A bootstrap capacitor placed further from chip than the outputfilter toroid inductor in same output, all bootstraps through vias, I will remain happy never trying the yellow boards (also sometimes available in red).
I think that board is not NEW, instead an older design (but IMO better) one. I tried to get the same board (different seller) from ebay because that's the only board I found that can adjust the bass crossover.
That board is indeed very similar to the board Breeze amplifier which also said to have "subwoofer frequency regulation"
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However, when I received the board from ebay, it ended up as a "newer" design which is very similar, if not the same, board used in the new Breeze amplifier (the 3rd picture is wrong which is their older board)
Aliexpress.com : Buy The new version 2.1 high power 50W+50W+100W digital finished amplifier DAC TPA3116D2 surpass LM1875 from Reliable dac audio suppliers on Breeze Audio | Alibaba Group
Many ebay sellers are selling that at the same price as the one I wanted to get.
Three knob from left to right:
1.Left is Stereo sound volume.
2.The middle is the subwoofer.
3.Right is the total volume adjustment.
Kinda disappointed as my sub doesn't have crossover control which is the reason I bought that board. I also couldn't get the subwoofer control working as I thought.
So, I ended up just pass the L/R full range output into my sub's high level input which is actually working quite well. (Using Mirage Omni satellite and sub which are some leftover from my home theater setup, that's where I got the idea to use them as computer speakers)
I guess this answer my doubt why the LED on the board lights up once I connect the power before I turn on the "power" switch.
It's made like that to prevent the pop sound when turn it on? So, is it consuming power when the "power/mute" is off?
Anyone have done any mod to this board to change one of the potentiometer for adjusting crossover?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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For those interested in a tru 2.1 XO, DrMord has developed an active 2.1 front end with LR filters at fixed 200Hz XO frequency (low pass on sub and high pass on stereo), a stereo-to-mono summing junction for the sub. I will be getting the add on mini PCB soon and hope to build and test it. This is something long overdue.
Your going to solder the vqfn package tpa3132 chips yourself? Brave, I will never try again, these days I even need glasses to read🙂
I have not seen it in person yet. In any case my eyes need magnifier googles to do anything. Sometimes I use the full 9x mag with LED headlight.
Hopefully the op amp XO won't be too bad.
Hopefully the op amp XO won't be too bad.
Errgh hand soldering QFNs...and then hand soldering ones with power pads too!
Is there a link or a thread to that project?
I do those xo's on perfboard with through-hole components.
Mine are not noise-free, but work in a more than satisfying level.
I always wondered why there are no properly designed LR4-pcb's where you only have to fit in the right component values for your crossover frequencies.
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Of course DSP are better than this these days.
But putting a DSP-board any multi-way system that's build would be very expensive.
I do those xo's on perfboard with through-hole components.
Mine are not noise-free, but work in a more than satisfying level.
I always wondered why there are no properly designed LR4-pcb's where you only have to fit in the right component values for your crossover frequencies.
edit:
Of course DSP are better than this these days.
But putting a DSP-board any multi-way system that's build would be very expensive.
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It's doable if you did 0402 before.
Definitely easier than soldering QFN without reflow.
Is that a render of the XO board or the amp board?
The most difficult soldering I have done is manual wire bonding to a TPA3118 flipped upside down legs up - literally a dead bug.
0402 SMT on a PCB's with a nice pad is easy by comparison.
Edit - that is XO board as I see silkscreen HP and LP. Nice.
Has anyone had a chance to compare the audiobah board vs the SMSL tpa3116 board that comes in the SA-60?
I'm currently running Macbook Pro toslink -> SMSL SD 192 pro (es9023 + wm8805 optical receiver) -> SMSL SA-60 (TPA3116) -> Pioneer BS22
I'm pretty happy with this set up... but I've got a bit of the DIY bug and I want to build a big all in one "receiver" with a linear power supply, XMOS USB module, ES9018 dac, chinese tube pre like the "maratz 7" and a class d amp.
