There was a YJ board earlier in thread that ran very hot but sounded ok to poster, gainsetting resistors were odd combination. Like there might be different AM settings than just switchingfrequency for test purposes, there also might be gain/master/slave resistor combinations for test purposes ????
battery power for TPA3116D2?
I searched the forums but couldn't find a clear answer to this.
What would be the best battery pack for powering the TPA3116D2?
I currently use a 24v meanwell switching supply to power a pair of YBDZ amps and a miniDSP. If I would want to get 24v from NiMH I would need maybe 20 NiMH cells (1.2v each). I looked around for RC batteries but they are expensive and maybe not much better than just using individual cells in a battery holder.
So basic questions like:
what voltage should I aim for?
Would AA cell pack give a decent run time?
would I need to bother with a voltage regulator?
I am basically wondering if an unregulated 12 cell (14.4v) or 16 cell (19.2v) pack will work well.
I searched the forums but couldn't find a clear answer to this.
What would be the best battery pack for powering the TPA3116D2?
I currently use a 24v meanwell switching supply to power a pair of YBDZ amps and a miniDSP. If I would want to get 24v from NiMH I would need maybe 20 NiMH cells (1.2v each). I looked around for RC batteries but they are expensive and maybe not much better than just using individual cells in a battery holder.
So basic questions like:
what voltage should I aim for?
Would AA cell pack give a decent run time?
would I need to bother with a voltage regulator?
I am basically wondering if an unregulated 12 cell (14.4v) or 16 cell (19.2v) pack will work well.
Hi,
there are many threads about mobile/portable systems.
Most are in Loudspeakers/Fullrange and the keyword is "boombox"
there are many threads about mobile/portable systems.
Most are in Loudspeakers/Fullrange and the keyword is "boombox"
I use SLA batteries.
They do their job pretty well.
One single 12V (more like 13V when charged) will be enough.
I bought three 6V, 7Ah batteries for the TPA3116.
If i were to buy them now, i would go for single 12V battery (maybe a 12Ah or something).
LiPo seems may be good, too, but with sla you are on the safe side (imo).
OK I've made some free time to try the dual chip board. It sound very good (unmoded) for the price but it is in the same league with some other nice Chinese TPA3116D2 boards. I'll try to change later the inductors on the Sure board and on this dual chip in order to achieve some improvements. For my system the DUG PBTL boards are the only ones with that chip that brings "something" to audition.
Try changing the caps on the dual chip board
I am currently building a boominator, and using the red dual chip board.
During testing today i discovered amazing upgrade in sound performance (big improvement in mid/bass clarity and loudness) on the dual chip board by only changing all 4 stock 1000 uF 35v Acon KM capacitors with 4x2200uF 25V 85℃ Panasonic M Electrolytic Low ESR Audio Capacitors.
Keep in mind i am using a 12v 18Ah SLA lead acid battery as power source.
goo
I am currently building a boominator, and using the red dual chip board.
During testing today i discovered amazing upgrade in sound performance (big improvement in mid/bass clarity and loudness) on the dual chip board by only changing all 4 stock 1000 uF 35v Acon KM capacitors with 4x2200uF 25V 85℃ Panasonic M Electrolytic Low ESR Audio Capacitors.
Keep in mind i am using a 12v 18Ah SLA lead acid battery as power source.
goo
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Using an LR filter instead of input decoupling capacitor
I'm planning on designing my first class-d amp board after a few months of modifying.
I keep reading about the importance of capacitor selection on the input of the amplifier and many people mentioning that if a capacitor can be avoided that's even better, so it crossed my mind that you could just pull the dc current to ground with an inductor and have a direct connection to the amplifier, does anyone have any experience with this?
I'm planning on designing my first class-d amp board after a few months of modifying.
I keep reading about the importance of capacitor selection on the input of the amplifier and many people mentioning that if a capacitor can be avoided that's even better, so it crossed my mind that you could just pull the dc current to ground with an inductor and have a direct connection to the amplifier, does anyone have any experience with this?
The input capacitors are to allow the inputs pins of the TPA3116 to sit at about 3VDC for proper operation.
I do not think an inductor to ground will allow that to occur.
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I have used transformers to remove interference from bluetooth boards, like the KRC-86b, I am guessing that they effectively convert a single ended input to a differential input, which is more effective at reducing EMI.
So if I were to design the amp to have differential inputs, I could make due with a single transformer to convert the single ended input to a differential input and not have any capacitors on the input of the amp at all?
