du upgarde last weekend,
i changed the inductances, output filter Cap , and added the bootstap snubber,
snubber: 330pF 100V ceramics AVX, and a 1/4-watt 10 ohm thin-film resistor
output filter cap: WIMA FKP2 680pF/100V Film Capacitor
first board is working fine! i run it for 30 minutes without over heat ..
about the second board, after about 10 minutes of usage i started to smell something burning.
it happen that the 4 output EMI snubber resistors where burning, also i noticed that the 2 middle inductances where quite hot.
P1070197 - HostingPics.net - Hébergement d'images gratuit
P1070198 - HostingPics.net - Hébergement d'images gratuit
would it be a problem of bad welding? inductance or other components over heated when installed ?
thanks in advance for your feedback !
Wima FKP in 680nF!!!!! are bigger than the big blue Epcos on input, so you really got 680pF instead. Somehow the 10.000pF+~4 ohm part of the outputfilter doesn't like that🙂
??? Also content output well above 500khz was more than 0.5 watt ??? After 10uH inductors ??? HDSZ is quite a radio transmitter then???
??? Also content output well above 500khz was more than 0.5 watt ??? After 10uH inductors ??? HDSZ is quite a radio transmitter then???
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Greetings
We've finished of today with soldering the class d amp pcb. Did a quick test and it worked 😀. I will give some more details later, but here are pictures of the pcb. The layouts of the coils in eagle didn't match the one we ordered, so we had to improvise a bit (they're floating 😛)
We've finished of today with soldering the class d amp pcb. Did a quick test and it worked 😀. I will give some more details later, but here are pictures of the pcb. The layouts of the coils in eagle didn't match the one we ordered, so we had to improvise a bit (they're floating 😛)
Looks nice! How did you connect the thermal pad to the others side? Drilling holes and filling them with solder to act as vias?
Thanks. I'm not sure, my partner did it, but I think he did it by filling up the holes with solder. I drilled 5 holes beneath the thermal pad.
These look less complicated. I suppose, they are mono? And speaker terminals look like they have high freq and low freq connections. I'd like to know how they "sound".
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Ampboard is designed to be used with 1.7 ohm load and higher loads will be used, I am interested if protection is triggered early because of this mismatch.
Yes I'll use them as mono, one channel to the tweeter, the other to the woofer. you can also use it as stereo, but than i'll need to replace the input caps on one channel.
They sound good, didn't test it yet with a proper power supply though, it was a supply that could deliver only 0.6 amps, so when cranked up it wasn't so good anymore.
Did some tests aswell, the SNR was 88dB and the highest 3th harmonic distortion was 0.35% with a sine wave of 5kHz and amplitude of 0.3V. I couldn't higher the amplitude cause of the powersupply.
EDIT: the measurements:
http://i.imgur.com/9In2huU.png
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The ampboards work perfectly with this mod! I kicked out the input capacitors since the balanced signal comes from an output transformer and now even the off-popp is gone.
Today the amps ran the whole day and now i can definitely understand why they are so popular.
Thanks again for the advice!
Another data point:
I bought a WLX (yellow) board-based "Breeze Audio" amp on Amazon. It came with no power supply, so I am using a Ktec-branded 24V/5A unit I received with a Dayton Audio DTA-120. (These good-quality Taiwanese supplies have been replaced by lower-quality Chinese SMPS bricks in newer DTA-120s; I got my Ktec unit in an early batch of DTA-120). I can say that even without mods, this is the best sounding of the Class-D chip amps I have used, followed closely behind by the SMSL SA-36A Pro which I also have and use. I will investigate replacing the input electrolytics (bypassed by 0.1uF WIMAs) with Nichicon Muse ES in the coming weeks.
I only have a couple complaints about this unit. Upon plugging in a live 24VDC supply, there is a bright spark (like from a 4th of july sparkler) from the back of the DC plug, and the DC plug is not really made to take the full 5A of current on a continuous basis; the DTA-120 used a better DC socket and experienced no sparking. Also, the power LED never fully goes off when the unit is switched off. As long as the DC power supply is connected, the light is illuminated dimly. The issues with sparking and the power LED, plus the looks of the enclosure (which manages to be both featureless and ugly at the same time) keep me from recommending this amp to anybody but enterprising hobbyists, but I do regularly recommend the SMSL SA-36A Pro.