I was originally going to look for an upgrade from the tpa3116 to something "bigger and better" like the new TPA3251D2 but it's not out yet and the 3116 still seems to be most people's favourite. Would the audio bah give any noticeable upgrade in sound vs. the SMSL board?
I'm currently running Macbook Pro toslink -> SMSL SD 192 pro (es9023 + wm8805 optical receiver) -> SMSL SA-60 (TPA3116) -> Pioneer BS22
I'm pretty happy with this set up... but I've got a bit of the DIY bug and I want to build a big all in one "receiver" with a linear power supply, XMOS USB module, ES9018 dac, chinese tube pre like the "maratz 7" and a class d amp.
I was originally going to look for an upgrade from the tpa3116 to something "bigger and better" like the new TPA3251D2 but it's not out yet and the 3116 still seems to be most people's favourite. Would the audio bah give any noticeable upgrade in sound vs. the SMSL board?
FWIW I have the Audiobah, YJ Blue/Black, Shure 3116 and 3110 but my favorite and best sounding stock board ( to my ears ) is the new dual chip 3116. It's pop is almost inaudible.
At $10.99 it's a no brainer and sounds so good I plan to spend over $100 on it's new Astron power supply.
After trying different combinations and higher power SMPS with the TPA's I've decided that the high amperage 13.8v linear regulated is my best choice.
At $10.99 it's a no brainer and sounds so good I plan to spend over $100 on it's new Astron power supply.
After trying different combinations and higher power SMPS with the TPA's I've decided that the high amperage 13.8v linear regulated is my best choice.
I have that one in my car doing subwoofer duty! Unfortunately I can't say anything about hiss or sound quality, but it is 2 ohms stable! I belive it comes with a 32db gain stock. Let me know how it sounds on your speakers fellas!
I fail to see how this is a good example of amp! 100W output from two amps consuming 650W continuous. I suppose in '90's everything was considered more is better.
High class A biased amps will do this. The performance benefit is there for some who like class A/warm amps and don't care if they have to pay a few cents more in power. It draws 100w at idle, I don't see how it draws 650 for 100w?
The Krell will drive practically anything with an iron grip and have no impedence or current restrictions. It has no caveats about weird speaker impedences or demanding crossover topology unlike a lot of digital stuff.
Power consumption is not everything. If you have the money for a Krell, you don't care if it draws more power to be able to double output current every time you halve impedence down to 1 ohm. There are some speakers out there that can have very low impedence(ribbons at high frequencies for example) which will upset many amps but not this Krell.
It also does not rely on a switch mode supply like a lot of high power digital gear that can only BRIEFLY make it's rated power until the voltage rails sag and output dies. It also doesn't drop significant current at low frequencies. It's a high current monster that has PLENTY of constant current in reserve. Some of the high power switchmode gear in prosound applications can only reproduce 'music' at high power without tripping into safe mode, often during testing with a resistive load and a demanding low frequency tone, they switch off at WELL under rated power.
If you fail to see how this is a good amp(except for efficiency, which only some people care about) then you need your eyes/ears checked. It's an audiophile benchmark product.
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Some will swear by their particular amp whether its Krell or a little TPA 3116, or some direct heated triode wonder, but in the end it's all about system synergy. I own a BEL 1001 which by most standards would be considered a great class A amp and with the right speakers it is. However I also own some Quad 63 electrostats and with these speakers my AVA Fet Valve amp stands head and shoulders over the BEL. Neither set up keeps me from loving my little TPA3116. And lets be honest there are a ton of music lovers who don't have the budget for a big class A amp but can make a great sounding system pairing their TPA3116 with the right source and speakers. System synergy is everything!
I agree that big iron amps like the Krell have some cool abilities to drive crazy loads with a "iron grip" as you put it. I have been interested in this clone of a class AB Burmester 933 by the Chinese for $200. Looks quite nice - can drive 2ohms I think. What do you think?
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Or if one wants to make own box and PS (not saving any money there) can buy amp board:
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32341394179.html
Burmester's cheap classD module looks like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well, it's easy to spot a well made product. And further confirm it so with daily usage. I can only judge from what I see and experience. Sounds like you've had a difference experience or just going on hear say.