So if I were to design the amp to have differential inputs, I could make due with a single transformer to convert the single ended input to a differential input and not have any capacitors on the input of the amp at all?
If you search this thread, a few of us have already done this. I recommend good 1:1 input transformers like CineMags, Lundahls, Sowters or Jensens. The improvements are noticeable.
Ic is differential input so why not.
Yes. (per side)
But put places for caps in case you want to experiment.
I doubt I will continue with transformers due to the cost, I want to produce something that is affordable for my friends... This is some tough work. Will unity gain stable operational amplifiers work with biased differential inputs? I understand that an integrated preamp can increase the sound quality considerably.
I'm planning on using the OPA2228 because it's recommended for input impedance of 10k to 100k and it's unity gain stable and for it's reported tube like sound, which many of my friends really covet but are unable to obtain due to costs.
I'm planning on using the OPA2228 because it's recommended for input impedance of 10k to 100k and it's unity gain stable and for it's reported tube like sound, which many of my friends really covet but are unable to obtain due to costs.
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decoupling dc capacitors
if I need to use decoupling capacitors, do the ones on the ground matter? On the danzz board there is a tiny polyester cap for the ground and then large pp caps for the signal.
Sorry if this has been covered, I did a few searches on the site and haven't found anything that really definitively answers this.
if I need to use decoupling capacitors, do the ones on the ground matter? On the danzz board there is a tiny polyester cap for the ground and then large pp caps for the signal.
Sorry if this has been covered, I did a few searches on the site and haven't found anything that really definitively answers this.
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Breeze 2.0 Integrated.
Just bought one of these, £22 and tracked 24hr delivery.
1st impressions were favourable although the volume control had virtually no range.
After comparing to my other amps, various 41hz.com kits and tda7927's of the"lunchies" type the initial enthusiasm waned somewhat as the breeze was somewhat shut-in by comparison and lacked air.
Having removed the board from the case and examining the components used it's obvious how they do it for the money, fake Wima's and Sanyo electrolytic with even cheaper no name electrolytic in the signal path. Even the values were different to both the board markings and the published schematics! 😱
The input caps should be 1.0uf (bypassed with 0.1uf Wima on the + inputs) but are 2.2uf.
Worse still the gain setting resistors are 100k and 47k, explains the useless range on the volume control.
Given the delivered price and the fact that it works out of the box it's hard to be too critical I suppose but as I found out for a few £'s more the performance could have been brilliant.
Using what I had lying around from other builds I swapped out the two Wima and electrolytic on the + inputs for two JB JFX polyprops, changed the 47k resister for a 22k and and changed the electrolytic on pins 6 & 7 for a Elna Cerafine.
Screwed it all back together and now have a usable volume control and much improved sound.
Cleaner, more detailed and less hash. The JB polyprops will take a good few hours to fully burn in but after just a couple of hours on them I'm listening to an amp in a different league to the original. 😀D
Next step is to try and persuade those JB caps into the other two positions and swap out the bootstrap caps for X7R ceramics with Panasonic FM's replacing the Sanyo's.
Just bought one of these, £22 and tracked 24hr delivery.
1st impressions were favourable although the volume control had virtually no range.
After comparing to my other amps, various 41hz.com kits and tda7927's of the"lunchies" type the initial enthusiasm waned somewhat as the breeze was somewhat shut-in by comparison and lacked air.
Having removed the board from the case and examining the components used it's obvious how they do it for the money, fake Wima's and Sanyo electrolytic with even cheaper no name electrolytic in the signal path. Even the values were different to both the board markings and the published schematics! 😱
The input caps should be 1.0uf (bypassed with 0.1uf Wima on the + inputs) but are 2.2uf.
Worse still the gain setting resistors are 100k and 47k, explains the useless range on the volume control.
Given the delivered price and the fact that it works out of the box it's hard to be too critical I suppose but as I found out for a few £'s more the performance could have been brilliant.
Using what I had lying around from other builds I swapped out the two Wima and electrolytic on the + inputs for two JB JFX polyprops, changed the 47k resister for a 22k and and changed the electrolytic on pins 6 & 7 for a Elna Cerafine.
Screwed it all back together and now have a usable volume control and much improved sound.
Cleaner, more detailed and less hash. The JB polyprops will take a good few hours to fully burn in but after just a couple of hours on them I'm listening to an amp in a different league to the original. 😀D
Next step is to try and persuade those JB caps into the other two positions and swap out the bootstrap caps for X7R ceramics with Panasonic FM's replacing the Sanyo's.