I can say that the sound of this unit is better (to me) than the ICEPower 50ASX2 module, which I always found dark and lacking in detail and air. The same can be said of the SMSL SA-36A Pro, although it doesn't provide the same power so it's less of an 'even' comparison. This is not to say that the WLX TPA3116 board is bright, just very well balanced and more 'literal' - without deliberate sweeteners or extra 'warmth' dialed in. Soundstage depth and image specificity are excellent. (I know some will wretch at these subjective terms, but I often want to know what it's like to listen to something, and measurements don't give the complete picture like descriptive terms can.) Also, I removed the top cover and tested the temperature of the heatsink with my finger; even with some pretty bass-heavy music, the heatsink was only ever just barely perceptibly warm. So the efficiency and thermal management in this amp are both excellent. It always amazes me what's possible from such a tiny device, and photos online don't ever really do justice to how small the chips truly are. For what it matters, my desktop speakers are Def Tech StudioMonitor 350s, and I used them for this review.
The current crop of chips from TI are showing that at least for low- to mid-power amps, the chips will inevitably overtake the discrete 50wpc modules from ICEPower and Anaview. Also, the cost of quality power for speakers will come down dramatically in the near future - for those willing to experiment with Chi-Fi and find the best performers of the bunch, it already has.
I bought a WLX (yellow) board-based "Breeze Audio" amp on Amazon. It came with no power supply, so I am using a Ktec-branded 24V/5A unit I received with a Dayton Audio DTA-120. (These good-quality Taiwanese supplies have been replaced by lower-quality Chinese SMPS bricks in newer DTA-120s; I got my Ktec unit in an early batch of DTA-120). I can say that even without mods, this is the best sounding of the Class-D chip amps I have used, followed closely behind by the SMSL SA-36A Pro which I also have and use. I will investigate replacing the input electrolytics (bypassed by 0.1uF WIMAs) with Nichicon Muse ES in the coming weeks.
I only have a couple complaints about this unit. Upon plugging in a live 24VDC supply, there is a bright spark (like from a 4th of july sparkler) from the back of the DC plug, and the DC plug is not really made to take the full 5A of current on a continuous basis; the DTA-120 used a better DC socket and experienced no sparking. Also, the power LED never fully goes off when the unit is switched off. As long as the DC power supply is connected, the light is illuminated dimly. The issues with sparking and the power LED, plus the looks of the enclosure (which manages to be both featureless and ugly at the same time) keep me from recommending this amp to anybody but enterprising hobbyists, but I do regularly recommend the SMSL SA-36A Pro.
I can say that the sound of this unit is better (to me) than the ICEPower 50ASX2 module, which I always found dark and lacking in detail and air. The same can be said of the SMSL SA-36A Pro, although it doesn't provide the same power so it's less of an 'even' comparison. This is not to say that the WLX TPA3116 board is bright, just very well balanced and more 'literal' - without deliberate sweeteners or extra 'warmth' dialed in. Soundstage depth and image specificity are excellent. (I know some will wretch at these subjective terms, but I often want to know what it's like to listen to something, and measurements don't give the complete picture like descriptive terms can.) Also, I removed the top cover and tested the temperature of the heatsink with my finger; even with some pretty bass-heavy music, the heatsink was only ever just barely perceptibly warm. So the efficiency and thermal management in this amp are both excellent. It always amazes me what's possible from such a tiny device, and photos online don't ever really do justice to how small the chips truly are. For what it matters, my desktop speakers are Def Tech StudioMonitor 350s, and I used them for this review.
The current crop of chips from TI are showing that at least for low- to mid-power amps, the chips will inevitably overtake the discrete 50wpc modules from ICEPower and Anaview. Also, the cost of quality power for speakers will come down dramatically in the near future - for those willing to experiment with Chi-Fi and find the best performers of the bunch, it already has.
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Sparking will always occur with uncharged caps when plugged in live no matter what connector is used. (An NTC with additional heater might help)
After waiting a lot, finally received my TPA3116D2 dual Chip 100 + 100W Class-D amp kits. For power I am using two old 400Watts Delta PSU in series, each giving 12v at 25A for total of 24v at 25A. Without any mods this amp sounds real good with ASUS Xonar DX as audio source
