TPA3116D2 Amp

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#8,084
Sure3116 still has c7 and c22, you can remove those two, just 1nF parts so no major change, but audible probably because between positive and negative outputs.

For 3123 Muse you probably can get ceramic smd's close to chippins for decoupling, always harder with "large" TH filmcaps, the inputcapacitors might be the little green electrolytics, the black elna rjh's aren't elna, the brown elnas might be koshin, which isn't a problem, but could be worse than koshin too.
 
#8,085
irribeo said:
Sure3116 still has c7 and c22, you can remove those two, just 1nF parts so no major change, but audible probably because between positive and negative outputs.

For 3123 Muse you probably can get ceramic smd's close to chippins for decoupling, always harder with "large" TH filmcaps, the inputcapacitors might be the little green electrolytics, the black elna rjh's aren't elna, the brown elnas might be koshin, which isn't a problem, but could be worse than koshin too.
Click to expand...


You are right. The Sure board sound better without C7&C22. I am just now listen to it with this mod 🙂. Thank you! It was planned before but I tried first different DC power caps. I like for now this combination. From all the Chinese TPA3116D2 boards I like this one first. Without the pop noise it can be a giant killer board.
 
#8,087
Hello,

I am planning to build a new amp with the YJ black/blue TPA3132,
I want to keep the possibility to adjust the R/L balance and need some advise for that!

- 1 pot for each right and left channel
Or
- 2 boards, 2 power supply..

I am planing to use at the biginning a laptop power supply, before getting good Power supply components.

Thanks in advance for your expertise.
 
#8,088
Hoops

Syl20m said:
Hello,

I am planning to build a new amp with the YJ black/blue TPA3132,
I want to keep the possibility to adjust the R/L balance and need some advise for that!

- 1 pot for each right and left channel
Or
- 2 boards, 2 power supply..

I am planing to use at the biginning a laptop power supply, before getting good Power supply components.

Thanks in advance for your expertise.
Click to expand...


Sorry .... Board will be TPA3116D2
 
#8,089
Poultrygeist said:
No pops with the green board or the dual chip board.
Click to expand...

Which dual amp is that exactly?

I have this one: 2 100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V 24V for Arduino | eBay

- and it has the most horrible turn-on pop 🙁
I mean, if you turn it on using its own integrated pot (which has on/off switch combo), it's not that bad - but I don't use it that way: I turn it off and on using the switch at the power supply - and the turn-on pop isn't a pop, but an explosion 🙁

In short, I'm not very happy...

So, about yours: does it have on/off switch integrated with the pot, and does it have a turn-on pop when you leave it on, and just apply power externally (e.g. plug in power cord, or switch it on using the power switch on the external power supply - or switch on the power cord)?

TIA,

Denis
 
#8,090
den_hr said:
Which dual amp is that exactly?

I have this one: 2 100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V 24V for Arduino | eBay

- and it has the most horrible turn-on pop 🙁
I mean, if you turn it on using its own integrated pot (which has on/off switch combo), it's not that bad - but I don't use it that way: I turn it off and on using the switch at the power supply - and the turn-on pop isn't a pop, but an explosion 🙁

In short, I'm not very happy...

So, about yours: does it have on/off switch integrated with the pot, and does it have a turn-on pop when you leave it on, and just apply power externally (e.g. plug in power cord, or switch it on using the power switch on the external power supply - or switch on the power cord)?

TIA,

Denis
Click to expand...


I concur... I get the "same" turn on thump with the dual chip as the WLX board. Though using the dual chip on/off/volume pot to power it up seems to get around the problem.

J.
 
#8,091
TPA3116D2 for the tweeters

ampguts-sm.jpg
 
#8,094
I have two of the dual chip boards like the one in the link.

The pop is hardly audible whether I turn it on with it's on/off switch or with it's 13.8v power supply switch.

It is a total non issue and my speakers are 93dbs.

With my Sure and YJ boards the pop is definitely an issue.

I'd say the pop with the dual chip board is comparable to the Audiobah green board.
 
#8,095
den_hr said:
I have this one: 2 100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V 24V for Arduino | eBay

- and it has the most horrible turn-on pop 🙁
I mean, if you turn it on using its own integrated pot (which has on/off switch combo), it's not that bad - but I don't use it that way: I turn it off and on using the switch at the power supply - and the turn-on pop isn't a pop, but an explosion 🙁
Denis
Click to expand...
So you're not using the way it is designed to, but prefer to use it you're way which is the wrong one, and you complain?! I don't get it.

I have the same board, boxed together with the notebook PSU of 20V/4A/90W, no other on/off switch but the original one at the board and NO pops at power on, just faint click at power off (needless to even mention)

20731524302_2660ce690d_z.jpg
 
#8,099
Poultrygeist said:
I have two of the dual chip boards like the one in the link.

The pop is hardly audible whether I turn it on with it's on/off switch or with it's 13.8v power supply switch.

It is a total non issue and my speakers are 93dbs.

With my Sure and YJ boards the pop is definitely an issue.

I'd say the pop with the dual chip board is comparable to the Audiobah green board.
Click to expand...

What are you using as source? Is the source powered up first? Just trying to get a handle on ways to mitigate/eliminate the thump.

Mine's a raspberry pi plus DAC. Amp plus source are powered off the same remote controlled power bar. RCA connectors into the WLX, RCA through 3.5mm jack into the dual chip.

J.
 
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